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Leveling kit confusion

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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 03:14 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by StuartV
Thanks!

And, based on that, isn't it also correct to say that replacing the struts with ones that are more than 1" longer than stock would have the same problems as putting a spacer on top of the stock strut to make it the same length (as this hypothetical replacement strut)?

A strut having a total length of 24" is going to represent the same angles as a 22" strut with a 2" spacer on top, unloaded lengths of course, the spacer will affect the dampening factor which will make a longer strut more forgiving than the shorter strut with spacer.

This debate comes from people trying to shave dollars, understandable but not worth it. A true suspension lift is the best means to this end
 
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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 03:22 PM
  #32  
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They list the rear shocks for a range of lift heights... 0-1" means it works for stock height (0") all the way up to 1" of lift - you should be fine with 1.5" of rear lift and those shocks.

You have coils in the rear, it is a 1:1 ratio... you put 1" of spacer in the rear you get 1" of lift.

The front is based on your strut which is about a 1:1.5 ratio. 1" top spacer nets 1.5" of lift (approximately).
 
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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 03:23 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by pdavis53
Not to sound stupid I thought we had Springs and Shocks not Struts? If this is the case then how is the Bilstein kit going to work? Please don't burn me I am just curious.
I am NO expert. But what I *think* the deal is is a shock is simply a strut with a spring around it, and attached to it. So, I *think* what we have is a shock, but you can replace just the strut part of it.

In motorcycling, the "strut" part in the middle of the shock is what we would call a damper.

But, I have never been super clear on car terminology and the exact difference between a "shock" and a "strut".
 
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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 03:26 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by jball
They list the rear shocks for a range of lift heights... 0-1" means it works for stock height (0") all the way up to 1" of lift
So with a 1.5" spacer on top of the rear springs, and the Bilstein rear shocks, I'm still only going to get 1.5" of lift at the rear....

Bummer.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 03:52 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by StuartV
I am NO expert. But what I *think* the deal is is a shock is simply a strut with a spring around it, and attached to it. So, I *think* what we have is a shock, but you can replace just the strut part of it.

In motorcycling, the "strut" part in the middle of the shock is what we would call a damper.

But, I have never been super clear on car terminology and the exact difference between a "shock" and a "strut".

We have struts as struts are essentially a coil-over shock with steering capabilities built in.

A shock absorber is just an internal spring with a bump stop

A coil over shock is a shock with a spring around it

A strut is basically a coil over shock but includes other suspension components. Bump stop, damper, spring, upper control and ball joint
 
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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 06:36 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by bigred3297
We have struts as struts are essentially a coil-over shock with steering capabilities built in.

A shock absorber is just an internal spring with a bump stop

A coil over shock is a shock with a spring around it

A strut is basically a coil over shock but includes other suspension components. Bump stop, damper, spring, upper control and ball joint
Okay thanks for that information.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 07:11 PM
  #37  
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Hey big red did "we" ever get a final word on a good "leveling" kit for the TRX4's??? There are just so many friggin threads on this now.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2010 | 07:46 PM
  #38  
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no doubt, comfort- you looking for a simple answer too? im looking for a leveling kit no aftermarket shocks or springs just a kit to get my trucks front level with the rear.... i live in ohio im not driving in the desert over dunes at sixty, hell my truck will probably never see mud, just the occasional curb!
 
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Old Feb 6, 2010 | 07:53 PM
  #39  
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The simple answer is, measure from the ground to the top of your wheel wells. If the back is 1" higher than the front, then get a 1" spacer for the front.

As far as front spacers go, be aware that the amount of lift you get in the front from a spacer is not the same as the size of the spacer itself. The size of the spacer gives you roughly twice as much lift. Fortunately, everybody that I've seen sells the spacers based on the amount of lift they give. So, if you need 1" of lift, buy a 1" spacer - and just don't be surpised when it arrives and it's not actually 1" tall.

You might find that nobody makes a spacer small enough for you. I'm not sure I've seen any front spacers that give as little as 1" lift. So, if you need only 1" lift, you might have to buy a 2" front spacer and a 1" back spacer, to get it level.

TopGunCustomz.com has lots of different size leveling spacers for our trucks on their site. And they give discounts to forum members, I think.

See? Simple.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2010 | 01:41 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by jball
2 different 2009's I put a 2 inch leveling kit on. Both trucks had the steering wheel oscillation after the spacer kit, and yes it was aligned. Ended up taking the spacer kits back off after about 10 miles - not worth doing it. 2006-2008 Trucks they seemed to work fine, there is something the 09's dont like about the spacer kits (2 inches and up).

If I were in your shoes, I would not buy those 2.5 inch all top spacer kits. If you use your truck at all offroad (where your front wheel would be at full droop) you'll overextend your upper ball joint and possibly split the aluminum knuckle. The 1.5 inch lift would probably be fine... afterall a TRX is 3/4" higher than a regular truck so another 3/4" above that should be fine. If you want to make your truck 3/4" taller you can just buy TRX struts for the front. The TRX strut is the same overall length as any of the other ones, it just has more preload on the coil to give it a little more lift.

I know people are going to want to argue about this and think these spacer kits are the greatest thing ever. Maybe they would be, if they came with a new arm that corrects the upper ball joint bind issue (See the $1300+ Kore kit)
Could you give more information on what kits were used and the material they were made of (billet vs rubber, steel).
 
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