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engine oil with antifreeze "weeding"

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Old 07-18-2023, 02:48 PM
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Default engine oil with antifreeze "weeding"

Hello to all,

I need your help.

In the photos you can see and imagine what I thought of when I saw this. The pickup was not smoking nor was there any indication that something was not as it should be. There was no oil in the antifreeze, but the antifreeze was in the oil.

I removed the intake manifold and from what you can see, I found that the gaskets are to blame for the "wedding".

There are no visible signs of any leaks on the engine when I removed the spark plugs. all 16 were functional and equally worn without any signs of abnormality. Please, if you are able, help me with advice and suggestions on what to do to be able to use my pickup truck.

Deeply grateful for the help, BOBODIV








 

Last edited by BOBODIV; 07-18-2023 at 02:52 PM.
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Old 07-18-2023, 03:59 PM
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You might get lucky, and it was 'just' the intake gaskets. That's happened before. If all the plugs look normal, reseal the intake, and give it a shot. Change the oil though.
 
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Old 07-18-2023, 05:44 PM
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Hey You,

Thank you very much,After a lot of research I came to the same conclusion, but due to my lack of experience on large engines of 5 plus liters, I was in doubt as to whether the coolant circulates through the intake manifold, but following logic I assumed that this was normal.

I intend to remove the valve covers and perform a possible inspection, so if everything is clean, change all gaskets, oil and filter, pour in coolant, clean the injectors, assemble everything and start the engine.

If everything works as it should, drive the truck about 100 miles (so that the oil cleans the engine) and then change the oil and filter once more. I will use 5-30 synthetic oil. I believe

I will be able to finish it all in the next 10 days (the weather here in VA is rainy and hot, and I work outdoors, I don't have a garage yet).

I will report back with the results.

One more thing I have to do, and that is to remove the fuel tank and change the Fuel Vapor Canister, the truck can stop when I fill the tank over 3/4 capacity.

I am the second owner and the odometer reading is 106,000 miles.



Your reply and suggestion are greatly appreciated,

BOBODIV
 
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Old 07-18-2023, 05:52 PM
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What year and engine? I ask as I thought the canister was on my tank but was on the frame in front of the tank. I’d look and be sure first.
 
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Old 07-18-2023, 06:05 PM
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Hi bdhuntr,

2004 year, SLT Dodge Ram crew cab 6ft bed, 5.7L Hemi engine.
Thank you for reply.

BOBODIV
 
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Old 07-19-2023, 07:35 AM
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Has the engine overheated recently? Did you discover antifreeze in the oil during an oil change, or some other maintenance? Did you notice if manifold bolts seemed to be torqued evenly?
 

Last edited by jrsick; 07-19-2023 at 07:45 AM.
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Old 07-19-2023, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by BOBODIV
One more thing I have to do, and that is to remove the fuel tank and change the Fuel Vapor Canister, the truck can stop when I fill the tank over 3/4 capacity.
The issue is probably with whats called the rollover valve, which sits on top of the gas tank.

This guy fixes a broken part on his....

The evap canister sits outside the fuel tank. This is a video of a 2008 1500 so your location may be slightly different.

Oh and don't run your engine with that chocolate milkshake till you fix it. That's a recipe for accelerated wear. You can toast the main bearings fast.

 
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Old 07-19-2023, 10:51 AM
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Thank you jrsick for reply,
1.- never overheated
2.- yes I discovered that over oil change
3.- all bolts on manifold are torqued evenly ( my guess when I did unbolting)

Later today evening I'll add some more photos of wiring harness, valve covers and engine head ( view from top ).
I'am on rest area somewhere on I-95 North, smoke brake at the moment and be back home this evening.
 
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Old 07-19-2023, 09:39 PM
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Hello everyone,

As I promised, here are the photos of the valve covers (there is sludge on the inside) and the rockerarms assemblies have surface rust, which I assume can be removed with brake cleaner spray or do you have some proven better way and means to do it (suggest me I will be grateful)

I wil clean the dirt with compressed air or a vacuum cleaner.

Tomorrow I will post photos of part of the electrical installation, which the first owner or one of his "street electricians" repaired. I'm a little sarcastic, (I'm an electrician) about that part of the "repaired installation", but I'll talk about it tomorrow in text and photos, and I assume, one of the causes of my problems with the check engine light.

Today the trip to DC and back on I 95 was "exciting" to the point of pain, 1/3 outbound and inbound bumper to bumper with a few crashes..., my humble opinion, the phone and rearview mirrors are the reasons...

Sincerely,
BOBODIV

Nota Bene,
for better wives some details you can zoom


driver side


driver side


passenger side


passenger side, 2.4 and 6 cylinder


passenger side cylinder 8


left side from top 1,3,5 and 7 cylinder right side from top 2,4,6 and 8 cylinder both side from top are first-second spark plug


same photo as previous top row order 7,5,3 and1 ( second- first, ..... second-first ) lower row order 8,6,4 and 2 ( second-first, ...., second first ) spark plug
l clean the dirt with compressed air or a vacuum cleaner.
 

Last edited by BOBODIV; 07-19-2023 at 09:50 PM. Reason: some corrections on text
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Old 07-20-2023, 08:15 PM
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That's not good..... The "oil" has been circulating thru the engine for a bit. Doesn't look like any in/from the cylinders though, so, probably just intake gaskets. Probably.

Trouble is, the milkshake does not lubricate well, and too many times I have seen the engine start knocking after whatever repair. Be it just intake gaskets, or even headgaskets..... You might get lucky, but, be prepared.....

The heavy rust on the one rocker shaft/arm there is rather puzzling though....... Does this truck sit most of the time?
 
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