Kicker 750.1
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Captain
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Carefree, Az
RE: Kicker 750.1
ORIGINAL: rtkota5point9
I believe the stock intake goes in front of the battery tray.
I believe the stock intake goes in front of the battery tray.
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Captain
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Carefree, Az
Thread Starter
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Captain
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 646
Likes: 0
From: Carefree, Az
RE: Kicker 750.1
ORIGINAL: rtkota5point9
You're basically going to hook it up like another amplifier. Run 1 main + power wire from the main battery's (+) terminal to the new battery's (+) terminal. Make sure you fuse the cable closest to the Main battery, and also closest to the new battery. Why 2 fuses? Because if that wire gets shorted to ground somewhere in the middle, although the fuse near the main battery will keep current from flowing from the main battery to the short, there is nothing stopping the new battery from energizing the wire. You can also use a battery isolator if you'd like, but I would not recommend it in this situation because you should never be running the stereo with the vehicle not running, so you don't need it. And you ALWAYS want the amp to be able to use both batteries.
Now run another wire from the new battery's (+) terminal to the (+) on the amp. If this cable is more than a few feet long, you'll want to fuse it as well closest to the battery
Now ground the amp to the chassis, and ground the second battery to the chassis in a different area.
I know it seems like a lot of fuses, but it's necessary to prevent fires. If you aren't going to fuse all these areas, there no point to fusing at all. So do it right the first time.
You're basically going to hook it up like another amplifier. Run 1 main + power wire from the main battery's (+) terminal to the new battery's (+) terminal. Make sure you fuse the cable closest to the Main battery, and also closest to the new battery. Why 2 fuses? Because if that wire gets shorted to ground somewhere in the middle, although the fuse near the main battery will keep current from flowing from the main battery to the short, there is nothing stopping the new battery from energizing the wire. You can also use a battery isolator if you'd like, but I would not recommend it in this situation because you should never be running the stereo with the vehicle not running, so you don't need it. And you ALWAYS want the amp to be able to use both batteries.
Now run another wire from the new battery's (+) terminal to the (+) on the amp. If this cable is more than a few feet long, you'll want to fuse it as well closest to the battery
Now ground the amp to the chassis, and ground the second battery to the chassis in a different area.
I know it seems like a lot of fuses, but it's necessary to prevent fires. If you aren't going to fuse all these areas, there no point to fusing at all. So do it right the first time.
What size fuses do you reccomend?
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Captain
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Carefree, Az
RE: Kicker 750.1
Should I use the ANL fuse blocks like the one I'm going to use in the amp install kit (just for the sake of keeping them all the same)? What size fuses do you reccomend for fusing all the battery lines?
One last question about the Duralast Gold Battery..... I just want to check to make sure it will do the job correctly! Is it maintnance (sp?) free?
Thanks for all of your help! I don't know what I would do without you guys on DF!!!
One last question about the Duralast Gold Battery..... I just want to check to make sure it will do the job correctly! Is it maintnance (sp?) free?
Thanks for all of your help! I don't know what I would do without you guys on DF!!!
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RE: Kicker 750.1
Well the amps have a fuse rating that is 80A each, generally you add up the total fuse ratings on the amp(s)and add 10 to come up with a wirefuse rating. So (80x2)+10 = 170 Well You'd be hard pressed to find a 170A ANL fuse, so you'll go with a 200A which is the next step in a readily available size. It's larger than what's needed for the amp, but that's fine because it's there to protect the wire, not the amp, so as long as that rating isnt over what the wire can safely handle (1/0 is about 250A) then you are all set. Now are you running 1/0G throughout? Or are you using 4G between the 2 batteries? If you are then you won't want to go over the rating on the 2 fuse block on that wire which is about 125A.
Yes you will want to use ANL fuses, not only are they the most reliable because they bolt into place and are not a friction fit, but they are the only type that can handle the size of fuses you'll be using (100A-up)
Yes you will want to use ANL fuses, not only are they the most reliable because they bolt into place and are not a friction fit, but they are the only type that can handle the size of fuses you'll be using (100A-up)
Professional
Joined: Jun 2007
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RE: Kicker 750.1
im sorry if i didnt read through the entire post but I was going to ask are you going to upgrade your Alternator and Factory Grounds on the vehicle?? With 2 batteries and at least 2 amps you will be putting a lot of strain on your current alternator and most likely you will experience some power issues...
If I were in your shoes i would upgrade all wireing to 4 gauge between batteries and run 1/0 gauge to a fused distro block that splits to 4 gauge...
Also i would isolate all grounds from the amps to one central point so as to prevent ground Looping
If I were in your shoes i would upgrade all wireing to 4 gauge between batteries and run 1/0 gauge to a fused distro block that splits to 4 gauge...
Also i would isolate all grounds from the amps to one central point so as to prevent ground Looping
Professional
Joined: Jun 2007
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RE: Kicker 750.1
you could but then all of your wiring would have to maintain that size so as to have consistant voltage and flow. You kinda have to look at power wire as water mains... the bigger it is the more flow u can get through it, the small the less flow... Thats why there are smaller reccomended wire types for different amps, and speakers.
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From:
RE: Kicker 750.1
He's right. It IS a good idea to upgrade all the wiring to at least4G between the Alt and battery and battery grounds. then from there I would run 1/0. The wire between the first batt to the alternater only needs to be 4G becauseit canhandle the max the stock alternater can supply. So nothing larger is needed. Usually you don't even need anything larger between the 2 batteries, but I always feel it's a good idea to run largerbecause the batteries can potentiallyexhangeclose to the amplifiers runningcurrent between thetwo to sustain voltage under an extreme load. If you're going with a larger alt eventually though it may be a good idea to upgrade everything to 1/0. It may be a little unneccessary, but you may want/need it later down the road.