Kicker 750.1
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Captain
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Carefree, Az
RE: Kicker 750.1
ORIGINAL: rtkota5point9
Yes you should match the batteries. Even if they are both cheapy batteries, it will still work better than having one good one and one cheap one.
You're running a 750.1 and no extra battery!?!? [sm=huh.gif]
Yes you should match the batteries. Even if they are both cheapy batteries, it will still work better than having one good one and one cheap one.
ORIGINAL: djeazie
Dude fill that truck up with gas drop it off at my house in Ohio and I put your stuff in! J/K Ive never done a extra bat. but I think you have to put some type of isolater in somehow wish I could help. Buuuuuuut if your in looking for a road trip my offer stands!
Dude fill that truck up with gas drop it off at my house in Ohio and I put your stuff in! J/K Ive never done a extra bat. but I think you have to put some type of isolater in somehow wish I could help. Buuuuuuut if your in looking for a road trip my offer stands!
Is a Duralast Gold battery good? What is this isolater thing you are talking about?
I definately am going to put an extra battery in now!
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RE: Kicker 750.1
It's not the size of the amp. It's the power supply.It's regulated. Get it below 10.5V and you can cook your power supply. Some 1200W + amps dont have this, but... yours does and it can damage the amp. The 2 batteries is not for current supply. It's to keep the voltage up. (Amp/Hours) It may only be a 750.1, but it's still regulated. We even had a 600.1 in here the other day. Fuse from main battery to aux battery blew, nothing to charge the second battery, amp drained it, cooked the amp. It happens all the time. Like I said in an earlier post, the larger regulated amps are a lot more sensitive, but eventhe smaller ones (With kicker it's anything over a 400.1) are suseptable.
They are supposed to have low voltage protection, blah, blah, blah, but I don't care what anyone says. It happens and I've seen it a LOT.
They are supposed to have low voltage protection, blah, blah, blah, but I don't care what anyone says. It happens and I've seen it a LOT.
Rookie
Joined: Aug 2006
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RE: Kicker 750.1
ORIGINAL: rtkota5point9
It's not the size of the amp. It's the power supply.It's regulated. Get it below 10.5V and you can cook your power supply. Some 1200W + amps dont have this, but... yours does and it can damage the amp. The 2 batteries is not for current supply. It's to keep the voltage up. (Amp/Hours) It may only be a 750.1, but it's still regulated. We even had a 600.1 in here the other day. Fuse from main battery to aux battery blew, nothing to charge the second battery, amp drained it, cooked the amp. It happens all the time. Like I said in an earlier post, the larger regulated amps are a lot more sensitive, but eventhe smaller ones (With kicker it's anything over a 400.1) are suseptable.
They are supposed to have low voltage protection, blah, blah, blah, but I don't care what anyone says. It happens and I've seen it a LOT.
It's not the size of the amp. It's the power supply.It's regulated. Get it below 10.5V and you can cook your power supply. Some 1200W + amps dont have this, but... yours does and it can damage the amp. The 2 batteries is not for current supply. It's to keep the voltage up. (Amp/Hours) It may only be a 750.1, but it's still regulated. We even had a 600.1 in here the other day. Fuse from main battery to aux battery blew, nothing to charge the second battery, amp drained it, cooked the amp. It happens all the time. Like I said in an earlier post, the larger regulated amps are a lot more sensitive, but eventhe smaller ones (With kicker it's anything over a 400.1) are suseptable.
They are supposed to have low voltage protection, blah, blah, blah, but I don't care what anyone says. It happens and I've seen it a LOT.
All Star
Joined: Nov 2006
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RE: Kicker 750.1
You don't HAVE to do it. We always do here at the shop, just for precaution. Also keep in mind that any gauge you have in the car may be slow to react. It may say 12.9, but may get "spikes" much lower. What you need to check it with is a true RMS meter with a low hold function. You'd be surprised how low it gets.
And yes it's supposed to have a low voltage protection that shuts it off if the voltage gets too low. I havn't seen any that have ever worked. lol
And yes it's supposed to have a low voltage protection that shuts it off if the voltage gets too low. I havn't seen any that have ever worked. lol
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Captain
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Carefree, Az
RE: Kicker 750.1
Sounds like I'll put the second battery in just for a precaution! I don't want any toasted amp in my truck!!
So what do I need to buy to hook up two batteries together?
So what do I need to buy to hook up two batteries together?
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RE: Kicker 750.1
You're basically going to hook it up like another amplifier. Run 1 main + power wire from the main battery's (+) terminal to the new battery's (+) terminal. Make sure youfuse the cable closest to the Main battery, and also closest to the new battery. Why 2 fuses? Because if that wire gets shorted to ground somewhere in the middle, although the fuse near the main battery will keep current from flowing from the main battery to the short, there is nothing stopping the new battery from energizing the wire. You can also use a battery isolator if you'd like, but I would notrecommend it in this situation because you should never be running the stereowith the vehicle not running, so you don't need it. And you ALWAYS want the amp to be able to use both batteries.
Now run another wire from the new battery's (+) terminal to the (+) on the amp. If this cable is more than a few feet long, you'll want to fuse it as well closest to the battery
Now ground the amp to the chassis, and ground the second battery to the chassis in a different area.
I know it seems like a lot of fuses, but it's necessary to prevent fires. If you aren't going to fuse all these areas, there no point to fusing at all. So do it right the first time.
Now run another wire from the new battery's (+) terminal to the (+) on the amp. If this cable is more than a few feet long, you'll want to fuse it as well closest to the battery
Now ground the amp to the chassis, and ground the second battery to the chassis in a different area.
I know it seems like a lot of fuses, but it's necessary to prevent fires. If you aren't going to fuse all these areas, there no point to fusing at all. So do it right the first time.
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Captain
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Carefree, Az
RE: Kicker 750.1
ORIGINAL: rtkota5point9
You're basically going to hook it up like another amplifier. Run 1 main + power wire from the main battery's (+) terminal to the new battery's (+) terminal. Make sure you fuse the cable closest to the Main battery, and also closest to the new battery. Why 2 fuses? Because if that wire gets shorted to ground somewhere in the middle, although the fuse near the main battery will keep current from flowing from the main battery to the short, there is nothing stopping the new battery from energizing the wire. You can also use a battery isolator if you'd like, but I would not recommend it in this situation because you should never be running the stereo with the vehicle not running, so you don't need it. And you ALWAYS want the amp to be able to use both batteries.
Now run another wire from the new battery's (+) terminal to the (+) on the amp. If this cable is more than a few feet long, you'll want to fuse it as well closest to the battery
Now ground the amp to the chassis, and ground the second battery to the chassis in a different area.
I know it seems like a lot of fuses, but it's necessary to prevent fires. If you aren't going to fuse all these areas, there no point to fusing at all. So do it right the first time.
You're basically going to hook it up like another amplifier. Run 1 main + power wire from the main battery's (+) terminal to the new battery's (+) terminal. Make sure you fuse the cable closest to the Main battery, and also closest to the new battery. Why 2 fuses? Because if that wire gets shorted to ground somewhere in the middle, although the fuse near the main battery will keep current from flowing from the main battery to the short, there is nothing stopping the new battery from energizing the wire. You can also use a battery isolator if you'd like, but I would not recommend it in this situation because you should never be running the stereo with the vehicle not running, so you don't need it. And you ALWAYS want the amp to be able to use both batteries.
Now run another wire from the new battery's (+) terminal to the (+) on the amp. If this cable is more than a few feet long, you'll want to fuse it as well closest to the battery
Now ground the amp to the chassis, and ground the second battery to the chassis in a different area.
I know it seems like a lot of fuses, but it's necessary to prevent fires. If you aren't going to fuse all these areas, there no point to fusing at all. So do it right the first time.
Right now I am out of town, but when I get back to the truck I will start working on putting the whole setup in!
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Captain
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Carefree, Az
RE: Kicker 750.1
Well yesterday I made an amp rack that will go right on top of the sub box.... I used the same angle of the wood to build the amp rack.... I am going to cover the the amp rack with the same carpet as used on the sub box... I will carpet it some time next week, then I will take some finished pics of it!
I will try to get some unfinished pics of it today.... if I can find the digitial but if not, then I'll use the crappy cell phone camera!!!
I know, I know.... It's a sloooooow install, but I figured I'd just take my time and have it looking great the first time!
I will try to get some unfinished pics of it today.... if I can find the digitial but if not, then I'll use the crappy cell phone camera!!!
I know, I know.... It's a sloooooow install, but I figured I'd just take my time and have it looking great the first time!
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Captain
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Carefree, Az
RE: Kicker 750.1
So I couldn't find the digital so I was forced to use the horrible cell phone camera!!!
The to big rectangular holes are just there to help the amp get some air to it's back side. The onesmaller square by the passenger side is so the middle seat belt can still be used.The four little holes are for the wires to come out and plug into the amp.... I did that because I didn't want the wires to be hangen all over the place! If you have any questions about what I did, just let me know!
It says the file is too large... So I guess I have to upload them one at a time!
The to big rectangular holes are just there to help the amp get some air to it's back side. The onesmaller square by the passenger side is so the middle seat belt can still be used.The four little holes are for the wires to come out and plug into the amp.... I did that because I didn't want the wires to be hangen all over the place! If you have any questions about what I did, just let me know!
It says the file is too large... So I guess I have to upload them one at a time!