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Grand Caravan towing a trailer question

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Old Jan 30, 2013 | 12:26 PM
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Default Grand Caravan towing a trailer question

I plan to tow a 2000 lb GVW trailer with my 09 Grand Caravan SE 3.3. I understand that that is at the limit for weight. I will be using a weight distributing hitch and 4 wheel electric brakes on the trailer. No passengers and small amount of luggage. I will install a transmission cooler. Only travelling 800 miles and will keep it out of overdrive.
That sound OK with everyone?
Also would this van be pre-wired for an underdash electric brake control?
I am assuming not.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2013 | 01:00 PM
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That sounds good to me and you would also be correct on the brake controller.....not wired. Your dealer does offer an install kit for the 7 pin trailer harness. It is pretty nice.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2013 | 01:06 PM
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Thanks for the reply. I didn't mention the owners manual actually says 1800 as the max trailer GVW, but guidelines are meant to be stretched a tad right?
The manual doesn't mention if my weight dist hitch ups the recommended amount. I feel it should affect it some.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2013 | 08:37 PM
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Yeah, stretched. I have hauled over 6K lbs with my 02.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2013 | 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by b1lk1
Yeah, stretched. I have hauled over 6K lbs with my 02.
LOL Yes I think Chrysler is being a bit conservative at 1800
 
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Old Jan 31, 2013 | 08:20 AM
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What you SHOULD do is add some airbags to the rear suspension. I really should have indicated that I have airbags and they are a major help. I can put the 4 of us, all our camping gear, 3-4 days firewood and food in the van (rearmost seat out), then I attach the camper which is just under 3K lbs with out gear. THe tongue weight of my camper is just over 300lbs. In this configuration, I can keep the rear level and handling relatively normal. All dive is removed.

My main point is that if you know you're going to have a big load semi regularly, spend a few extra bucks on your van so it can handle it FAR easier.
 

Last edited by b1lk1; Jan 31, 2013 at 08:22 AM.
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Old Jan 31, 2013 | 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by b1lk1
What you SHOULD do is add some airbags to the rear suspension. I really should have indicated that I have airbags and they are a major help. I can put the 4 of us, all our camping gear, 3-4 days firewood and food in the van (rearmost seat out), then I attach the camper which is just under 3K lbs with out gear. THe tongue weight of my camper is just over 300lbs. In this configuration, I can keep the rear level and handling relatively normal. All dive is removed.

My main point is that if you know you're going to have a big load semi regularly, spend a few extra bucks on your van so it can handle it FAR easier.
Appreciate that info. I was thinking the same thing that the rear springs would be the weak link. I am only doing this once for a 800 mile trip but...... 1 mile or a thousand miles you want to be safe. I have a pair of universal helper coil springs that I will adapt. I have used these things on a few vehicles over the years and man, what a great help.
So you towed 3000 GVW? That is great news. I plan to tow possibly slightly over 2000 so I should be good. Did you use a weight distributing hitch?
 
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Old Jan 31, 2013 | 10:38 AM
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No, I use a regular class III setup. Manual airbags are really cheap for your van, they basically install inside the rear coil springs and add a tremendous amount of capacity, they would be your best possible solution and give you the ability to have a heavy load once in a while. I went with a more expensive setup with an onboard compressor, but I still paid under $500 after taxes for the whole kit. Airbag only kits are under $200 for your van, I even think a few are closer to $100.

You don't need such an expensive hitch for such little weight. The money you save getting a normal hitch you can use to buy airbags and the airbags come in handy when you want to pick up 1000lbs of crap from Home Depot someday and you don't want to bottom out the van.

My $.02

EDIT: I also would just keep it in drive. Only time I shift my van manually is when I come to a long steep incline. I drop it into the "3" on my van, although you have far better control over your gears than I do. I let the van do the work and don't be afraid to let it hold high RPM's on a hill climb, it is better to let the engine rev (with it's proper range of course) than lug it with too much gear. Holding it around 4500 RPM for a few minutes may sound abusive, but if you are being reasonable then the engine can get the job done better this way on long slopes uphill. As for downhill, don't downshift, especially if you have trailer brakes. You'll stop just fine.
 

Last edited by b1lk1; Jan 31, 2013 at 10:43 AM.
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Old Jan 31, 2013 | 10:57 AM
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I already have the big weight dist. setup from a half ton I used to use for this, so no expense there. Also this used 09 van came with a class 3 hitch, I realize what I have is overkill but Dodge manual saying "3.3 engine with 2 passengers = 1800 pounds of trailer GVW" had me scared.
Your information has helped a lot to calm me down.
I understand about using the proper gear and this shifter makes the control easy. Better to let the engine do the work and ease the transmission stress.
Thanks a lot the info.
 

Last edited by Daleford; Jan 31, 2013 at 10:19 PM. Reason: wrong spelling
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Old Jan 31, 2013 | 10:14 PM
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Don't forget to service your transmission after the trip. A new filter, a drain and refill of the ATF will help prolong the life of your transmission.
 
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