Kicker 750.1
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RE: Kicker 750.1
On the seat bolt subject. People say seat and seatbelt bolts are bad grounding points because those areas are harnened steel. When you temper steel, it loses some of its conductivity in the process. So those areas don't conduct as well as another point might.
But I wouldn't be too worried about it. It's standard practice in most shops and should be sufficiant.
Speaker wire: Oxygen free 14G high strand. Should be perfect for what you need. Stay away from low strand wire. (Which most aren't so don't worry) And don't use anything that has a copper wire on one side, and a tinned (Silver) wire on the other side. Reason is, one conductor will perform different than the other and this isn't necessarily good for the amplifier. It was very common years ago to see that type of wiring. They did it to distinguish the 2 wires for (+) and (-), but ddin't think about the varying charateristics of the 2 conductors. Now adays, you shouldn't come across it anyways.
But I wouldn't be too worried about it. It's standard practice in most shops and should be sufficiant.
Speaker wire: Oxygen free 14G high strand. Should be perfect for what you need. Stay away from low strand wire. (Which most aren't so don't worry) And don't use anything that has a copper wire on one side, and a tinned (Silver) wire on the other side. Reason is, one conductor will perform different than the other and this isn't necessarily good for the amplifier. It was very common years ago to see that type of wiring. They did it to distinguish the 2 wires for (+) and (-), but ddin't think about the varying charateristics of the 2 conductors. Now adays, you shouldn't come across it anyways.
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Captain
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Carefree, Az
RE: Kicker 750.1
ORIGINAL: rtkota5point9
On the seat bolt subject. People say seat and seatbelt bolts are bad grounding points because those areas are harnened steel. When you temper steel, it loses some of its conductivity in the process. So those areas don't conduct as well as another point might.
But I wouldn't be too worried about it. It's standard practice in most shops and should be sufficiant.
Speaker wire: Oxygen free 14G high strand. Should be perfect for what you need. Stay away from low strand wire. (Which most aren't so don't worry) And don't use anything that has a copper wire on one side, and a tinned (Silver) wire on the other side. Reason is, one conductor will perform different than the other and this isn't necessarily good for the amplifier. It was very common years ago to see that type of wiring. They did it to distinguish the 2 wires for (+) and (-), but ddin't think about the varying charateristics of the 2 conductors. Now adays, you shouldn't come across it anyways.
On the seat bolt subject. People say seat and seatbelt bolts are bad grounding points because those areas are harnened steel. When you temper steel, it loses some of its conductivity in the process. So those areas don't conduct as well as another point might.
But I wouldn't be too worried about it. It's standard practice in most shops and should be sufficiant.
Speaker wire: Oxygen free 14G high strand. Should be perfect for what you need. Stay away from low strand wire. (Which most aren't so don't worry) And don't use anything that has a copper wire on one side, and a tinned (Silver) wire on the other side. Reason is, one conductor will perform different than the other and this isn't necessarily good for the amplifier. It was very common years ago to see that type of wiring. They did it to distinguish the 2 wires for (+) and (-), but ddin't think about the varying charateristics of the 2 conductors. Now adays, you shouldn't come across it anyways.
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Captain
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Carefree, Az
RE: Kicker 750.1
ORIGINAL: Captain Pioneer
also if u are running more than one amp... try to ground to the same point in the vehicle so as to avoid ground looping
also if u are running more than one amp... try to ground to the same point in the vehicle so as to avoid ground looping
This may sound dumb
, but what is ground looping? Thanks,
Shane
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Captain
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 646
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From: Carefree, Az
RE: Kicker 750.1
Update!
I got the amp rack carpeted yesterday! It looks awesome!!! Yesterday I also got the subs all wired and mounted in the sub box!
So when I get back in town, all I have to do is mount the amps on the rack, then just plug all the wires in... So I am almost done!!! It wouldn't take as looooong if I was able to stay in town for an extended period of time....
I will get pics up as soon as I get it all finished up!
I got the amp rack carpeted yesterday! It looks awesome!!! Yesterday I also got the subs all wired and mounted in the sub box!
So when I get back in town, all I have to do is mount the amps on the rack, then just plug all the wires in... So I am almost done!!! It wouldn't take as looooong if I was able to stay in town for an extended period of time....
I will get pics up as soon as I get it all finished up!
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Joined: Jul 2007
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RE: Kicker 750.1
Just for the record a ground loop is where there are multiple grounds in a system and there is different resistances in the system causing the noise. And best spot for a ground, besides directly to the front battery is to drill through the floor board use a grommet and ground directly to the frame of the car.
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Captain
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Carefree, Az
RE: Kicker 750.1
Alright! So I got back in town today and I got the amps mounted and ran all the wires I could while the amps are out of the truck... Now all I have to do is put the amp rack into the truck and connect the power wire and ground wire! I still have to install the battery and all that, but I see the light at the end of the tunnel! I think it should be all done by Tuesday (But don't hold me to it!) haha!
So all in all, I don't have much work left to do at all! I am sooooo excited to get this put in my truck and just crank it up (of course, after I "break in" the subs)!
So all in all, I don't have much work left to do at all! I am sooooo excited to get this put in my truck and just crank it up (of course, after I "break in" the subs)!