I have a 2011 Grand Cavaran. The title refers to what I think is happening. This has been happening more and more frequently. It happens most of the time when I start it now. When I turn the key, there will be a split second delay before the vehicle starts cranking. After it turns over, the clock is reset to 12:00, telling me something was reset or lost power during start up. A couple times I would turn the key to start and release it (still in the on position) and the starter would just keep cranking (engine not turning over) until I turn the key to the off position. Also, if I remember correctly, I think it may have reset once or twice while the vehicle was already running. Once the vehicle is running there doesn't seem to be any issues.

I'm starting to think the battery is weak...that maybe when the starter is cranking, it pulls voltage away from other components, causing them to shut down because they will only operate above a certain voltage. Everything on this vehicle is way more electronic than what I'm use to so this scenario is new to me. But I'm very familiar with electricity and electronics in general, so this possible diagnosis makes sense to me.

Anyone who is a genius at this stuff or has had similar issues, please let me know what you're thinking.

 

Welcome aboard. Genius? Can't claim that title. I'm doing good to tie my shoes at times.

I'll second the battery thought. Good starting point. Smooth specified power is critical on these electronic wizbang wonder wagons. Even slightly loose cable connections have proven to cause perplexing problems. Make sure they are squeaky clean and tight. If you have a DVM (ok dumb question) you should see a minimum 12.3 to 12.6 vdc across the terminals engine off. If it's not there have the battery charged and load tested. A voltage drop test on the battery cables may be in order.

If that's squared away you're headed for an electronic abyss. I'm guessing a problem with the WIN module (you have FOBIK correct?). That's what the "key" plugs into. "Key on" signals are sent several places on the van. One may not be getting from the module to it's destination quite right. Other than that there's the dreaded CAN data bus and it's key components, the TIPM, CCN, and EVIC. Just pray the battery is the problem.

 

Thanks, that is very helpful. I'll look into it more in the next couple days.

 

I am with a law firm that recently filed a class action lawsuit against Chrysler involving its 2011-2012 model year Jeep Grand Cherokee, Dodge Grand Caravan, and Dodge Durango vehicles. The lawsuit alleges that these Chrysler vehicles are equipped with a defective TIPM that causes numerous electrical problems for the vehicles and poses serious safety risks for consumers.

If you would like to learn more about our lawsuit or share your experience with us, please call (866) 981-4800, email emo@girardgibbs.com, or visit our website: http://goo.gl/dvk028

Thanks,
Ellen

 

Why just the 2011 and 2012 model years? There are plenty out there having TIPM issues on all 5th generation Chrysler Corp minivans from 2008 through 2014 to the point a year ago or so TIPMs were back ordered for months at a time.

 

I figured the responsible thing to do would be to finally get back on here and share what the issue actually was. I installed an aftermarket remote start system that connected via a T harness at the ignition. The whole issue was due to one of the connections not being fully secure. So yes, this was user error and I felt like an idiot. But anyways, problem solved.

 

Your error or not, we appreciate your honesty and the fact you posted it. We've all been there.

 

Release Date: 06/14/2011
Symptom/Vehicle Issue:
Hard Start, Long Crank Time, MIL Illumination, Misfire, Lack Of Power, Fault Codes Present : P0335,
P0339, P0300, through P0306
Discussion:
Vehicle may experience the above driveability and performance symptoms, but not during any
specific conditions. Should you have unexplained Mis-fire or fault codes that may be intermittent or
unexplained, the Crank Sensor may be at fault.
Crank sensors built prior to date code 10336, see FIG 1, are suspect. Crank sensors built with a date
code of 11043 and 11044 are also suspect. Should you have a vehicle with this complaint, inspect
the sensor build date. If it falls prior to the date code 10336 or on date code 11043 and 11044,
replace the sensor.

 

I really don't check my email enough...
Anyways, I started to suspect the remote start system was the issue so I disconnected it back in Spring 2014 and the problem went away. When it started getting cold again later that year and I really wanted that remote start working, I thought maybe there was a problem with the connection previously. Sure enough, I reconnected everything and it's been working great ever since. It's a pretty tight spot up under the dash and it pays to take your time and make sure everything is right.