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How do i seperate Spindle and CV Axle from one another ?

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  #11  
Old 04-27-2021, 05:09 PM
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Ram 2005 1500 4x4 5.7 slt.
Well the 5 ton puller hasn't worked so far.
Let's go through the nuts and bolts maybe I'm missing a hidden piece.
upper control arm
Outter Rod End
axle nut
lower ball joint castle nut
brake caliper bracket
rotor.

I think I'm missing something.
I'm not even getting a minute
tingle that its coming apart.

there are some bolt heads tucked up inside of the hub assembly
3 total
 
  #12  
Old 04-27-2021, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Pelicansplash
Ram 2005 1500 4x4 5.7 slt.
Well the 5 ton puller hasn't worked so far.
Let's go through the nuts and bolts maybe I'm missing a hidden piece.
upper control arm
Outter Rod End
axle nut
lower ball joint castle nut
brake caliper bracket
rotor.

I think I'm missing something.
I'm not even getting a minute
tingle that its coming apart.

there are some bolt heads tucked up inside of the hub assembly
3 total
Sounds like you're doing it right. This guy only removed the caliper bracket before tapping the axle out. Of course, it's always easy in the videos! LOL


Try soaking it with PB blaster, then slide a large thick nut over the axle threads (as a spacer), then put the regular nut back on and tighten it hard (with impact if you got one) to break the rust seal. Remove nuts and add more PB blaster. Tap the axle with the hammer a few times. Put the puller back on. Get it nice and torqued, then tap the puller center bolt head with the hammer and crank it some more. See if that does it.
 

Last edited by Dodgevity; 04-27-2021 at 05:45 PM.
  #13  
Old 04-27-2021, 05:56 PM
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Old 04-27-2021, 06:04 PM
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This is a 5 ton puller its feels maxed. Breaker bar and pry bar has some bend in it. The screw of the puller is turning .but very difficult and
very loud .. Sounds like snapping and cracking.
 
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Old 04-27-2021, 06:13 PM
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Put some tension on it, squirt some PB Blaster into the splines, then tap on the end of the screw on the puller with a hammer a bit. Put a bit more tension, more PB, more taps. It will eventually break loose.

The bolts on the backside of the knuckle hold the bearing in place. Want the axle out of the way before you pull those. (if you even need to.)
 
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Old 04-27-2021, 06:24 PM
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Okay puller didn't work. Screw bent a little so.
so let's get too basics. With one question?

Where does my transmission selector need too be in ?

Park
Reverse
Neutral
2nd
1st

4x4. If its in 4x4 hi. Would this be the issue ?
I did put it in 4x4 last week for extra safety.
Dash indicator its disengaged and wheel
Turns f r eely .all the way thru the
front diff to the t case.
 
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Old 04-27-2021, 06:28 PM
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Engine off, trans in park, t-case in some variety of 2wd. Separate the upper ball joint as well, axle needs to have someplace to go.
 
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Old 04-27-2021, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Put some tension on it, squirt some PB Blaster into the splines, then tap on the end of the screw on the puller with a hammer a bit. Put a bit more tension, more PB, more taps. It will eventually break loose.

The bolts on the backside of the knuckle hold the bearing in place. Want the axle out of the way before you pull those. (if you even need to.)
The screw started too warp and bend its the 5 ton version..
Tomarrow ill go exchange for the 10 ton puller.
And a lithium impact hammer or gun.
should have bought stocks from PB Blaster.

i don't live in the rust belt. No salted roadways.


 
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Old 04-27-2021, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Engine off, trans in park, t-case in some variety of 2wd. Separate the upper ball joint as well, axle needs to have someplace to go.
The axle needs some where to go.
So with that said if I'm in 4x4 the axle will not push in at all
will it ? I mean not even enough too crack the rust ring ?

 
  #20  
Old 04-27-2021, 09:44 PM
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Drive mode doesn't matter for that. The problem is, with everything in place, the axle can't move very far..... It *should* be able to compress some..... but, on those trucks, I have no idea how much you can get away with with everything in place.
 



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