Looking at getting 6K HID lights for headlights and fog lights. Just wondering what everyone thinks of them. Do they last? Has anyone had any major problems with them? Where did you guys get them and what did you pay? Thanks for any info to help me decide if I should put them in.

 

Here is my post to another HID thread on 'another forum' ... i had MAJOR problems until i followed the below procedure ... its SIMPLE and easy to fix ... its a MUST DO .. and the best part is that it bypasses the need for a RESISTOR .. which gets SO HOT that it can INSTANTLY put a blister on your finger if touched even for a split second ... ask me how i know ..


read below .. thanks


Just so you all know .. i had to do the exact same thing with my HIDs .. i could not get my hid lows to work .. i tried EVERYTHING .. and twiggy was super accommodating but nothing seemed to work .. finally he made me a harness to tap off the battery ... but before i installed the harness i started to google online ... then i found the below info ..

i went to radio shack and bought the SAME capacitors ... installed them . and badabing .. badaboom ... its been almost a week now and NO PROBLEMS .. on rare occasion when i start the truck after it has sat for a while, the left headlight flickers on and off once or twice .. but within 5 seconds the capacitor charges up and sends a full 35 watts back to the computer .. and the light comes back on and stays on ... everyone should remember, tapping into wires voids your warranty with twiggy .. so do this mod at your own risk .. the worst that can happen is if a bulb goes anytime soon, twiggy will NOT honor the warranty .. but honestly this is a a friggin SUPER easy job ..

the capacitors are '4700uf 35v' ..

they are rated for a max of 35 volts ( our rams put out anywhere from 12.5 to 14.5 volts so a 35 volt max capacitor is overkill but just fine with me ..)

this 'IS' the fix for me .. and twiggy and i tried EVERYTHING .. i mean EVERYTHING ...
the capacitors are $4.50 cents each at radio shack ..

below is the best way to install the capacitors .. this is on the actual bulb harness right before it plugs into the ballast. a simple small torch and some fine wire solder can also be purchased at radioshack or home depot. remember the arrow on the capacitor goes to the negative black wire... if you wire it wrong, the first time you turn on your lights .. POP BANG your capacitor will explode .. and you are out $4.50.



and wrapped up with electrical tape ..


The BELOW pic is how i installed mine.. i wish i had done it like the above as it's a cleaner install, but i wanted to be able to remove the capacitors easily if a bulb goes and i have to move the capacitor to a new bulb harness. i just simply had no idea if this was going to work so i figured it would easy to remove the wire taps and toss the capacitors if the fix didnt work .. well it does .. yay ..



the below is how it looks before attaching wire taps to bulb harness .. i also purchased the wire taps and heat shrink tubing at radio shack ..


i hope this holds permanently ... twiggy ordered some similar capacitors that are simple plug in and require no wire splicing .. he's sending me a couple in the mail any day now ..

for those of you who wonder .. why don't the cancelers work that come with 1st and 2nd generation ballasts ? . the answer is that they work off a circuit board that electrically plays with voltage to send back the right amount back to the computer to prevent 'blub out' warnings and to prevent HID's from flickering .. however they obviously didn't work fast enough for my ram's PCU, so my lights kept on flickering and usually going completely out ..

others may ask .. well why don't the new generation 4 ballasts that most companies sell with internal cancelers work just as well ? . the answer is that the internal cancelers are the same as the external inline plug in cancelers .. only they are inside the ballast .. and frankly ..
SOMETIMES YOU JUST HAVE TO GO BACK TO GOOD OLD FASHIONED ANOLOG CAPACITORS ...

PS .. i'm not an electrical engineer nor have i stayed at any holiday inn expresses anytime in the most recent past... this is just simply what i have found from experience .. your mileage may vary .. good luck ..

 

i never did answer your question about which i went with, how much, and any issues ...

i went with twiggy's HID's from another forum ...

i forget what i paid as he no longer sells HIDS .. he is refering customers to another party now.

as for whether you should get them .. let me put it this way ..
i have them in my FOGS ( H10 bulbs ), my lows ( H11 bulbs ) and my high beams ( 9005 bulbs ) .. thats how much i love them .. the light output is SO SO much more than factory halogens that you CAN NOT even compare stock lights to HID's ...i LOVE my truck and now i LOVE driving at night ..
PS .. if you can go with 5000k HID's .. many companies advertise that 6000's are closest to factory .. i have to disagree.. i have seen factory mercedes HID's etc and the 6000's are SLIGHTLY more blue than factory .. altho there is NOTHING wrong with 6000's as thats what i went with. the higher the number to closer to blue, and purple to get, and the less the light output ... the smaller number you get the cleaner bright white color is what you get ..
PS .. try to stay away from using relays and resistors if you can ..

 

i have the twiggy 6000k set up as well. i did not do my highs since i do 99% city driving and just flashing them is not recommended due to HID's needing time to warm up. i love them! i have NO problems since i installed them last august. here is a link to my install thread for when you do get a set.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/4th-gen...installed.html

 

Factory projector HID's require no warm up time nor do they cause inherent issues related to aftermarket HID kits.
Available on Viper, 300, T&C, Challenger, Cherokee, Charger. Check a dealer near you!

 

Thanks for some of the input guys. If I do go ahead and put in HIDs I am going to just do my fog lights and low beam head lights. Like you lancelanz I drive about 98% of the time with my low beams on. So crisp929 the setup you showed must be for wiring up the high beam headlights. I was looking at the HID extra site and thinking on getting a set from them, but I want to hear some more opinions from people first.

 

buy any generic HID kit and get 'flicker cancelers' they are essentially just a capacitor as chrisp made but in a plug and play unit. i've not had a single problem for over a year now. I have DDM digital slim balasts with their cancelers.

 

So cpelton, First, love your truck think it looks awesome. Makes me wish I would of put a 4" lift in mine instead of a leveling kit. Second, where did you get your kit from. I looked online and it seems that most kits come with the cancelers and balasts. I just want to make sure that I get the most for my money. I really don't want to deal with the wiring issues or splicing things. I just want to be able to plug and play. Also did you do anything with your fog lights?

 

In the above picture of the capacitor connections, the soldering and connection itself looks great. However, never ever tape over any electrical components. This will cause over heating and premature failure of the capacitor. I am not a car mechanic, I am a electronics technician. To correctly insulate the bare leads exiting the capacitor, a small piece of shrink wrap up to the barrel of the cap would have been sufficient. Taping over them is very bad idea. Plus it looks like crap too.

In general I try to never use electrical tape on any electronic parts or installations. This is one pet peeve I have with auto makers. They still use cheap black tape when much better materials are available.

 

I wasn't aware that the factory offered projectors for the Gen 4s.
So where exactly do I start looking?
I'm sure others here would like to know also.....