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2007 RT build

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Old Sep 19, 2023 | 08:47 AM
  #31  
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Oh if it's hitting the outer lip then yeah you need some height lol. This is where it sat with stock SRT springs:



 
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Old Oct 28, 2023 | 11:23 AM
  #32  
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Im still gathering parts for this, while working on Isaacs 67. Its a big handful of things to work through if Im being honest. I want to ask if anyone out there can give a little advice on the cam selection. Here is what Im looking at.

At AMS racing, they sell;
NSR "Lopey" cam, MDS delete kit, with new Mopar non-MDS lifters, with no timing set, or oil pump. (I dont need a new timing set, or oil pump, the engine is brand new)
Comp Cams 8720-16 5/16" hardened push rods
Brian Tooley Racing SK017, .650" max lift beehive springs.

All of this above will be about $1700, without shipping or tax. And of course, noone advertises cam specs any more. You might get a lobe separation number, or max lift here and there, but thats it. So cam specs are a mystery. I also have HPtuners, and Ill be working with a friend to tune it. I have a lot to learn, I know.
I have reached out to several companies for help, via email, and only had one company respond. Their suggestion just happened to be the only cam they had in stock, so Im not sure its the best fit for me. Im not concerned with setting records, or winning races. Its my daily driver. I just want to take it up a few notches. With the 3" exhaust, and the Torquestorm making 6 lbs of boost, I am willing to leave a few ponies on the table for a cam with some chop. In my experience, a car that looks and sounds fast usually gets left alone. To me, the order of importance is looks first, sound second, power third.

Anyone with experience on a cam swap in a 3rd gen 5.7 can comment. Ive never done this before.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2023 | 07:41 PM
  #33  
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Well, for the cam and such, looks are simply irrelevant, as you won't be able to see any of it anyway.

Sound is more a product of the exhaust, unless you are referring to the 'lope' a lumpy cam gives. But, keep in mind, that lumpy cam will greatly offend the PCM, a custom tune will be required.... and even then, if the cam is really lumpy, getting it to even idle will be a challenge, and it will likely have to idle north of 1K RPM.....
 
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Old Oct 28, 2023 | 08:36 PM
  #34  
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I have worried long and hard about this cam install. I understand the issues with a choppy or lopey cam and tuning. I have been reading up over on the HPtuners forums. I am also working with a friend who has tuned his suburban with a cam and exhaust. Im also not above paying for a tune if needed, and using the MPV from HPtuners to log and make minor changes. We will see.

Today I ordered the rest of the parts, minus the cam and its supporting parts. I ordered;
Tranzformer Gen. 1 lineloc and transmission shift kit.
Hellcat injectors (750 cc, 72 lb/hr 43.5 psi injectors)P/N 68170238AB
Kenne Bell boost-a-pump KB89069
24 x 11.75 x 4 intercooler, with 3" inlet/outlet. (rated for 1000cfm, 800 hp, 70psi max)
A generic 3" intercooler piping kit, with clamps and silcone hoses.
and Mr Gaskets fabricates valve covers in black (6FTGEFMJR)

This is almost all the parts except the cam, springs, pushrods, and MDS delete kit.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2023 | 02:50 PM
  #35  
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I finally ordered my cam. I have worried about it, and researched it long enough. Here is what I got-
Comp Cams 112-337-11 cam (Int. Dur @.050-.229, Exh, Dur. @.050-.241, Int. Adv. Dur-.287, Exh. Adv Dur-.299, Total lift .637 (with factory rockers), Lobe Sep. 117) 2k-7k range
7228 beehive springs (16 springs) required for over .600 total lift.
7 degree retainers for the beehive springs
ARP 12 point head bolts
8 new Non-MDS lifters with guides
And I got a spring tool.

The only thing left is a set of gauges. Im thinking of a pillar pod with a boost gauge and an AFR wideband. I might get a combination gauge, and a single pod. I havent decided. I might also have to get a converter. We will see.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2023 | 03:12 PM
  #36  
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The wideband would be a REALLY good idea.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2023 | 05:08 PM
  #37  
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I got a few parts in for this build this week, and Im just about done with buying parts. I got the lifters, springs and retainers, cam, well...everything I have ordered I have. Except the valve covers. They are made to order, so they might take another week or two. I have figured out that the deer jump I encountered awhile back has damaged my springs and struts. The car makes noise over bumps like you expect with bad shocks/struts, and the rear of the car is as low as the front. I had it set with a slight rake, which is how I like my cars. I guess Im not surprised though. The entire car left the road. I have another $2k coming for a bonus from work pretty soon, so Im going to get new adjustable coil overs, and replace the rear brake calipers and all 4 sets of brake pads. I might get some suspension bushings too. We will see. Im going to have to wait on the LSD for awhile. I have about $900 left in the budget, and decided to leave it for the unseen things, like sensors and consumables like oil and gasket glue, etc.

Anyway, just one picture this week. Its the cam card. I cant wait to get started on this.


 
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Old Mar 2, 2024 | 07:16 PM
  #38  
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Started installing the springs today, and getting ready to install the cam. I ran into my first issue.

I ordered a Comp Cam 112-337-11 cam, with .635 lift and a .117 degree LSA. On their website, Comp cams suggested I go with their conical springs (P/N 7228-16) and they suggested I use the hardened retainers (P/N 1774-16). After installing the 4 springs on the drivers side head, just for kicks I set the rocker shaft on the supports and found this (picture below).

The original retainers allow the spring stem to sit higher. With the new retainers from comp cams, the locks sit way deeper into the springs. I have sent an email to comp cams and Im sure its an easy fix. I set the original retainers on the new springs, and they might work, but they move around a little more than the others, and they move more than they do on the factory springs. I also attached a picture of the original springs and retainers. This is on the passenger side, and they are installed, but you can still see the problem.

See, the valve is hitting the retainer here

The original retainers allow the stem to stick out further.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2024 | 07:17 PM
  #39  
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I almost forgot, another small issue. The lifter trays. I bought new, Non MDS lifters, but they apparently need another tray. I took some measurements, and found the non-mds lifters (at the tray) to be .7220 to .7230, but the MDS lifters were .7615 to .7625. If I put the non-MDS lifters in the MDS tray, they fall out. The non-mds lifters were provided with a new tray that holds them in place. So, I guess I need 4 non-MDS lifter trays total (and yes I shorted myself by 4 lifters, so Im going to have to buy 4 more, like an idiot).
 
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Old Mar 5, 2024 | 06:45 PM
  #40  
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I called comp cams, and I bought the wrong retainers. The beehive springs are sort of universal, and they work with several platforms, including the 5.7 hemi. I went to the bottom of the spring web page and it said to use the 1774-16 retainers. After digging a little deeper I realized the hemis have to have the 761-16 retainers. I called to verify this, and they said I was right. The confusion comes from the part numbers, as the retainer web page says they are for different springs.

I just ordered the 761-16 retainers. That should fix the issue.
 
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