How do i make my automatic faster?
#1
09-29-2004, 12:53 PM
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#2
09-29-2004, 01:10 PM
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RE: How do i make my automatic faster?
Your best power mod availble for your car is a crane #12 cam (along with valve springs) that will give you the greatest boost in power. After that a mopar performance ECU or AF/X ECU will add another really nice gain. Then the standard full exhaust (header, high flow cat, and cat back exhaust) and an iceman CAI.
Here are a couple site that you should take a really good look theyhave all the parts you could ever want:
www.modernperformance.com
www.howellautomotive.com
Here are a couple site that you should take a really good look theyhave all the parts you could ever want:
www.modernperformance.com
www.howellautomotive.com
#3
09-29-2004, 09:14 PM
RE: How do i make my automatic faster?
alright there is a guy on this site who is nick, he knows alot and told me this. you would be loking at about $1000. valve body, transmision cooler, and changing some beraings around. but post up that you are looking for nick kraufer(sorry if i spell it wrong)
#4
09-29-2004, 10:24 PM
#5
09-29-2004, 10:33 PM
www.hahnracecraft.com
Hahn TurboSystems for Neon
Chicago, IL: When Hahn RaceCraft set out to design a turbosystem for the Neon, our objective was to offer an alternative to those who wished a car with an excellent power to weight ratio, but did not want to be limited to an imported vehicle to get it. We knew that Neons had enjoyed considerable success in road racing, establishing the vehicle's superior chassis and durability under competition conditions. The 420A DOHC engine / drivetrain, which we had been turbocharging since early 1998 with excellent results in our Talon / Eclipse line, was already well known by us as a proven player (see ongoing development page on this site for more details). So we set out to bring to the public a bolt-on system that would unlock what we saw as exciting potential. After months of carefully controlled testing and refinement, we are happy to report that the results even exceeded our own high expectations! The results we have unleashed in these outstanding cars is unprecedented in the Neon arena, and offers a cost-effective formula that makes the Neon a truly attractive performance alternative when compared to many other cars!
Strong words, to be sure. But this phenomenal car can back them up with our technology installed. For instance: Take a basic 5 speed DOHC Neon (for this example, we will use an inexpensive, lighter weight non-RT, say a 1996 model). Add an HAHN bolt-on Stage II turbosystem, a set of slicks and a free flowing exhaust system. Now go to the drag strip and run 13.00 second quarter miles @ 105 MPH on 93-octane pump gas! The cost of the car, HAHN Stage II Turbosystem, slicks and exhaust is under $10,000 total! Where else can you find that kind of performance in a late model, attractive vehicle for that kind of money? And you'll still get great gas mileage on the street, plus a newfound ability to absolutely stun Camaros, Mustangs, Eclipses, etc! Try to get a glance at their confused faces as you pull away…it's just a riot!
Versatility:
The Hahn RaceCraft Neon Turbosystem is versatile, too. You can start at Stage I, and upgrade to Stage II later if you like. Stage II systems can also be upgraded to more powerful specs later. And all three use the same, identical turbocharger, intercooler and basic system components! You can start mild and graduate to wild! Or, stay with the 200 HP Stage I offers at a very reasonable price. The choice is yours, and you can always rest assured that if you do choose to upgrade, the parts you purchase have been fully developed and proven by Hahn Racecraft to deliver dependable performance.
The two cars pictured here are an excellent example of this versatility. Both cars use the same Hahn RaceCraft turbo, intercooler, piping, etc. The Hahn RaceCraft Stage II car is a loaded RT, and is capable of thirteen second, over 100 MPH quarter miles through the stock catalytic converter. We have installed an electronic boost controller, and can choose different power levels from the driver's seat just by pushing a button! The other Hahn RaceCraft car is the the World's Quickest Neon, with a best ET and MPH to date of 10.55 @ 139! Yet still driveable to the track, all that needs to be done is put on slicks, add a few gallons of race gas and then ruin a few V8 racers' day. All that needs to be done then is just reinstall the street tires and drive it 60 miles back home. Lots of street prowling for unsuspecting victims goes on in between drag strip visits. Proof that if you want to go fast, you don't need a Honda or a huge budget to do it! Yet the Stage II car uses the same system as the faster Neon but without the Higher HP upgrades. It is a great example of an extremely street compliant, variable power level, very fast yet affordable car with all the options. You can have it either way with the Hahn approach!
Chicago, IL: When Hahn RaceCraft set out to design a turbosystem for the Neon, our objective was to offer an alternative to those who wished a car with an excellent power to weight ratio, but did not want to be limited to an imported vehicle to get it. We knew that Neons had enjoyed considerable success in road racing, establishing the vehicle's superior chassis and durability under competition conditions. The 420A DOHC engine / drivetrain, which we had been turbocharging since early 1998 with excellent results in our Talon / Eclipse line, was already well known by us as a proven player (see ongoing development page on this site for more details). So we set out to bring to the public a bolt-on system that would unlock what we saw as exciting potential. After months of carefully controlled testing and refinement, we are happy to report that the results even exceeded our own high expectations! The results we have unleashed in these outstanding cars is unprecedented in the Neon arena, and offers a cost-effective formula that makes the Neon a truly attractive performance alternative when compared to many other cars!
Strong words, to be sure. But this phenomenal car can back them up with our technology installed. For instance: Take a basic 5 speed DOHC Neon (for this example, we will use an inexpensive, lighter weight non-RT, say a 1996 model). Add an HAHN bolt-on Stage II turbosystem, a set of slicks and a free flowing exhaust system. Now go to the drag strip and run 13.00 second quarter miles @ 105 MPH on 93-octane pump gas! The cost of the car, HAHN Stage II Turbosystem, slicks and exhaust is under $10,000 total! Where else can you find that kind of performance in a late model, attractive vehicle for that kind of money? And you'll still get great gas mileage on the street, plus a newfound ability to absolutely stun Camaros, Mustangs, Eclipses, etc! Try to get a glance at their confused faces as you pull away…it's just a riot!
Versatility:
The Hahn RaceCraft Neon Turbosystem is versatile, too. You can start at Stage I, and upgrade to Stage II later if you like. Stage II systems can also be upgraded to more powerful specs later. And all three use the same, identical turbocharger, intercooler and basic system components! You can start mild and graduate to wild! Or, stay with the 200 HP Stage I offers at a very reasonable price. The choice is yours, and you can always rest assured that if you do choose to upgrade, the parts you purchase have been fully developed and proven by Hahn Racecraft to deliver dependable performance.
The two cars pictured here are an excellent example of this versatility. Both cars use the same Hahn RaceCraft turbo, intercooler, piping, etc. The Hahn RaceCraft Stage II car is a loaded RT, and is capable of thirteen second, over 100 MPH quarter miles through the stock catalytic converter. We have installed an electronic boost controller, and can choose different power levels from the driver's seat just by pushing a button! The other Hahn RaceCraft car is the the World's Quickest Neon, with a best ET and MPH to date of 10.55 @ 139! Yet still driveable to the track, all that needs to be done is put on slicks, add a few gallons of race gas and then ruin a few V8 racers' day. All that needs to be done then is just reinstall the street tires and drive it 60 miles back home. Lots of street prowling for unsuspecting victims goes on in between drag strip visits. Proof that if you want to go fast, you don't need a Honda or a huge budget to do it! Yet the Stage II car uses the same system as the faster Neon but without the Higher HP upgrades. It is a great example of an extremely street compliant, variable power level, very fast yet affordable car with all the options. You can have it either way with the Hahn approach!
#6
09-30-2004, 01:56 AM
RE: www.hahnracecraft.com
Ask and ye shall receive.
All of what was listed above is very good for ENGINE power but does virtually nothing for your ATX. The reason being is a cam affect your engines performance not your transmissions. Same thing with a turbo. Although, you will see a greater boost in power from the turbo with the ATX but it's still not truly affecting your ATX's shift points or anything like that.
If you want to truly build up your automatic (31Th) there are plenty of options.
Cost basically varies depending on what you are looking to do and how much you really are willing to spend. Like Tom said, it is going to cost about $1k if not more.
You can start small, like adding a performance valve body from http://performanceautomatic.com or Howell Automotive also sells valve bodies as does Modern Performance. Keep in mind you are going to be required to also install a secondary transmission cooler with the valve body. Because the performance VB eliminates your torque converter lockup feature. The VB will increase line pressure, which will in escence make your transmission shift quicker and harder. It'll also keep it in gear longer as well. With the lack of the lock-up feature the tranny will generate a lot more heat and a secondary cooler run in line with the stock cooler will help cool it down faster. You don't want to boil or coke or cook your transmission resulting in $4-$5K worth of damage to it.
There are a few types of VB's, there is a race, street/strip and a do-it-yourself version.
Currently, I have a street/strip VB but will soon be upgrading to the race VB. I don't personally recommend the DIY VB because you are basically going to modify a stock VB to perform like a performance VB. And several things can go wrong with it. A) it's not desinged to function at the higher pressures the manufactured one is. And B) the DIY is an old VB with miles on it. And by modifying it you drastically shorten the VB's life whereas the performace one is designed and built to handle the pressures and has 0 miles on it.
If you are planning on going turbo I would definitely suggest the following items for your transmission.
Performance VB (either street/strip or race).
Secondary Cooler (THIS IS A MANDATORY PART).
Limited Slip Differential (LSD) either a Phantom Grip, costs about $300 and is decent however at some point down the road you will want to upgrade to the Quaiffe which will run you around $1200.
1.22 Transfer Gears, the price varies on them since they are getting harder and harder to find. They came on early model Chrysler K-Cars. Usually anywhere between $80-$200 depending on where you can find them. I got mine for $100 and couldn't even begin to tell you where or whom I bought them from it's been so long.
And a rebuild kit. There are two types stock and performance, you are going to want a performance rebuild. Which can also get at performance automatic or howell automotive.
If you want details on anything feel free to PM, IM (when I'm online), Email me or post on here.
BTW, Tom, it's Kaufer.
All of what was listed above is very good for ENGINE power but does virtually nothing for your ATX. The reason being is a cam affect your engines performance not your transmissions. Same thing with a turbo. Although, you will see a greater boost in power from the turbo with the ATX but it's still not truly affecting your ATX's shift points or anything like that.
If you want to truly build up your automatic (31Th) there are plenty of options.
Cost basically varies depending on what you are looking to do and how much you really are willing to spend. Like Tom said, it is going to cost about $1k if not more.
You can start small, like adding a performance valve body from http://performanceautomatic.com or Howell Automotive also sells valve bodies as does Modern Performance. Keep in mind you are going to be required to also install a secondary transmission cooler with the valve body. Because the performance VB eliminates your torque converter lockup feature. The VB will increase line pressure, which will in escence make your transmission shift quicker and harder. It'll also keep it in gear longer as well. With the lack of the lock-up feature the tranny will generate a lot more heat and a secondary cooler run in line with the stock cooler will help cool it down faster. You don't want to boil or coke or cook your transmission resulting in $4-$5K worth of damage to it.
There are a few types of VB's, there is a race, street/strip and a do-it-yourself version.
Currently, I have a street/strip VB but will soon be upgrading to the race VB. I don't personally recommend the DIY VB because you are basically going to modify a stock VB to perform like a performance VB. And several things can go wrong with it. A) it's not desinged to function at the higher pressures the manufactured one is. And B) the DIY is an old VB with miles on it. And by modifying it you drastically shorten the VB's life whereas the performace one is designed and built to handle the pressures and has 0 miles on it.
If you are planning on going turbo I would definitely suggest the following items for your transmission.
Performance VB (either street/strip or race).
Secondary Cooler (THIS IS A MANDATORY PART).
Limited Slip Differential (LSD) either a Phantom Grip, costs about $300 and is decent however at some point down the road you will want to upgrade to the Quaiffe which will run you around $1200.
1.22 Transfer Gears, the price varies on them since they are getting harder and harder to find. They came on early model Chrysler K-Cars. Usually anywhere between $80-$200 depending on where you can find them. I got mine for $100 and couldn't even begin to tell you where or whom I bought them from it's been so long.
And a rebuild kit. There are two types stock and performance, you are going to want a performance rebuild. Which can also get at performance automatic or howell automotive.
If you want details on anything feel free to PM, IM (when I'm online), Email me or post on here.
BTW, Tom, it's Kaufer.
#7
09-30-2004, 12:38 PM
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10-01-2004, 12:37 AM