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Dodge CaravanThe Dodge Caravan is the best selling mini van from Dodge. How many Dodge Caravan owners here at DodgeForum.com would agree? Discuss it now!
Long block comes with the short block and both cylinder heads. And timing chains that are already setup. and gasket package too. You would need to switch over some old parts.
The PCV tube shouldn’t be hooked into the air box - see drawing below from Dodge service info.
There’s only 1 PCV valve and tube but there are 2 tubes necessary for correct operation of the PCV system.
The PCV valve and tube route crankcase vapors to the intake manifold from the rear valve cover.
The crankcase ventilation tube (or CCV) is what hooks up to the air box and front valve cover. This is the inlet for clean, filtered air to flow through the crankcase and allow vacuum through the PCV valve to draw vapors into the manifold.
If the PCV gets clogged or flow is reduced due to sludge build up, the crankcase pressure has to go somewhere, so it will push back through the CCV and into the air box.
#1 is PCV tube. #2 is PCV valve.
Your right the PCV valve is hook to the upper intake the tube to the air box is the make up air to allow proper ventilation of the crankcase like on the old engine which had holes or a hose attached to the oil filler cap. I took my engine cover off and traced back the tube to the air box and the PVC valve which pass in proximity to one another.
Finally had time to check engine marks. With 4th cylinder to the top the marks on the evens were Tdc. The one next over to the left on the odds was tdc. But the one on the firewall was about 11:30 to the clock. So I counted chain links and noticed 12 from mark to mark. But the one on the evens had some play in chain and the one on the odd was tight as f$&k. And like I said not showing the marks where they should be. Should I Fix that plastic piece and re align the marks? What do you all think? Thanks.
Finally had time to check engine marks. With 4th cylinder to the top the marks on the evens were Tdc. The one next over to the left on the odds was tdc. But the one on the firewall was about 11:30 to the clock. So I counted chain links and noticed 12 from mark to mark. But the one on the evens had some play in chain and the one on the odd was tight as f$&k. And like I said not showing the marks where they should be. Should I Fix that plastic piece and re align the marks? What do you all think? Thanks.
I think I’m understanding your description, but a pic would help immensely.
I think I’m understanding your description, but a pic would help immensely.
Since the engine is still in the van I couldn’t get a picture of it from the front. So I drew what I am seeing. NOT TO SCALE OR EXACTLY LIKE IT LOOKS. 🤪
Since the engine is still in the van I couldn’t get a picture of it from the front. So I drew what I am seeing. NOT TO SCALE OR EXACTLY LIKE IT LOOKS. 🤪
I appreciate the skillful artistry that went into this illustration.
What you need to be looking for are the marks on the front of the phasers to be parallel to the cylinder head surface - below is the image from post #16. Note that the bank on the firewall side has scribe lines (item #5) that need to be parallel and the front bank has arrows (item #1). If these line up as illustrated, the timing is good.
Try rotating the engine counter clockwise just a few degrees to see if the slack/tension in the chains “flips” sides.
Are you able to see anything else inside the timing cover that looks broken or damaged? It’s not always the case but oftentimes the tensioner fails and the excess chain slack takes out the guides.
Originally Posted by GumbyRT
#1 & #3 are arrows #5 is scribe lines (right bank only)
Right side Left side
The one on the left is way out of line. These are the best picture I could get. Right side is sitting nice with arrows pointing at each other like it should be. Thanks again.
Yeah at the very least, you’ll be replacing the timing chains and guides. Kits are available that have all the components needed.
I’m guessing when you pulled the plugs there was no sign of mechanical damage? Any interference between the valves and pistons might also be noticeable from the top side - a bent valve that’s stuck open would be keeping the spring compressed and pulled away from the follower.
If you want to verify there’s no problems with the combustion chambers, now is the time for leak down testing. I don’t know if they’re available for rent (check with your local parts stores), but this one (or something similar) will work -
Each piston needs to be at TDC on the compression stroke for the test to be accurate. Technically the engine should be warm, but if everything is sealed as it should be, leakage should still be in the normal range.
I have a pressure tester that is older and no relief valve on it. I will use that. I’ll put it all back together warm up the engine. Then I’ll take the spark plugs out and check each plug separate. 😂. I’ll just turn it over by hand and when the pressure is there I’ll hold it won’t turn it anymore and see if it lasts with no leaky. Thanks again for the feedback!!
