Okay, I have a 2012 Ram Tradesman with the 4.7L and have already installed bright friggin' KC 6x9's and tied them into the high beam switch. That, unfortunately, seemed to have been the easy part, lol.

I work at night and tend to like having a LOT of light. The crew cab I bought regrettably has only one interior light, not in the middle, but more so positioned right behind the front bench. Makes it great for sifting thru the under seat stowage in the back, but almost impossible to find anything up front or even in the center console as the console is shadowed by the lid/cover and everything else is also very dark due to the poor amount of light emanating from the sad excuse they call a dome light.

I have talked to the dealership's service department and was told my best bet was to tie in some low current LEDs to the wire bundle that controls the dome/courtesy light so the bright LEDs would activate and turn off with the activation of the courtesy light. The wire bundle to the multi-function lighting panel on the left side of the steering wheel, just inboard of the door, was fairly easy to locate and slightly uncomfortable to disengage, but doable. The wires I was told to tap were as follows:
HOT - Yellow w/white
GROUND - Black w/tan

Now I found the black with tan in the wire bundle right off the bat, but the only yellow I found was a WHITE wire with a YELLOW STRIPE. No primarily yellow wire in the whole bunch. So I figured the tech was probably how I am and can be a lil dyslexic and reversed the wire colors during verbal transitioning. We're human, we all fudge things from time to time, and I just clamped into that wire....

Now we get into the uh-oh part... After mounting my illumination strips and running exact wires and my last part being to tap into the trucks courtesy light power supply, I got..... ZILCH. Nada. Nothing. I now have wire near my pedals (always a bad idea...) which I have bundled and temporarily stuffed into my cup holder until I can figure out which wire is the one I was SUPPOSED to have tapped. I know it wasn't the white w/yellow because when I had the plug hooked up and the courtesy light engaged, I had 0.0 VDC on my multimeter when grounded to the frame. ANY help on this would be greatly appreciated simply because I don't wanna die from all the wire near my feet and pedals. Although it is secured... I seem to be in a constant losing battle with Murphy's Law. Lol.

 

Try this: http://mopar.snaponeasy.com/en-US/im....ashx?id=14522

Pins 11 ground, 13 hot

 

Nice find...!!!!!!! Excellent help...!!!!!!!

 

Wow, that is definitely a detailed explanation, haha, but definitely thank you! Hopefully this will help me out a great deal this weekend when I can squeeze my truck back into our garage and dismantle her. The only concerns I have are with the removal of the pillar. I know I gotta pop those two cover pieces and remove the 10mm screws but I don't wanna leave any scratch marks since it is such easily damaged plastic. Any tips on keeping it looking clean? I don't want the dealership to know I messed with it at first glance. I know the lights are a bit of a dead give away but I'd like it to appear as clean as a factory install as much as possible. And thank you again, the PDF was extremely helpful. I might send my borescope back up there just to see if I can find that harness and if it's even accessible from under the dash.

 

I'm pretty sure you don't have to remove pillar cover. The connection is under the panel at the end of the dash on the left side.

 

J,
buy a couple brand new piller plugs, they`re cheap. Best way to keep it looking perfect.... hence no digs or scratchs. Also, before you pry the factory plastic plugs out, put some painters tape around the plug area, this will keep you from leaving any trace marks around the piller plug areas while trying to remove the old plugs. I usually just stick a sheet metal screw into the old plugs and then pull the plugs out with a pair of pliers. Doing it this way you wont even damage any of the area around the plugs in the piller. But only do this method if you have new ones to replace the old ones.

You might find it easier to drill a very small hole into the old plugs to install the sheet metal screw.... the drilled hole makes it alot easier to install the screw.
Once you`ve installed the screws into the old plugs, just wooble the old plugs out, should pop right out for you really easy. A 2inch long screw works the best.
I`ve seen a few guys just run the screw gun right thru the plug and let the screwgun do the pulling of the plug, kinda threads it out so to speak.

 

Okay, so I got the plugs out slightly scathed but nothing too bad. There is only one tab that holds the plugs in and all you need to pop it is a very small flat tipped screw driver like a jewelers screw driver, pop the tab and the plug pops out with it. The 10mm bolts were easily removed, but the pillar cover itself was a tad bit of a PITA and took more than just a slight tug as there is one plastic double sided tang, and I say it was a pain because when it popped, it came back and walloped me good right across the forehead, lol. But I was able to locate the correct wires, a big thank you to Stushemi. I didn't have enough time tonight to do it, but will definitely git a jump on it tomorrow morning.

 

You're welcome bud, hope it works for you