2012 Dodge Ram HEMI, Brand New, 2,000miles, Engine Knock - UPDATE!
On my 2012, when I select 4wd auto, or 4wd high, the light flashes for a bit before engaging. It engages quickly or slowly (never more than a few seconds), probably depending on how things are lining up. For example, if I'm stopped at a stop sign, and then engage it, it will blink, sometimes until I start moving. Sometimes it just blinks once or twice then engages.
Yes. I've tried this with Service Manager in the vehicle and it grinded as well.
This is what they think: In the video, when I go to engage 4H, the engagement light should continually flash, and NOT go solid. It should continually flash because since I spun the wheels 10 seconds ago, the driveline is now out of sync. They are now investigating why the light is going solid, instead of continually flashing.
I disagree with this. If no wheels are moving, I should be able to engage 4H. Doesn't matter if I spun the wheels 10 seconds ago. Ugh, this is getting frustrating.
This is what they think: In the video, when I go to engage 4H, the engagement light should continually flash, and NOT go solid. It should continually flash because since I spun the wheels 10 seconds ago, the driveline is now out of sync. They are now investigating why the light is going solid, instead of continually flashing.
I disagree with this. If no wheels are moving, I should be able to engage 4H. Doesn't matter if I spun the wheels 10 seconds ago. Ugh, this is getting frustrating.
I tried your same test. Spun in the icy gutter for a bit. Stopped. Switched to 4Lock. Waited a few seconds for it to 'engage' and the light to go solid. As I gave it a little gas the rear wheels spun very briefly and then the fronts engaged. No grinding at all. My truck might not be identical to yours... I have the part-time transfer case in a 2010.
Rob
I don't buy their assessment that it shouldn't turn solid. It might stay blinking but in most cases it should turn solid. It's not about whether the axles are actually engaged but whether the actuators have completed moving into position to allow the axles to engage.
I tried your same test. Spun in the icy gutter for a bit. Stopped. Switched to 4Lock. Waited a few seconds for it to 'engage' and the light to go solid. As I gave it a little gas the rear wheels spun very briefly and then the fronts engaged. No grinding at all. My truck might not be identical to yours... I have the part-time transfer case in a 2010.
Rob
I tried your same test. Spun in the icy gutter for a bit. Stopped. Switched to 4Lock. Waited a few seconds for it to 'engage' and the light to go solid. As I gave it a little gas the rear wheels spun very briefly and then the fronts engaged. No grinding at all. My truck might not be identical to yours... I have the part-time transfer case in a 2010.
Rob
I was talking to the Service Manage today, and I asked if he's tested it on any of his trucks, and he says "I wouldn't test what you did in your video on any of my trucks, NO WAY!". I was kinda insulted. What am i doing that's so bad? LOL.
Anyway, forget the rear wheels spinning, my truck does it now without the rear wheels spinning.
The good news is that the dealer recognizes there's a problem. But it really frustrates me because they think I'm doing something incredibly WRONG by switching to 4H AFTER my rear wheels have spun.
Last edited by mezerr; Feb 1, 2013 at 06:09 PM.
Thanks for listening to video. That is what I had assumed from beginning.
I'm so glad you think so..haha makes me feel a bit better!

Sorry if I skinda sorta hijacked your thread. Thought we were having same issue.
I don't buy their assessment that it shouldn't turn solid. It might stay blinking but in most cases it should turn solid. It's not about whether the axles are actually engaged but whether the actuators have completed moving into position to allow the axles to engage.
I tried your same test. Spun in the icy gutter for a bit. Stopped. Switched to 4Lock. Waited a few seconds for it to 'engage' and the light to go solid. As I gave it a little gas the rear wheels spun very briefly and then the fronts engaged. No grinding at all. My truck might not be identical to yours... I have the part-time transfer case in a 2010.
Rob
I tried your same test. Spun in the icy gutter for a bit. Stopped. Switched to 4Lock. Waited a few seconds for it to 'engage' and the light to go solid. As I gave it a little gas the rear wheels spun very briefly and then the fronts engaged. No grinding at all. My truck might not be identical to yours... I have the part-time transfer case in a 2010.
Rob
The rural highway I drive up to a four way stop, when leaving for work in the morning is fairly steep, I usually just crawl through slowly to eliminate the enabling ESP. However.when icy conditions occur (Like this morning in -10°) I'll usually do the same engagement you tested, and as you, like the last three and half years now with this '09, I've never had any grinding situation occur either.
I don't understand what the deslership disapproves of, other then testing other Ram trucks on their lot would probably prove themselves wrong.
No noises from mine. (i do not have 4x4 Auto Transfer Case)
My method going in an out of 4x4
(1) Truck completely stopped, engine idling
(2) Shift transmission into neutral (flat grade, foot completely off from brake pedal)
(3) Select 4H (or 4L if needed)
(4) 4x4 Light blinks, wait for solid lit light (mine blinks 2 or 3 times, then solid lit)
(5) Now lightly depress brake pedal (hold brake just enough to keep from rolling)
(6) Shift into drive and reverse a few times, should be good to go with no noises.
I know, that alot of people just throw them into 4x4 on the fly,
i totally disagree with that method due to driveline shock is never a good thing to do to your truck.
The method i described (#1 thru #6) is exactly how i`ve done it for many years and i`ve NEVER had an issue.
My method going in an out of 4x4
(1) Truck completely stopped, engine idling
(2) Shift transmission into neutral (flat grade, foot completely off from brake pedal)
(3) Select 4H (or 4L if needed)
(4) 4x4 Light blinks, wait for solid lit light (mine blinks 2 or 3 times, then solid lit)
(5) Now lightly depress brake pedal (hold brake just enough to keep from rolling)
(6) Shift into drive and reverse a few times, should be good to go with no noises.
I know, that alot of people just throw them into 4x4 on the fly,
i totally disagree with that method due to driveline shock is never a good thing to do to your truck.
The method i described (#1 thru #6) is exactly how i`ve done it for many years and i`ve NEVER had an issue.
No noises from mine. (i do not have 4x4 Auto Transfer Case)
My method going in an out of 4x4
(1) Truck completely stopped, engine idling
(2) Shift transmission into neutral (flat grade, foot completely off from brake pedal)
(3) Select 4H (or 4L if needed)
(4) 4x4 Light blinks, wait for solid lit light (mine blinks 2 or 3 times, then solid lit)
(5) Now lightly depress brake pedal (hold brake just enough to keep from rolling)
(6) Shift into drive and reverse a few times, should be good to go with no noises.
I know, that alot of people just throw them into 4x4 on the fly,
i totally disagree with that method due to driveline shock is never a good thing to do to your truck.
The method i described (#1 thru #6) is exactly how i`ve done it for many years and i`ve NEVER had an issue.
My method going in an out of 4x4
(1) Truck completely stopped, engine idling
(2) Shift transmission into neutral (flat grade, foot completely off from brake pedal)
(3) Select 4H (or 4L if needed)
(4) 4x4 Light blinks, wait for solid lit light (mine blinks 2 or 3 times, then solid lit)
(5) Now lightly depress brake pedal (hold brake just enough to keep from rolling)
(6) Shift into drive and reverse a few times, should be good to go with no noises.
I know, that alot of people just throw them into 4x4 on the fly,
i totally disagree with that method due to driveline shock is never a good thing to do to your truck.
The method i described (#1 thru #6) is exactly how i`ve done it for many years and i`ve NEVER had an issue.
Rob
I'll throw my truck in 4wd going 65mph down the highway. You can't feel or hear a thing when i turn the ****. It's silk smooth. I'm well aware of all noises and bangs in my truck and cannot feel going into or out of 4Hi at highway speeds.
manual says 55mph, but ofcourse it does. I've done it up to 70mph no issues. I've brought my truck up to 80mph in 4Hi just to see if there was any noticeable change. You cannot tell if it's in 4wd at all! My Silverado I could feel a slight difference.
manual says 55mph, but ofcourse it does. I've done it up to 70mph no issues. I've brought my truck up to 80mph in 4Hi just to see if there was any noticeable change. You cannot tell if it's in 4wd at all! My Silverado I could feel a slight difference.
** UPDATE FEB 6 **
After diagnosing the 4x4 grinding, they have decided to replace the whole front axle assembly. The work order reads "Inspect axle disconnect splines and slide. Some Sharp edges noticed on right side axle splines. Road test vehicle and engage 4WD several times. Front axle BUZZES when first attempting to engage. Happened everytime 4WD was engaged. No noise from transfer case."
I am 100% positive that the grinding noise is coming from the transfer case. I can hear it directly under the drivers seat. And if you listen to the video, it's not a buzzing noise. My theory is the noises they were hearing in the electronic ear are not the grinding noise. So, I'm not to sure if this front axle repair fixing the problem. But I'll let the experts sort that out I guess.
After diagnosing the 4x4 grinding, they have decided to replace the whole front axle assembly. The work order reads "Inspect axle disconnect splines and slide. Some Sharp edges noticed on right side axle splines. Road test vehicle and engage 4WD several times. Front axle BUZZES when first attempting to engage. Happened everytime 4WD was engaged. No noise from transfer case."
I am 100% positive that the grinding noise is coming from the transfer case. I can hear it directly under the drivers seat. And if you listen to the video, it's not a buzzing noise. My theory is the noises they were hearing in the electronic ear are not the grinding noise. So, I'm not to sure if this front axle repair fixing the problem. But I'll let the experts sort that out I guess.







