I think I would buy a $3 file and spend a few minutes relieving the original brackets for proper clearance (light force from just one finger should allow the pads to slide laterally into place). This will ensure the pad can fully release pressure (relax) when your foot is removed from the brake pedal. If your not comfortable filing brackets, I'd buy $28 aftermarket brackets/adapters sold most anywhere and verify clearance by performing the finger force sliding test. Why invest in $300 worth of bastard factory parts with no warranty?? Dodge already failed once, I'd give the aftermarket a chance.

Autozone sells pads with a lifetime unconditional warranty for wearout for just $30. Compare that to the dealer's $135 as-is pads. Two aftermarket brackets/adapters cost $56. The aftermarket pads and brackets for both sides cost $56+$30=$86 total instead of a whopping $300.

 

Your digital thermometer cost more than a $28 aftermarket bracket with proper clearances. They'd bolt-on in less time than it takes to post pics on the forum, fixing your stuck brake pad issue. Hopefully your rotors and pads aren't destroyed in the next 2 days...if they are, be aware premium Bendix rotors are $19 and pads are under $30 at rockautodotcom.

A pair of aftermarket brackets with set of lifetime warranty pads plus 2 Bendix premium rotors = $130

The dealer will charge 5x.

 

I am not a mechanic! can't do it myself!
anyone know a good mechanic to fix this kind of problems in Montreal Area?

Thanks

 

You don't need a mechanic to buy two brackets, 2 rotors, hardware kit and a set of pads off rockautodotcom for under $150.

Take these parts to any brake shop and tell them to install them.

A brake job is $80 to $100 at most brake shops and that includes cost of pads, so labor alone for this job should be about $60.

Do you need me to make you an itemized list of parts to buy from rockauto?

 

Yes a list would be quite welcome!
its a 2011 16-inch wheels ...

i was at my dealer today... they inspected rear brakes and told me all looks perfect!... i don't feel any safer in my vehicle! i know it gonna happen again!

i recently replaced rear discs and pads but i feel i should get those brackets and hardware kit... i will get front disk and pad soon so i could at the same time get rear brakes updated....

thanks for your time and knowledge!

Daniel

 

Daniel,

There was a cloud of smoke coming out of your wheel and the digital thermometer showed me something is wrong! Defects like that do not heal themselves, so the problem will exist in a latent state and obviously happen again when you're not looking. Your brakes will continue to wear out prematurely and provide sub-par performance until the intermittent brake drag and sticking issue is found and corrected by a competent mechanic.

Unfortunately you will be changing a ton of perfectly good parts unless you find root cause for that overheating condition.

Upon thinking, you will need to look up the parts on rockautos website to order them. No sense in me giving you the part #'s. Go to rockauto.com and look up your van. The part number and prices are right there:

1) Right and left side rear brake caliper mounting brackets, $28 ea. These have sliding tracks milled into them to hold the pads backing plates. The factory brackets on certain years have excessively tight tolerances, causing the pads to bind instead of freely slide.

2) Bendix rear rotors, $19 ea (if yours are destroyed)

3) set of pads, $15 and up (if yours are worn out)

4) rear hardware parts kit for both sides, (about $5), includes four rubber boots and four spring clips ( good policy to hcange and grease every brake job)

5) Caliper sliding pins (set of 4), costs about $5 (must grease before installing

6) rebuilt caliper (cost varies ~$75) This is only needed if the caliper pistons are jambed and failing to return when brake is released for some weird reason. I'm not clear if that problem plagues 2011 models, so read forum threads.

7) left and right side caliper hoses (in case it's collapsed internally and preventing fluid from flowing out of caliper when brake is released), about $15 ea. This trouble is hard to diagnose.

8) left or right emergency brake cables, $25 ea. This problem should be easily detected and identified by any mechanic. A sticking brake would have a rusted cable that would refuse to return under reset spring pressure. I seriously doubt if a 2011 van has that issue and it is not common on any '08 and up.

PS: Your brake system is the same as all 2008 thru 2011 Grand Caravans with ANY wheel size. The 2012 and up vans with 16" also have the same brakes as you. The problems plaguing rear brakes are mostly due to rear brackets with bad tolerances and sticking caliper pistons. As these vans age, the floating caliper machanisms tend to rust which leads to brake troubles in late years. This was my issue, as I have a 2008 with 90K mi. I needed the hardware kit and pins greased so the calipers could freely float to find center and therefore keep pads from dragging.

 

The new rear caliper adapter and spring clip numbers are in my post a few pages back. I had the caliper adapters changed because the slide posts and pins are contained in that item. I did not know at the time that the latest new parts were different. Anyway, the new style spring clips were also used. At this point the brakes seem to be working fine with the old caliper and piston assy reinstalled on the new parts at 44,000km. New discs and pads were also installed. I had the old discs and pads and adapters returned to me...forgoing the core price credit and on examination the old slide posts were free and lubricated and seals were functioning. Slide posts seemed a bit sloppy if anything. Old pads were un-evenly worn and one disc was badly burned and pitted on the inside the other disc seemed ok but did not mike.
The old pads moved in the spring clips with a little effort required but could not be said to be loose. No corrosion was identified.
Anyway all is well at this point and after a decent run the rear wheels and discs seem to be cool.Wether all of this is a long term solution or not remains to be seen.

 

Bought the car from Carmax @ 38k miles, now at 91K.

Just had brakes and rotors replaced for the 4TH time in 3 YEARS !

My mechanic actually wrote on my receipt " will not warranty any longer due to manufacturer design defect ".

Looks like a common problem, that they will not address.

Rick

 

Have you guys seen this TSB?

This bulletin is supplied as technical information only and is not an authorization for repair. MODELS:
2009-2011 (RT) Caravan / Town & Country
NOTE: This bulletin applies to vehicles equipped with brake sales code BRE and/or
BRG built after January, 01, 2009 and before May, 02, 2011.
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
Vibration at the front of the vehicle when braking.
DIAGNOSIS:
1. Road test the vehicle for 5 minutes and intermittently apply the brakes.
2. Were there any vibrations experienced when braking?
a. Yes>>> Proceed to the repair procedure.
b. No>>> Proceed to Step #3.
3. Remove both front tire and wheel assemblies. Refer to the service information outlined
in DealerCONNECT>TechCONNECT>Service Information tab>22 - Tires and
Wheels>Removal
4. Using a Brake Lining Thickness Gauge or Brake Pad/Shoe Gauge, measure brake
pad thickness.
5. Perform the repair procedure if the brake pad usable material measured at its thinnest
point measures 4mm (0.1575 inches) or less.
NUMBER: 05-005-12
GROUP: Brakes
DATE: September 20, 2012
PARTS REQUIRED:
Qty. Part No. Description
AR (1) CNXBX361AA Kit, Front Brake Pad
AR (1) CNM2X252AB Kit, Front Brake Rotor (Contains 2 Rotors)
REPAIR PROCEDURE:
1. Remove the front brake pads. Refer to the service information outlined in
DealerCONNECT>TechCONNECT>Service Information tab>05 - Brakes> 05 -
Brakes, Base, Brake>Hydraulic/Mechanical>PADS, Brake, Front>Removal.
2. Remove any clips retaining the brake rotor to the wheel mounting studs.
3. Slide the brake rotor off the hub and bearing.
4. Clean the hub face to remove any dirt or corrosion where the rotor mounts.
5. Perform Step #2 through Step #4 on the opposite side of the vehicle.
6. Install brake rotors p/n CNM2X252AB over the studs on the hub and bearing on both
sides of the vehicle.
NOTE: Rotor replacement is recommended when switching to this type brake pad.
Standard brake service procedures apply thereafter.
7. Install new pads p/n CNXBX361AA. Refer to the service information outlined in
DealerCONNECT>TechCONNECT>Service Information tab>05 - Brakes> 05 -
Brakes, Base, Brake>Hydraulic/Mechanical>PADS, Brake, Front>Installation.
POLICY:
Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty.
Vehicles included in this Service Bulletin applies to U.S. Market (sales code YAA), Canada
Market (sales code YAC) and Mexico Market (Sales Code YAD). See Warranty Bulletins;
U.S. D-11-52, Canada SAB-2011-29, Virgin Islands and Puerto Rico ID-11-06 for details
associated with the extended warranty.
TIME ALLOWANCE:
Labor Operation No: Description Amount
05-70-22-96 Inspect Front Brake Pads Only (B) 0.2 Hrs.
**05-70-22-97 Inspect & Install New Front Pads,
Replace Both Front Rotors (B)
0.7 Hrs.**
FAILURE CODE:
ZZ Service Action

 

Which brakes and rotors were replaced 4 times? Front twice and rear twice or what? Were the brakes worn out when you bought it? Obviously the front and rear are not wearing out at the same rate. Rotors generally last through a few sets of pads. Any mechanic changing the rotors every brake job is wasting your money. Life should be evaluated in miles, not years.