Hello everyone,

I just bought an 07 GC SXT. It has 77k and is very clean inside and out. Underside is very clean. The 3.8 Engine sounds great. Drives straight and brakes well.

Bought from a local dealer, who changed the engine oil and transmission fluid, so I couldn't use either as clues to how the vehicle was maintained... I don't have a maintenance log although I know a little about the vehicle history.

What would you guys suggest I check or perform maintenance on? Are there some preventative things I could do, such as spark plugs, belt/tensioners, PCV valve, etc? The engine sounds tight but I can detect a very faint occasional squealing, which sounds like a pulley bearing. Perhaps a stethescope or removing the serpentine belt would yield clues...

Also own an 02 Chevy S-10 and was not aware of the many common issues (such as crappy valve gaskets, coolant issues, etc) beforehand and sure enough, it has had some of the same major issues as others have had. Would like to be on top of any potential issues with this van.

A few of the common threads I see regarding these vans are in regards to brakes and oil consumption but would welcome any additional input.

I think it's a very nice van with a lot of nice features and would like to see it hit at least 150k. I know these engines are an older and simpler design but I like the idea of not having to change a timing belt every 60k and want to believe 150k is nothing for this pushrod engine. I see a lot of used GCs with 135k and up on the clock.

Thanks

 

The motors have been good, The transmission was getting better around 2000. So the 2001 up to 2007 had little problems.

 

While changing the air filter and addressing battery terminal corrosion issues yesterday, I remembered the dealer saying "they go through everything in the shop." The air filter was dirty and one of the battery terminal clamps was so corroded by acid that it broke when I tried to clean it.

The engine oil was changed for sure but now I have to wonder if anything other than that was taken care of. Transmission oil doesn't look or smell bad but I have this nagging that I should put known engine oil and transmission oil in the van so that I *know* it's been done.

77k miles. Do you guys suggest I drain and refill the transmission with a certain brand of ATF-4? Is the filter a straightforward job also?

Oil is subjective but would like to know what you guys run. Can't detect burning or dripping but I don't know if the engine oil is conventional or synthetic and I don't know the weight, either.

No cabin air filter to change, either.

Where is the best source for spark plugs (OEM I assume)?

 

"they go through everything in the shop." Brings back bad memories.

Some years ago I saw a 6 year old Camry sitting on a GM dealers lot I was interested in buying for my daughter (she was in love with it) to use at college. Walked out to it with a salesman who said it went through a 121 point inspection before they put it on the lot. He ate his words not a minute later when I pointed out exposed steel cord on a tire starring us in the face. As I said, the daughter loved it so without saying a word I proceeded to spend the next hour doing my own inspection where it sat including jacking it up, pulling two wheels, inspecting brakes, suspension etc. Management came out to put a stop to it but the salesman kept them at bay while I proceeded. Besides the tire I found the differential very low on fluid. After they replaced all 4 tires as a compensating gesture and topped off the differential, I bought the car and over the years it turned out to be a good car. The moral? Don't believe anything a dealer says concerning inspections. The only thing they inspect is the bottom of a coffee cup several times a day.

Yup, I would change all the fluids. Any brand of ATF+4 will work fine. Companies are licensed by Chrysler to make their own ATF+4 fluids. If they don't meet specs they lose the license. http://www.centerforqa.com/index.php...d=33&Itemid=53

Engine oil? You'll get 50 different answers from a 100 queries. Synthetic is best in the long run but regular dyno oil will do the job nearly as well. The advantage of synthetic is you can extend the change intervals out to 7.5K or 10K without worries because it doesn't break down under prolonged high heat conditions. I wouldn't go past 5k miles with dyno oil.

Common issues? You bought the last model year 4th generation van so many of the issues earlier model years had were ironed out to one degree or another. I'm a regular on 6 Chrysler/minivan forums, not a tech, and don't own an 07 so I'm basing this on what I see on forums.
> The alternator clutch is high on the list for your engine squeak. It usually progresses to a groan which you can listen to on Youtube videos (a great info source).
> Electrical issues abound. You name it and it pops up regularly on forums. Not always but many times the IPM is in play. That's the fuse box and it's prone to corrosion problems creating all sorts of electrical issues. Power sliding doors, power windows and data bus problems effecting multiple systems are at the top of the electrical list.
> Transmissions are another area. Master Tech would know far better than I but from what I read the late model 4th gens, still much better than previous years, still have their problems. Many are software issues but there's a nagging number of mechanical failures too.

Before you start doubting your purchase keep in mind there are thousands of very happy 07 Caravan owners experiencing few if any problems. By it's nature, a forum attracts the problems any vehicle has and no vehicle is immune.

Need an owners manual. You can download one here: http://www.dodge.com/en/owners/manuals/

 

Cougar,

That was a helpful post, thanks.

I will look around and see which ATF-4 people seem to like in these ATs.

Oil... yeah, I figured. Well if they "went through it" good enough to not change the air filter or battery terminal clamps, I'm almost obligated to flush the coolant system, change the engine oil, and transmission fluid. Probably spark plugs too.

The local dealer has Champion Platinum plugs for $15 each. I know the computer doesn't like some plugs. Will Champion Platinum OE-Type plugs from NAPA work well enough at $6 each?

I've read about the transmission problems and power door issues. I will take a look at the fuse block for corrosion.

So...
oil = any 10w30 as long as it meets specs
ATF = ATF+4 from the approved list you provided
spark plugs = Champion Platinum?
oil filter = ?? OEM probably

Where does everyone on here shop for MOPAR parts?

 

If you haven't heard of ROCKAUTO, check them out online.

By far, their prices are the best (as far as what I can find when I need something) and when they have a "wholesale closeout" on a part, get your credit card ready as the prices are phenomenal.

I also have a 5% discount code I can share with you if you decide to go with them. I recently got an '08 Grand Caravan and all the tune up parts I bought were top notch and dirty cheap.

HTH,
Tom

 

Your goal is 150K miles. As long as you maintain it, 150K is just the break in point especially for the engine. Despite what the idiots at CR/MT/C&D whom talk out of both sides of their mouth will say, a traditional pushrod engine like the 3.3L/3.8L are really best bet for long term reliability and low cost of maintenance. These engines make 200K easy when maintained properly. My parents have a 02 Caravan 3.3L with 208K miles. The only thing they have had to replace is the water pump at around 198-200K. In its life, it has used dino oil (mostly White Bottle Valvoline & Trop Artic/Motorcraft) and has used Mopar & Motorcraft oil filters (made by Purolator). If you want to use synthetic, you can just realize that if it has ANY seepages, it can make them worse. On engines like the 2.7L, synthetic is almost necessary, the 3.3L/3.8L doesn't necessarily need it especially for a mere 150K. The Mopar oil filter is a good filter design, but there are many good or better filters out there for the same price or less Wix/Napa Gold, Napa Silver, Motorcraft, Purolator Pureone, Purolator Classic, etc. If you want to have the name Mopar on there I understand, but truthfully you can't go wrong with those, just stay away from Fram, STP, AC Delco "E-series", and store brand filters because they change suppliers frequently and some are questionable, avoid filters with paper end caps basically.

Concerning the transmission, I recommend flushing it every 30K with ATF+4. If you are going to wait before changing it, quiz the place you bought it from on what they used, if they say anything other than ATF+4 (such as Dexron/Mercon), get it flushed ASAP no additive will make Dexron/Mercon adequate. In the future, I would recommend either having a Chrysler dealer, a independent whom you've quizzed thoroughly to ensure that he knows that ATF+4 is the only acceptable fluid, or DIY. I will also say that after you have this done, you will need to have the transmission retrained.

I personally prefer having a Chrysler dealer do it because the transmission need to be "retrained" after the flush, because it can run rough if it doesn't. Also, if you ever have a service done and they tell you about finding chunks in there and tells you it needs to be replaced cause it could go anytime, IGNORE THEM. This is what the Ford dealer (they started going there after their Chrysler dealer closed) told my parents at 156K there were no signs of problems (pulsing, going into limp mode, etc.), they decided to ignore them as they have AAA and it hasn't caused any problems. The only development is that it has a small leak and even if it is going out now that is 52K miles that it has been operating just fine. Chrysler automatics are very quirky transmissions but they are far more reliable than people give them credit for.

 

"Also, if you ever have a service done and they tell you about finding chunks in there and tells you it needs to be replaced cause it could go anytime, IGNORE THEM." Really! Every shop on the planet is dishonest? Come on.

Better advice is to look at the chunks. If you see any more than fuzz on the magnets it's cause for concern. Debris in the pan can leave you dead in the water in the middle of a freeway.

 

From all the used GCs I've looked at, I tend to agree. I thought about the pushrod design before buying because I was looking at competing different brands...

If NAPA Gold is ok on these 3.8 engines, I'll use one of those. I compared a NAPA Gold filter with a Hyundai filter and the NAPA Gold filter had more holes in the metal section.

Well, the fluid is red and doesn't smell bad at this point and it shifts very smooth. I will have to call the local service guys and quiz them. It does make me nervous if it has to be retrained. There is a dealer and also 2 other transmission shops in town. How do they retrain a transmission?

Thanks for that great post.

On another note, it would be wise to probably flush the cooling system as well. Do any of you have tips on doing that and what type of coolant should be used?

Big thanks.

 

I didn't say every shop, those are your words. This shop is incompetent and I have told them numerous times to quit going there. They busted a set of locking caps (not just one on my Intrepid resulting from using a compression drill. They tried to blame my normal mechanic and handed me the keys leaving me to have my normal mechanic (whom was closed that day) fix it while having to borrow their van for a work trip I was about to go on. It took them 4 times before they finally fixed a problem with the left rear brake on their Caravan and it still isn't perfect. They have a reputation for telling people that they need services such as transmission flushes way too frequently (more than once a year for retirement age people whom don't drive much). The list of small problems they have not be able to fix that my Dad and I have had to improvise is long. Their customer service is pathetic.

I have known some good mechanics and I have known bad ones as well. This had only one noteworthy piece the rest was fuzz. I know how a transmission feels when it is going out and it did not have any of the signs. They were either wrong or lying, I'm going with wrong.

To be fair, I didn't explain my point as well as I originally intended. If a shop tells you that get a second opinion particularly from anybody you know whom is mechanically inclined about the signs and behaviors which indicate it is going out. I have had one dealer whom just built a new building give me a list of theoretical problems (fuel injector problems, lifters, etc. because of the engine's sound when they started it when it sounds like every 3.5L V6 I have ever heard in my life) on my car when I first got it which my regular mechanic said were just fine (as did a number of friends whom are mechanically inclined)...5 year and 80K later my regular mechanic and friends seems to be correct.



shuriken, the Napa Gold I used on it last time I changed it seemed to work great. The oil seemed to remain lighter longer. They have a great balance of flow and filtration, have excellent construction, silicone anti-drain back valve, a similar by-pass set up as the Mopar filter, and a thick canister.

Retraining I think is done via a computer. This should cover most questions concerning the 41TE transmission. http://www.allpar.com/fix/trans.html

When you go to quiz them, just ask what fluid they used instead of asking if they used ATF+4 that way you can guarantee their answer is accurate. They probably did use the right fluid, but it never hurts to be sure.

Coolant from my understanding is supposed to be good for 5 years/100,000 miles. It probably wouldn't hurt to flush it. I do not have experience with doing that job myself. I would follow your manual on what coolant to use. I know my parents 02 has the redish coolant in it which I believe might be the Dex-Cool which GM blames their intake gasket problems on. From what I can tell, it rarely if ever has had to have coolant added and has not at this time had any intake issues (if they have ever happened on a 3.3L I have never heard of it). My previous Intrepid (3.5L V6) used the green and it DID have an intake gasket problem. I've heard the best things about the yellow coolant and that is what my current Intrepid uses. One of the other people on here would probably be a better source on this topic.