How mnay daytona owners here?? ROLL CALL!!
1988 Daytona Turbo I. 5-speed.
Purple..well maroon kinda but more of a purple.
2.2L
Turbo Xs Boost Controller
Underdrive Pulley
Magnecor Wires and Autolite plugs
Mopar Performance 185 Degree Thermostat
Scorpion 5 spoke black rims
FWD performance guage pod and Cyberdyne Air/Fuel guage
K&N filter
2.25 exhaust with NO muffler
near future mods planned are Intercooler- FWD computer chip, Blow off Valve, and Bigger Injectors. I love this car my girlfriend is kinda mad cuz she says I spend more time and money on the car then her. LOL.
Purple..well maroon kinda but more of a purple.
2.2L
Turbo Xs Boost Controller
Underdrive Pulley
Magnecor Wires and Autolite plugs
Mopar Performance 185 Degree Thermostat
Scorpion 5 spoke black rims
FWD performance guage pod and Cyberdyne Air/Fuel guage
K&N filter
2.25 exhaust with NO muffler
near future mods planned are Intercooler- FWD computer chip, Blow off Valve, and Bigger Injectors. I love this car my girlfriend is kinda mad cuz she says I spend more time and money on the car then her. LOL.
ORIGINAL: DWedyke
If I remember right, the 87 Shelby I had was set at 7.5 psi from the factory. The MAP sensor reads the intake manifold pressure and relays that to the computer. The computer then cuts off Fuel to the engine "thinking" it's in an "overboost" mode if you go above the 7.5 psi range. The computer doesn't cut-off the spark, because then the cylinders would have raw fuel in them and that would get very ugly!
I read somewhere that someone "cheated" the MAP sensor by installing a "bleed off valve" in-line between the intake manifold and the MAP sensor. You need to be very careful, because Dodge Turbo cars don't adjust Air/Fuel ratio via a "mass air flow sensor". They use a "look-up" table and take input from all your sensors to determine how long to open the injectors and dump fuel. I.E. - O2 sensor, temperature sensor, throttle position sensor, speed sensor, MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor and fuel pressure sensor.
When does the car "cut-out"? After it's at full operating temperature? Is there any pattern to the problem? Does it run fine when it's first started and still relatively cold?
I'm certainly not an expert, so please be very careful if you "mod" anything. Just trying to help . . . .
To everyone, If I've spoke in error, please don't hesitate to correct me. I've been out of the "Dodge Turbo" car scene for quite some time and I"m going off my memory.
Have you run the "internal" diagnostics test yet, with the ignition switch?
If I remember right, the 87 Shelby I had was set at 7.5 psi from the factory. The MAP sensor reads the intake manifold pressure and relays that to the computer. The computer then cuts off Fuel to the engine "thinking" it's in an "overboost" mode if you go above the 7.5 psi range. The computer doesn't cut-off the spark, because then the cylinders would have raw fuel in them and that would get very ugly!
I read somewhere that someone "cheated" the MAP sensor by installing a "bleed off valve" in-line between the intake manifold and the MAP sensor. You need to be very careful, because Dodge Turbo cars don't adjust Air/Fuel ratio via a "mass air flow sensor". They use a "look-up" table and take input from all your sensors to determine how long to open the injectors and dump fuel. I.E. - O2 sensor, temperature sensor, throttle position sensor, speed sensor, MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor and fuel pressure sensor.
When does the car "cut-out"? After it's at full operating temperature? Is there any pattern to the problem? Does it run fine when it's first started and still relatively cold?
I'm certainly not an expert, so please be very careful if you "mod" anything. Just trying to help . . . .
To everyone, If I've spoke in error, please don't hesitate to correct me. I've been out of the "Dodge Turbo" car scene for quite some time and I"m going off my memory.
Have you run the "internal" diagnostics test yet, with the ignition switch?
the 5 speed cars had the great TII engine and 12 psi of boost blown through a intercooler before it hit the intake...
I do know the mods all too well..just been in the past year that I can play with me car after owning it for 7 years..
Yes you can "bleed" one but here is the deal
out cars can operate up to 15% of the basic programming from the scale your speaking of...so raising the boost pressue can be done up to 14.7 psi..then overboost kicks in.
now for people who want to jump from 7.5 to say 11 psi.. that's an easy fix and mainly safe without going hog wild.. going too far and trying to fake out the map sensor will cause pistons to melt or break apart (believe me I should know) The best thing to do is ask yourself these questions:
1. How am I driving this car? long term--are you keeping it?
2. are you a drag racer?
3. street racer ?
4.just a daily driver type?
5.How much time and money are you willing to spend?
I can tell you for the easy money you can bring the 7.5 psi up to 12 psi for dirt cheap..after that you need to invest the time and start thinking about Hi-Performance..new pistons and a new computer cailbration.intercooling...
We in the Turbo Dodge world know that we CAN get alot of HP& Torque from our cars for a small amount of money compared to say a Honda or Toyota...for what the ******** spend for 50 hp (well over $1000) we buy a grainger valve and given that 2 psi=20 horse you can do the math right there for under $45 dollars so 5 psi extra boost is going to be around 50 HP.. you can see my point..
the information about the Turbo Dodges are out on the net--tons of known facts...I just said a small amount to wet somebody's mouth--it's up the person to find and take that knowledge and see if that applies to their car and their needs.
Mark
Between me and my little bro we have 3, 2 I have bought for under $1,000.00. They are my first I bought for my son, is a 1989 daytona, with the 5 speed and 2.5. I spent $500.00 for it, and put in $1,800.00 in parts as of this last weekend. It is a fast little car that my son traded to my bro for a 1985 D-150 pickup. It also has the 4 wheel disk breaks that I love. The next one is my daughters. Its a 1990 daytona with the 5 speed and 2.5 as well, I bought it for $400.00 and have only spent $300.00 in parts on it so far, I plan on converting it to a TII turbo, and putting in a super 60 set later. The dealership informed me they can still get the wireing harness direct for me so I am happy. Right not it is a guttless wander. but she is only 9 so I have some time to get it up to what I want it to be before she will get it. Here is a picture of the 1990 with my brute besides it (1985 dodge ramcharger). I have alot of work to do on all the dodges in my yard at the moment, but I don't mind.http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...E/100_0368.jpg
This is crazy is this the longest thread or what? ok I just got another 92 daytona es.so that now makes 4 for me.and i also plan on doing the v8 conversion with this one also.
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http://www.fwdperformance.com/Store/...atalog=Exhaust
That should help you there! Give them a call and I know that they can do Custom if you want as well>
BATTLEMATE
That should help you there! Give them a call and I know that they can do Custom if you want as well>
BATTLEMATE
I own a 1990 2.5 with the Spring Special package. Radiant fire red with grey quartz interior. I am the second owner and hopefully the last. She's been giving me some maintenance problems lately, but it's nothing I can't have fixed. The main problem is the floor pan rot. Got the passengers side fixed last year and now the drivers is going. The body shop that fixed it said this problem was rare for these cars? Well I do drive her in NJ winters, since she is my daily driver and I no longer have a garage to keep her. I am keeping her OEM, because I like the way the car looks as it is. Once she's fixed up, she's going to Carlisle. I sent in a pic to be posted, but I am not sure where it went??? This is one car that's a keeper as long as no moron runs into me!! LOL
Cheryl
Cheryl


