I have an 2010 Dodge Ram 1500 Hemi 5.7
the issue starts after installing HID lamps and replacing them to digital HIds
1) First when I switched on the HID the TPMS flashes for a second then goes off
and this went ok with me for almost 8 months
2) the problem escalated the TPMS kept coming on and off and messing the tire pressure meters till it all shows -- and TPMS light went on and deosnt go off with the same time the RED security light went on continuously but the truck starts well , just no TPMS and Security light on
3) Now leaving the truck for about 2 or 3 hours drain the battery completely

I Will remove the HID completely and want to resolve the whole issue
I searched and took off the IOD fuse to save my battery Charge as it helps but I am sure the IOD controls a lot of things
The question is Can a fried or bad ( because of the HID ) Wireless control module drain the battery ?
is it the problem or is it the radio ?

 

Yes, IF the WCM has an internal issue it can wake the BUS up and draw your battery down, as can any other module. Typically the awake BUS amperage is between 1.8 and 3.0 amps depending on the system. I would be investigating which circuits you may have tapped into OR look over your installation again. Something you did (or didn't) do may be waking the BUS up. It may even be a faulty control box for your HIDs.

 

hey buddy i have the sAme problem with my 2010 dodge ram 2500 6.7 cummins

i changed the win module and two new key fobs and the problem persists

i did hVe a bad hood latch switch but no fix yet

did u ever figure out ur problem with ur truk???

any help would be appreciated

 

I would start by removing all of the HID stuff.

HID kits are notorious for emitting RF from their ballasts and harnesses. This RF can wreck havoc with electronics by interfering with their carrier frequencies. That is why the WIN module is susceptible as well as the TPMS.

Also, if the bus is awake and is indeed drawing 1.8 to 3 amps and killing the battery in 2 to 3 hours, then you have a weak battery. A good battery should be able to last longer than that. If your battery has been discharged and recharged in the manner you describe, then the battery is probably toast.

 

A quick way to see if you have RF emissions messing with your electronics, is to take some heavy duty aluminum foil and wrap it around the wiring and ballasts of the HID as much as possible. If the symptoms disappear or change, then you know that is your problem.

 

hi pedro dog
im having the same issue but i removed my HIDs and still having the same issue
ive replaced both batteries with brand new ones and still nothing

i fixed my hood latch switch
disconnected all and any extra accessory i installed

 

I'm not too familiar with the cummins version of the truck. If you are draining the batteries, the only way to find the problem is to one by one remove a fuse to isolate to the circuit that's causing the problem.

On the 1500s, the TIPM module drives the headlights so that module may be damaged.

Depending on how comfortable you are with electronics, there are ways to measure the drain and isolate. I'm a retired electrical engineer, so to me it's fairly straight forward.

You may want to go to an auto electronics shop for help.

 

ive done the amp draw test on the truck
and it gets 2.80 amps approximately.... i removed the radio fuse an the amps dropped to about .50 amps

how many amps should a radio draw when the vehicle is off???

 

The radio should not draw any current with the truck off. Even .5 amps is too much. .5 amps means that in a 24 hour period, you would loose about 12 amps from the battery, probably kill the batteries in a couple of days.

The draw that I measured on my truck (2009 2WD CC SLT hemi) when the truck is "asleep" is about 20 milliamps or so (.02 amps).

You have to be careful when measuring the draw and allow about 1 minute or so for things to shut down in order.

I hooked up an millimeter set to amps (high setting) between the battery and the hot cable with the key off and of course the hood open. Turn off everything in the truck, the radio, the blower, etc. If you have a hood light you should take the bulb out. I next, turned the key to "on" but DO NOT CRANK THE ENGINE or you'll blow the meter. The truck goes through some initial tests and the current then goes up to about 1.5 AMPS (this is my truck, yours may be more).

Next I turned the key to off and watched the Amps go down in several steps until it settled down to about 20 milliamps.

You can try the same thing and when the ampmeter settles down, try removing one fuse at a time to see if you can narrow it down.

 

thanks
i appreciate the info

ill check the amp draw again and ill get back to you