I own and have owned since new a 1990 Shelby Daytona VNT. Through the years I have enjoyed many hours tinkering and modifying the car and taking out for a blast on a straight away or the twisties (sorry to say no track time). I've been told to convert it to a TII set up to get more power but, you just cant beat the VNT for turbo response. Recently, I bought a 2005 SRT-4 ACR which I like very much but, the Daytona has something that the Neon just does not have despite it's many improvements- style. I'm just greatful that i've been blessed with the ability to keep them both for now.

 

1987 Shelby Z T2 t-tops picks to come.

 

1990 ES no turbo, 3.0 5 speed. 80 thou off of heads, 10.35 comp ratio, 54 mm tb set up, ballanced bottom end, everything else stock. 0-60 times-outragous, top end- I backed out at 140- no ball in my lod age LOL. This car is a handfull, blew the minds of some local tuners with it, u should have seen thei 20,000$ smirks turn to tears when they couldnt touch me. I actually built this car for my 17 year old son, got a total of just a tad over 1000$ in the motor and I just did a custom paint on it myself for about 700$ in supplies. looking into a exhaust system and cold air induction soon, and maybe a chip in the computer Here are some so-so pics, enjoy the Daytonas, I do.
Troy

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I gots a '92 3.0 auto 'tona. It was given to me and it has 120,000 miles or 200,000km. So far it is still running!!! Needs alot of work though. The paint is peelin off real bad. None on the the liftgate or the roof!! I am sure that I will be posting lots of questions on this forum as I will need a bit of help with the mechanical. Thanks-alot!!!!

 

oo lets see here, I had a 1990 2.5 Daytona sold it. I still have my 1992 Daytona from when i was 15. Rebuilding the A604 in it currently and also have a 1990 lebaron also rebuilding the trans in that. (Damn a604s)

 

I know it's a Laser, but hey- they are the same car! 1985 Laser 5 speed. On it's second 2.2 TBI engine thanks to my step-brother. Very little rust, and that will be taken care of soon. Working on installing the front and rear bumper facia's from an 86 Daytona Turbo and the side skirts from an 89 Daytona Turbo. Interior is pretty much stock except for the radio. I replaced the seats with the ones out of an 86 Turbo, including the "enthusiast" drivers seat, didn't convert to power seat though. I got this car 2 weeks before I turned 16 (I'll be 33 next month). 17 years and still going! Gotta love MOPAR. Plans for it in the future will be to do the exline rear wheel drive conversion and dropping in an 8 cylinder, maybe a 340 or 360 now.

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I own two '89 Daytona's. My CS with a 2.5 turbo 1 and the other an ES with a 2.5 non-turbo. Currently I am in the middle of modifiying my CS. Got the motor torn down to the block and ran into money problems and couldn't go any futher. I plan to strengthen the block for a bigger turbo and NOS. But I am in school now and I am actually about to move 22o miles away to go to school. But when I get done with school I get her running.

 

Hey Everybody, It's been awhile but I finlly have my 91 almost 100% complete. It doesn't have the power my 87 or my 89's had but i runs good and sounds great. Let me know what you think.

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Well lets see new to the daytona (and driving actually) Just got my 1992 Daytona ES (though it has the IROC package) had a engine overhaul before I bought it at about 243,000 KM on it

 

If I remember right, the 87 Shelby I had was set at 7.5 psi from the factory. The MAP sensor reads the intake manifold pressure and relays that to the computer. The computer then cuts off Fuel to the engine "thinking" it's in an "overboost" mode if you go above the 7.5 psi range. The computer doesn't cut-off the spark, because then the cylinders would have raw fuel in them and that would get very ugly!

I read somewhere that someone "cheated" the MAP sensor by installing a "bleed off valve" in-line between the intake manifold and the MAP sensor. You need to be very careful, because Dodge Turbo cars don't adjust Air/Fuel ratio via a "mass air flow sensor". They use a "look-up" table and take input from all your sensors to determine how long to open the injectors and dump fuel. I.E. - O2 sensor, temperature sensor, throttle position sensor, speed sensor, MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor and fuel pressure sensor.

When does the car "cut-out"? After it's at full operating temperature? Is there any pattern to the problem? Does it run fine when it's first started and still relatively cold?

I'm certainly not an expert, so please be very careful if you "mod" anything. Just trying to help . . . .

To everyone, If I've spoke in error, please don't hesitate to correct me. I've been out of the "Dodge Turbo" car scene for quite some time and I"m going off my memory.

Have you run the "internal" diagnostics test yet, with the ignition switch?