I've already mentioned this in a previous thread, but the day after I changed the spark plugs and plug wires on my 2008 Grand Caravan it started throwing P0339 and P1128 codes. The van stumbles and misses, and I occasionally get either a P0300 or P0306 code. It also sometimes stalls when at a complete stop or when I'm slowly pulling into a parking stall, but starts right back up afterwards. I replaced the crankshaft position sensor and the MAP sensor for good measure and cleared the codes, but the codes and symptoms kept coming back. I also tried clearing the codes, starting the engine, and using a wooden shim to jiggle the crankshaft position sensor wire in an effort to induce the code (thinking a wire might be bad) but no luck.

I finally broke down and took it into the dealership. They only pulled the P1128 code, and replaced the upstream oxygen sensor and "flashed" the PCM (was told this means they completely wiped the PCM and replaced it with the latest firmware version). It drove fine at 70mph on the freeway but less than 20 miles later I got a CEL with P1128 code, and still get hesitation. I drove the car for a few minutes with the code reader plugged in. When I first started out it only threw P1128, a few minutes later it threw P0339, and a few minutes later it threw P0300. After about 2 hours at my destination, on my return trip it only threw P1128 and P0339, and still only throws those two codes.

I plan to bring the car back to the dealership first thing Monday morning, but does anyone here have any ideas as to what my problem might be? I don't plan to reset any codes before I bring it back.

 

Check out this thread - sounds similar to yours:

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-c...ight-help.html

 

I had actually seen that thread and posted there before starting a new thread.

I took the van back into the dealership and they diagnosed the problem as a shorting wire in the crankshaft position sensor circuit, and that they would have to replace the entire main engine harness. I asked if they could replace just the crankshaft position sensor wires and was told it could be done but the increase in labor cost for unwrapping the harness to get at those 3 wires and rewrapping it after would more than offset the savings in parts. I called up an independent mechanic and he told me the same thing about the increased labor costs being more than the savings in parts. The independent mechanic also said that he would have to independently diagnose the problem, which would effectively put me back at square 1, when I was already a couple hundred bucks in at the dealership and had a diagnosis.

The dealership also told me they plugged in my symptoms to a database in the nationwide (U.S.) Chrysler dealership network and found that this problem has come up a number of times in RT vehicles, and that replacing the main engine harness has fixed the problem. I sure hope it does the trick for me. I don't think I've ever dropped this much money for car repair at one time. I taught myself how to work on cars so I wouldn't have to spend so much money on car repairs/maintenance, but I draw the line at wiring and PCMs/ECUs, at least on a car where most operator action goes through the PCM.

 

I did a data base search on chrysler and here is what I got.

12497476
Vehicle Issue Customer arrived with a cel codes p0339 p1129 and p1128, and stated that the vehicle was dying out at stops.I replaced the crank sensor, test drove 2 trips and approx 10 miles and had no issues. Cust came back next day with cel and only p0339. The cust stated that the concern is now only with cold starts, and has an extended crank. I have gone completely throught the diagnostics for this code, and have found nothing wrong. Any assistance would be appreciated.
Year 2008|2009|2010
Model RT
Technician Recommendation ordered crank sensor harness, and overlayed directly to the pcm. Cust concern was fixed

 

Thanks for the response master tech. I don't have all of the symptoms there in that I don't have any starting issues. It will occasionally die but when it does it starts right back up with no extended crank.

It sounds like the technician in that bulletin ran new wires from the CKP sensor to the PCM parallel to the main harness (maybe zip tied or taped it to the outside of the main harness) and left the OE wires wrapped up in the harness as dead weight. My dealership didn't even offer to do that. My question is how are those wires connected at the PCM end? It looks like a number of wires from different sensors come out of the main harness and into one giant connector. In order to do the repair you mentioned, would one have to isolate the three crankshaft position sensor wires on the PCM end, cut them off several inches from the connector, then solder the new wires to those cut wires?

I have previously asked this dealership's parts department if it's possible to order just the wire connector for the CKP sensor and they said no. I checked aftermarket as the parts department suggested (Rock Auto, AutoZone, Google) and didn't find anything. I may have to bite the bullet on this one and pay for main harness replacement as I've already been driving under these conditions for over 2 weeks, we have an out-of-town trip planned for this weekend, and complete main harness replacement appears to be the fastest, most complete fix.

 

An wire overlay is just that. The wires are cut at the connector at both ends and route the wires above the harness. It may or may not work, but it gives you and everyone something to think about.

 

I picked up my car yesterday after getting the main harness replaced. I was told that the tech drove the car at least 20 miles and the CEL never came back. I drove it at least another 10 miles and also never got the CEL back, but quickly noticed in 90 degree F weather that the A/C system was not blowing cold when I swear it was before I brought it in. I immediately drove it back to the dealer but by that time the techs had all gone home for the day. The service manager offered to loan me a Caliber for the day at no charge (this dealership typically charges for loaners) so I could leave the van there for the techs to look at first thing the next morning (today). My wife agreed as she's 8 months pregnant and in 90 degree F weather she decided she would rather drive the kids in a compact car with working A/C than our van with non-working A/C. Turns out that the harness came with a miswired connector at the A/C pressure switch. The dealership rewired the connector and the A/C works fine now.

I just wanted to point out that although the dealership misdiagnosed my problem in the first place, the service manager went out of his way to ensure that everything was right by me, especially with two comebacks.

 

Thank you for the update. Do you know if your wife is having a girl or a boy? I am also glad to see that the service manager is working with you folks. Also post when the baby is born and if you have any pictures, do post them. Congrats Leonard

 

Just wanted to come back and say that I've driven the car around town for the last week or so and took a 500-mile round trip last weekend and this issue has not returned. I'll be sure to post when the baby comes. I already have the obligatory baby sticker to add to our existing family stickers on the window (our family has a Disney theme).

 

Hello, me again. So 10 months after my debacle above I got the P1128 code again, this time by itself with no misfire or P0339 code. I cleared the code and it came back a week later. Dealership diagnosed it as a bad MAP sensor based on the freeze frame data which showed the MAP reading 14psi at 98% engine load. From the time the MIL was first lit to the time I brought it into the dealership the weather changed from the 80s Fahrenheit to mid-50s and the dealership noted that there were multiple trips since the MIL was first lit where the P1128 condition was not set.

The MIL went away for a week and a half, then came back, same code, and this time the freeze frame data showed MAP reading 13.6psi at 90.6% engine load, very similar to what the dealership read that prompted them to replace it. Could the MAP sensor have failed that quickly?

A couple of things I should note: The problem seems to crop up only when I've been driving for a while in hot weather (above 80 deg Fahrenheit) with the A/C on. Also I have a Spectre washable air filter, which I've been told can be bad for MAP sensors if over-oiled, but I haven't re-oiled it in months and I'm pretty sure it's actually overdue for washing and oiling. I keep an old disposable air filter around for when I need to wash and oil the Spectre, maybe I'll put that in and see what happens.

I've reset the code in the hope it will just go away (not likely) but if/when it comes back I'll post the entire freeze frame data.