Will it fit under the seat even if the seat has that flat cargo tray under it?

 

So I emailed JL a few days ago asking about a stealthbox for the Quad cab this was the reply I got.

"Hi Rob.
We haven’t determine if we are going to have one. We haven’t had the truck here to look at. Is such a new vehicle that is hard to come by.
--
Jose Rodriguez
Tech Support Specialist
JL Audio, Inc.
Check out our NEW HD amplifiers and NEW C5 full-range speakers. Drop
by your local JL Audio dealer and ask to listen to these new products. "

Im thinking of going with something like this, and drop in a Elemental Designs 10in with about 400wats

https://audioboxesonline.3dcartstore...CPKIT_p_9.html

Here is a pick of one installed in a truck.

https://audioboxesonline.3dcartstore...s/IMG_0246.JPG

You can buy the kit, you just put it together then paint or carpet it, or you can but a finished one.

 

Hmm.. I'm just going to wait until something comes out that doesn't take away the middle rear seat.

 

I'm in the process of looking for some subs (JLW3) and an amp (JL500). I contacted this place http://www.foxacoustics.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=23
and he said that his box sells for 185 shipped (2 10's sealed) for the Quad cab will also fit the Crew cab.

I will keep the stock stereo until the satelite radio expires.

The other option is to install a JL clean sweep (about 250) on the stock stereo that will basically allows you to get same the full range frequency (provided you use an amp for the mids and highs) as aftermarket stereo.

 

$600 is pretty steep for just one box and a 10" sub. I saw an ad from a local stereo shop selling 10" JL audio subs for 59.99 a peace. For $600.00 bucks I can replace all the factory speakers, buy a good sub, amp, and materials to make a custom enclosure. That just me, I like to do my own car audio (Former Best Buy MECP carfi installer). I am amazed how inexpensive most car audio equipment is these days. Back in the day when I worked at Best Buy our top of the line stuff was Sony or Pioneer. Now you can pick up Alpine and Kenwood products for a few bucks more than the Sony's and Pioneers. With the money left over I can probably swap out the muffler and drop in a K&N. Man I better start saving my pennies.

 

Ok, maybe everyone here can help me out. it has literally been over 10 years since i built a system with amps and subs....
that being said:
my last system had 2 12" Kenwood subs driven by a JBL GT400 amp. the amp was rated at 400 watts total, and weighed about 20 pounds and was roughly 16" x 10" x 3"
now this system POUNDED!

the reason why i bring all of this up is that i see amps everywhere that are half that size but rated at 600-1000 watts....

now even back then, there were some amps rated at 1000w that were some company you never heard of and basically sounded like crap....but these are name brand amps i see nowadays.

so my question is, what would be the equivalent of my old 400 watt amp? it is obvious to me that the times have changed and wattage is not rated the same anymore. it would seem that the 400watt amps of today would not power 12" subs the way my JBL did...not even close.

so....anyone have any input on all that?

I also see a ton of references to JL audio, are they the new kings of the street?

 

Neo117, you are not alone. That is a very popular question. Here is the rule of thumb when you are out shopping for amps and subs. Pay more attention to the RMS watts/power rating and not the max/peak watts rating. If you are like me (wife/kids/bills) and your shopping for a deal, try to buy the sub's first and then buy an amp with the closed RMS rating (to the subs) that will fit your budget. Another rule of thump I have learned over my years of experience is you can never have to much power. If you find a good name brand amp that surpasses your subs power rating have no fear, grap it. In my 20+ years of car audio experience, I have never seen a "blown" speaker. 95% of the speaker damage I have seen is due to burned vioce coils, usually caused by distortion from an under powered made in china piece of crap amp. You can't go wrong with name brand products, however I have been surprised by some lesser brands like Dual and Insignia. If you buy a lesser brand, make sure you keep the receipt and packing just in case you don't like it or have defect issues. Now to your other question about amp size, you are correct. Modern electronics have moved towards MOSFET power sources, amps have become smaller and lighter compared to the monsters from back in the day. Subs on the other hand, have become larger and larger to handle high amounts of power. For our trucks, there are several shallow mount subs that have a smaller basket and magnets. They are usually more expensive and are designed to work in smaller enclosures. I have personally never heard one yet, so I don't know about sound quality. I am going to start working on a mock up enclosure to get an idea about how much air space (cubic ft) I can squeeze out. Just by looking at the JL box 10" is probably the biggest you can go.

 

I go with a well known name brand amp and subs because their output are true RMS power. Today's amp can be smaller and produce more power because they are class D (newer components that require less current but can produce as much power) rather than class A or/and B like the older amps but they're still good. I have used Alpine, RF, PPI, Phoenix gold, JBL, Orion, JL, Kicker, and other cheaper brands but I like JL for the money. There are so many good name brands out there to choose from. I usually find good deals from a local Craig's list for amps and subs. I have a test rig in my car so I can test it before paying.

 

Nice. I've bought audio stuff of off CL but it's always been cheaper stuff. I've always been worried to shell out a few hundred dollars and not know if it's going to work when I get home and get it installed.

 

The quad cab under seat boxes fit in our crewcab's. You have to remove the covers though which is really easy. The quad cab center box won't fit in our crew cabs, it's much too small because we have more leg room than the old quad cabs.
I'm looking at putting 2 12's under my rear seat, they'll be shallow mount, prob kicker as i've heard their shallow mounts and they sound good. I'm going to power them with 1500+ watts. This is all subject to change of course once i build the box and figure out how much mounting depth and air space i have. I might build a box that covers the entire area and just put in one higher rated 12 and give it more airspace. Probably run 2 amps for that...
I'm coming from competition style systems so installing a tiny box under my seat will be something different for me, but i enjoy the leg room and don't want to lose my middle seat in the back.
When i do it i'll provide a walkthrough, much more detailed than my Indash walkthrough..