I have an '06 CG SXT 3.8L. I seem to have a leak coming from the water pump. Can see a drip from the bottom and residue all around.

My question is how hard is this to replace??? It looks like a tight spot, almost like the engine needs to drop to get to it. Also looking at a replacement pump at Autozone, something doesn't look right, does the pump itself fit into a housing??? Is it a two piece pump that splits and the replacement is only the shaft impeller and pully???


Thanks for any info anyone can supply.

 

I replaced my water pump on my 06 this summer

wasn't too hard, about 1.5 work,

the pump is 2 parts, the pully and then the pump, the pully does not come with the new pump,

I used Tizzy1 method of using a pry bar to shift the engine over just a bit to get it to drop out,

a ratcheting 10mm wrench I would recomend, I did it with a regular 10mm open wrench and the back pump bolts were a pain

also either rent or buy for 20-30 the serp belt removal tool,


after you drain the coolant, and jack the front end up and place on jack stands, and remove the tire

you then loosen the pully bolts, leave the belt on, it give you resistance to loosen them(only loosen), then loosen the belt enough to rotate the pully so you can get the remaining bolts, put the tension back on the belt then loosen the remaining bolts, after all pully bolts loosened, then remove belt, and then remove pully bolts(you won't be able to remove the pully)
then loosen and remove the pump bolts, rotate the pully so it falls in closer to the pump

place your large prybar(I used a 24" from harbor freight, http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece...-set-1654.html)
on the belt tensioner bolt,and put some pressure on it the pump/pully will fall out (if you have someone who can give you a hand it would be good, they can pull the pump out, and when you are ready to replace it they can put it in, I did it by my self and droped the pry bar once, almost hit me, and since you are laying down below it, it would be close to the face)

then put a few daps of petroleum jelly to hold the new o-ring on the new pump and install,(make sure you have pully on close to the pump) use the pry bar and reinstall

here is a link

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-c...pump-help.html

 

Cool thanks for the reply and the link. I do have the tensioner tool already, found out the hard way this summer that a breaker bar is abot a millimeter too wide to get to and back off the tensioner. BTW, got mine at harbor freight for about $15.

One other question, after draining a lot of the coolant and after you installed the pump did you have to bleed the air out of the system???? After I posted I did some searching on Google and found some videos. One of them said to bleed the air out of the system so it didn't develop an "airlock" but another said that the air would bleed out via the overflow reservoir, what did you do???

Thanks again for the info, right now I trying to decide to do it myself with cold weather(40's setting in, I've had my share of cold weather repairs) or take it to a mechanic.

 

for getting the air out, just fill it up put caps back on take it for a quick drive, then let it sit, when the engine cools it will get the bubbles out, also the reservoir will be higher when hot then when cold, I keep my reservoir in the middle when cold,
you may have to top the reservoir off after the next 2-3 trips/engine cooling cycles

also make sure you use the right coolant, Hoat,
get either dealer or from napa zerex g-05 http://www.valvoline.com/products/br.../antifreeze/42

it wasn't a hard job, I know a friend of my daughter paid 450 for a shop to do it, my cost was around 50$ with coolant and water pump

 

Cool thanks for the info!!!! Much appreciated!!!

I know about the HOAT antifreeze, when I first notice the overflow reservoir lower I did some research after looking in the owners manual and seeing the recommendation. Apparently after Chrysler and Dailmer got together they decided to go the HOAT route for antifreeze. I believe at the time it was considered the lastest and greatest. Sort of like GM went with DEX-COOL.

I just get mine at the dealer(stealer) since there isn't a NAPA near me.

Tanks again!!!

 

Try to get the Zerex from other parts stores, they may have it and is about 1/2 the price of MOPAR.

Also if you do not want to do the prybar to slide the engine over. Loosen the engine mounting bolts at the top left of the engine as you are looking at it. The bolts are long enough to lower the engine to get the pump out. This will also make it easier to get to the pump bolts.

 

I changed mine 3 wks ago. 3.8, 06 grand caravan

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0qVkfk647W8

I watched this link it helped me. I like visuals. The guy in the link lowered motor mount. I didn't lower it. I saw another video and the guy didn't lower mount. Therefore if he did it then i thought it could be done.

I removed pulley like the guy did in the link below without any problem. it took 2 minutes and i am not a mechanic. first time i changed water pump.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-iuOD62LkFE

You can do it.--Scott--just take it slow when removing bolts from pump. spray lots of lubricant on back of bolts and front. Don't push them to hard. don't want to break bolt.

 

Yeah, I wish, checked all the other parts stores and even places like WalMart, no one around here carries Zerex. If it's not Prestone/Dex Cool/Autozone/Generic brand they don't carry it.

 

Anyone know what the tube coming down from the water pump going to the lower rad hose is called. Mine is looking sort of bad, rust bubles all over it. Figured might as well change it too since I'm down there. Can't seem to find it on Autozone's website, so I thought a name would help narrow it down.

 

I believe it is the water Inlet tube

dealer only, list price is 42.25


or online mopar seller
30.42 + shipping at http://www.moparpartsamerica.com
then do a search for water pump, and click the view illustration