repair manuals
#3
I don't know the cost of a FSM but you can also sign up for at www.alldatadiy.com for a reasonable price. I think it's $16.95 for a year's subscription or somewhat cheaper per year with a 3 year subscription.
#4
I second this suggestion
I don't know the cost of a FSM but you can also sign up for at www.alldatadiy.com for a reasonable price. I think it's $16.95 for a year's subscription or somewhat cheaper per year with a 3 year subscription.
Here's a sampler of info given:
Transaxle Replacement
* Service Note
* With 4 Speed Automatic
With 4 Speed Automatic
* Transaxle Disassembly
* Oil Pump Inspection
* Input Clutches Disassembly
* Input Clutches Assembly
* Transmission Reassembly
* Output Gear Bearing Adjustment
* Transfer Shaft Bearing
* Determing No. 4 Thrust Plate Thickness - Input Shaft End Play
* Differential Overhaul
* Valve Body Overhaul
#5
Step 1, open hood
Step 2, disconnect negative post on battery (1/2" wrench)
Step 3, Take out all bolts holding transmission in
Step 4, Let gravity take over
Step 5, Reverse disassemby proceedures
This is about as accurate as a Chilton manual/ Haynes manual is. Maybe just spend the money and have someone do it or get a FSM. I did a trans removal on my 1995 Stratus. It was really easy after Master Tech clued me in as to removing a certain part to gain access. After that I was a piece of cake. Less than 3 days with only 2hrs at a time to work. Now I'm waiting on new ball joints and tie rods. Seems every time I touch my car to fix one thing, I find 10 things also wrong.
Step 2, disconnect negative post on battery (1/2" wrench)
Step 3, Take out all bolts holding transmission in
Step 4, Let gravity take over
Step 5, Reverse disassemby proceedures
This is about as accurate as a Chilton manual/ Haynes manual is. Maybe just spend the money and have someone do it or get a FSM. I did a trans removal on my 1995 Stratus. It was really easy after Master Tech clued me in as to removing a certain part to gain access. After that I was a piece of cake. Less than 3 days with only 2hrs at a time to work. Now I'm waiting on new ball joints and tie rods. Seems every time I touch my car to fix one thing, I find 10 things also wrong.
Last edited by 22DODGE22; 01-11-2011 at 09:26 PM.
#6
Join Date: Apr 2007
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Don't waste your money, I have access to the information you need.
TRANSAXLE
Transaxle removal does NOT require engine removal.
Cooling to drain engine cooling system and remove coolant return extension (3.0 liter engine only)
The transaxle and torque converter must be removed as an assembly; otherwise, the torque converter drive plate, pump bushing or oil seal may be damaged. The drive plate will not support a load; therefore, none of the weight of the transaxle should be allowed to rest on the drive plate during removal.
REMOVAL
Disconnect negative battery cable.
Remove air cleaner duct. Disconnect transaxle shift linkage at manual valve lever
Shift Linkage At Manual Valve Lever
Squeeze grommet clips and remove cable at transaxle bracket
Grommet Clips
Remove Cable From Bracket
Remove 16 - way engine harness connector from dipstick tube bracket. Remove dipstick tube bracket nut at cylinder head. Remove dipstick tube.
Remove transaxle cooler lines.
Remove connector at transaxle solenoid pack.
Remove input and output speed sensor wiring connectors
Input (Turbine) Speed Sensor
Output Speed Sensor
Disconnect electrical connector at transmission range sensor.
Remove upper bellhousing upper bolts.
Remove heater tube mounting bolt.
Remove vehicle speed sensor wiring at sensor.
Remove one rear engine mount bolt from top.
Remove rear engine mount shield screw.
Install engine support fixture and support engine
Engine Support Fixture
Raise vehicle. Remove front wheels. Refer toSuspension to remove wheel hub nuts and both drive shafts.
CAUTION: The exhaust flex joint must be disconnected from the exhaust manifold anytime the engine is lowered. If the engine is lowered while the flex pipe is attached, damage will occur.
Remove bolts securing exhaust flex joint to exhaust manifold. Disconnect exhaust pipe from manifold.
Remove torque converter dust shield to gain access to torque converter bolts
Remove Torque Converter Dust Shield
Rotate engine clockwise to gain access to torque converter bolts Remove torque converter mounting bolts
Rotate Engine
Remove front engine mount insulator and bracket
Remove Front Engine Mount
Remove rear engine mount shield.
Remove rear engine mount bracket bolts and bracket.
Remove starter bolts and set starter aside. Do not allow the starter to hang from battery cable
Starter Assembly
Position transmission jack securely under transaxle
Position Transmission Jack
Remove left fender splash shield.
With transmission jack in position, remove the left transmission mount.
Lower transaxle to access the crankshaft position sensor, remove crankshaft position sensor from bell housing.
CAUTION: Remove the crankshaft position sensor from the bell housing before transmission removal or installation.
Remove lower bellhousing bolts.
Carefully lower the transaxle assembly from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
For installation of transaxle, reverse the above procedure.
Check and/or adjust gearshift cable.
Refill transaxle with MOPAR® ATF PLUS 4.
TRANSAXLE
Transaxle removal does NOT require engine removal.
Cooling to drain engine cooling system and remove coolant return extension (3.0 liter engine only)
The transaxle and torque converter must be removed as an assembly; otherwise, the torque converter drive plate, pump bushing or oil seal may be damaged. The drive plate will not support a load; therefore, none of the weight of the transaxle should be allowed to rest on the drive plate during removal.
REMOVAL
Disconnect negative battery cable.
Remove air cleaner duct. Disconnect transaxle shift linkage at manual valve lever
Shift Linkage At Manual Valve Lever
Squeeze grommet clips and remove cable at transaxle bracket
Grommet Clips
Remove Cable From Bracket
Remove 16 - way engine harness connector from dipstick tube bracket. Remove dipstick tube bracket nut at cylinder head. Remove dipstick tube.
Remove transaxle cooler lines.
Remove connector at transaxle solenoid pack.
Remove input and output speed sensor wiring connectors
Input (Turbine) Speed Sensor
Output Speed Sensor
Disconnect electrical connector at transmission range sensor.
Remove upper bellhousing upper bolts.
Remove heater tube mounting bolt.
Remove vehicle speed sensor wiring at sensor.
Remove one rear engine mount bolt from top.
Remove rear engine mount shield screw.
Install engine support fixture and support engine
Engine Support Fixture
Raise vehicle. Remove front wheels. Refer toSuspension to remove wheel hub nuts and both drive shafts.
CAUTION: The exhaust flex joint must be disconnected from the exhaust manifold anytime the engine is lowered. If the engine is lowered while the flex pipe is attached, damage will occur.
Remove bolts securing exhaust flex joint to exhaust manifold. Disconnect exhaust pipe from manifold.
Remove torque converter dust shield to gain access to torque converter bolts
Remove Torque Converter Dust Shield
Rotate engine clockwise to gain access to torque converter bolts Remove torque converter mounting bolts
Rotate Engine
Remove front engine mount insulator and bracket
Remove Front Engine Mount
Remove rear engine mount shield.
Remove rear engine mount bracket bolts and bracket.
Remove starter bolts and set starter aside. Do not allow the starter to hang from battery cable
Starter Assembly
Position transmission jack securely under transaxle
Position Transmission Jack
Remove left fender splash shield.
With transmission jack in position, remove the left transmission mount.
Lower transaxle to access the crankshaft position sensor, remove crankshaft position sensor from bell housing.
CAUTION: Remove the crankshaft position sensor from the bell housing before transmission removal or installation.
Remove lower bellhousing bolts.
Carefully lower the transaxle assembly from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
For installation of transaxle, reverse the above procedure.
Check and/or adjust gearshift cable.
Refill transaxle with MOPAR® ATF PLUS 4.
Last edited by master tech; 01-11-2011 at 11:21 PM.
#7
I don't think that is accurate enough. I don't think you need to do any thing with the exhaust because you don't lower the engine in this process. The biggest problem of these directions, is if you don't know anything about cars, you'd have no idea what is what. Is sure would be nice if there was pictures and what size wrenches are needed.
I know when I removed my Stratus trans, the most common sizes I needed was 10, 13, 15, 18mm 1.25" for the spindle nuts.
I know when I removed my Stratus trans, the most common sizes I needed was 10, 13, 15, 18mm 1.25" for the spindle nuts.
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#8
Here's a page from ALLDATA
http://tiny.cc/dfotz
It shows a picture of every single bolt, bracket, cable, connector, etc. that needs to be removed and gives step by step instructions.
It also states you do not remove the engine.
It shows a picture of every single bolt, bracket, cable, connector, etc. that needs to be removed and gives step by step instructions.
It also states you do not remove the engine.
#10