i own a 2010 3.3L with 15 000km and also get rear brakes jams... i found it early enough to
reduce dammage. Brake pads was jam in sliders... not enough clearance +
rust = jam

simply remove all the pads & grind approx. 1/16 material around sliding tabs

Also activate hydraulic brake to extend the galiper and use big pliers to
screw it back in (different from conventional galiper that you compress
back in... the hand brake need torsion system)

After adding anti seize grease... put everything back in... and wheels
are really free when i release hand brake or hydraulic brake...

did the same job in front...pads tab where just a little tight in sliders...

DODGE should simply make shure people go back for schedule maintenance
and do this job at no charge

i paid 19 000$ for this brand new van...i have plenty for my money and
still not intersted in Toyota & Honda 30 000$ van

 

36,376 miles today when I took my 2010 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT in for inspection. Noted to the dealer that the brakes were vibrating again. They looked up the repair list and found they had replaced them at 19,000 - free under warranty. Today they said they couldn't find anyplace that had rotors on stock to replace them with.

A few weeks ago I did a trip to Pittsburgh down PA 28 from New Bethlehem, PA I hit rain and heavy traffic. I was almost running over people and had to use the brakes going downhill and they were shaking bad again. Coming back this stretch of road I switched to downshifting to a lower gearing. This first happened when traveling west of Denver on I-40 going down the mountains at 65 on a trip to Las Vegas in June of 2010. I ran the van through an automatic car wash much of the first winter I had it - one with an under spray. This year it didn't get run through as much because we had a mild winter here.

I didn't take an extended warranty with Chrysler because I thought it was too expensive, now I am second guessing I screwed up.

 

Same here. 2010 Caravan. At 12,000km - squeal and hot Driver's side rim. Off to dealership - told to service brakes every 10,000km ($85), everything else "fine." At 24,000km - off and on squealing depending on the weather (rain) and then a sound that made it seem a ufo was following (bearing?) - service the calipers myself with a high temp lube (rated for 2100C.) 29,000km took to a local shop - fr/rr rotors warped, fr pads worn and cracked, rr pads uneven wear and sticky, rr calipers and bridges NG (had this same issue with my 2005 Magnum). I do,however, have a 2007 Sebring that has had no serious or nagging issues (160,000km.) Unfortunately I paid for most of this piece of crap up front, so it's gonna be a heavy loss when I get rid of it. Sad part of all this is the fact that I work for Toyota and have chosen to purchase Chrysler products.....I think I,m done since I have co-workers who have not touched their brakes for over 75,000km and the fronts wear before the rear (as they should.) And when I decide for my "toy" car it should've be a Challenger, but now import.

 

I had 2008 Grand Caravan and was always washing the brake dust off the front mags...I traded it in for a 2010 in Feb. 2010. I am always washing brake dust off the rear wheels on this one. Yesterday I replaced the brake pads again...this the 3rd set on the rear, the front are original. 44,000 kilometers(27,340 miles) I don't bother with the dealer usually for brakes...today I went to ask my dealer about rear brake problems and he acted surprised...typical. There is no seizing of calipers or friction surfaces because I service them at every winter tire change over at my trusted garage...so 2x a year they are cleaned and lubed with anti-seize compound. Still I get the pre-mature wear only on the rear pads.

 

hey im new here i have a 2010 dgc i have cleaned up the slides on the rear breaks filed down the tabs on the pads. and i still replace the left rear pads every 3000 miles . this is driving me nuts . i sent 2 emails off to dodge the first one ended with a thank you for your input from them . have not heard from them about the 2 one yet . glad to see im not the only one in the world to have this problem like the dealer told me. also the rear far is screaming like a stuck pig. ant the poj rattles more then my old ford .
all this with 38000 miles on it

 

Don't feel too bad fistfull. I'm driving a 2011 Grand Caravan and dealing with the same issues. It seems to be endemic with the vehicle, as I have approached others driving similar vehicles and I heard similar horror stories.
The last person I spoke with about it was in the Costco parking lot here in Ottawa, where the current owner of a 2011 similar to mine, was contemplating trading it for one of the units Costco advertise cost reductions for.
I guess I'll take my lumps on the one I have and trade it as well.
Disappointing, because I liked the look and interior space of the vehicle.

 

Well Fistful and others, I wish you luck but there seems to be no sure cure for these bad back brake problems. Some things work for a while on some vehicles but not on all,- all the time. As I mentioned in previous posts, I feel the ESP system is intermittently at least, at fault. Since my last post, I put a reminder sign on my steering wheel to "Turn Off ESP". I have driven all summer with less brake problems. No hot wheels like before. Of course they are still noisy and do not stop as quickly as they should.
One other point I would like to make is that all this is costing us mileage. Think of how much expensive fuel is being burned wearing out brake pads every few thousand miles??!!
I have about 55,000 miles in my 2010 and the rear pads and rotors are shot again. The front original pads will go until spring easily.
Oh and here is a tip that needs to go on another thread, The tire valve stems all rotted off too. Great junk Dodge markets not warranted.

 

Herb7472, are you saying part of the problem with the rear brakes could be actually caused by the ESP system?

Sorry WiRik I didn't receive email notice of your post. Just saw it.
Yes. even my dealer doesn't disagree. His only problem is that he has no way to prove or disprove it. The reasoning is this: The ESP computer monitors all wheel speeds. When it senses one wheel turning/spinning faster than another, it has to decide if it is normal or caused by slippery road conditions. When we go around a curve, the outer wheels spins faster than than the inner ones. With faulty ESP, the computer brakes that wheel. Since it is faulty, it could also NOT release that brake even after a curve. - Or some of the other factors mentioned could kick in, like rust and too tight pad guides.
I haven't heard of a rear brake problem on vehicles before ESP was introduced. Has anyone else??

 

I had a 1999 in with ABS on the front only but the rear brakes had sensors on the wheel bearing hubs. My rear brake shoes started wearing unevenly on the left side rear. One side of the shoe was thinner than the other across the width of the shoe. If I remember right the wheel bearing hub had a reader for the ABS on it and the hub was running at an angle and not reading true to the ABS. This was somewhere around 64,000 miles. I changed out the bearings with great difficulty, installed new shoes and drums and the gas mileage improved a little. It developed terminal cancer on the rear drivers fender and was the trade in for the 2012.

 

ok so it got into my p.o.s. dgc could not see any thing amiss . but it was smoking like a leaf fire any ideas ? pads had a small amount of heat marks but nothing real bad .