if the FASS you got has it's own filters you can yank the stock filter setup and toss it to the curb.

the stock fuel heater is electric BTW.

 

I live in Minnesota and although I purchased the FASS system (Filters) I elected to plumb the FASS into my existing fuel filter to maintain the (electric) heater and water sensor. It is much easier to plumb into the factory filter than run a supply and return coolant line back to the FASS pump. I have over 10,000 miles on the truck without a fuel filter change of either the FASS Filter or the Factory Filter and I still maintain a steady 15psi fuel pressure, I was told when fuel pressure starts to drop replace the filters.

 

OK .. bear with me

So the stock fuel heater is electric and is mounted on the stock fuel filter .... right?

Two questions ...

1. Can't I run the fuel lines to and from the stock fuel filter but leave the filter out? Pretty much just running the fuel into an emptybowl with a heater on it.

2. If I'm taking the wireing off of the stock fuel filter and running it to the FASS ( what you are supposed to do per the instructions ), aren't I also now removing the wireing to the heater?

 

I supose you could take the filter out and just run without.

You are actually tapping into the Factory Fuel Pump wiring not the Factory Fuel Filter wiring.

 

There's wireing for the pump AND for the filter? WTF ???

 

Yes, separate wiring for the pump and filter. Its the wiring of the factory pump that will run your new FASS. No need to worry about the filter wiring.

 

the filter wireing is just for the water sensor. Rev800 has it right, if you have the FASS 1, you can just run that without the stock filter since the fass filtration is 5 micron I think.

 

OK ... What I thought was going to be a simple job now has me a bit nervous and unsure of what to do.

The instructions say to run the fuel line from the FASS right up to the injection pump.

Here is is ...

4. Disconnect factory fuel line from inlet side of the factory injection pump and install the injection pump o-ring fitting into the inlet port. ( Note: This is where the suction fuel line from the fuel filter enters the injection pump ) Torque to 18lbs.

The instructions then get into running the line from the FASS to the fitting, wireing, ect. It doesn't mention the heating system at all. Am I not eliminating the heating element by doing this? Is that OK to do?

Rev800 ... you said that you've continued to run the fuel through the stock filter. Aren't you also then pushing the fuel through the old fuel pump by doing that?

Maybe I have the fuel path wrong. I thought it went like this ...

From tank - to fuel filter - through heater - through fuel pump - to injection pump.

Is that right? If so, how would you reccomend hooking the FASS up so that I will still be able to continue to use the heating? Do I even NEED the heating?

Thanks guy's !! Sorry for all of the questions. I just want to make sure I've got it straight before I even start.


Oh yeah ... I've got another question.

What about the stock return line? Isn't it now eliminated? Remove it? Why didn't FASS just run your new return line back into the same port as the stock return line was run rather than having to cap / remove it?

 

Donnie. . .the flow of fuel goes from the tank, to the lift pump, through the filter/fuel heater to the injector pump.

you can remove the heater all together since the VP44 will generate heat on it's own, and return that heated fuel to the tank. that is how extra fuel is returned to the tank is through the VP44. what ever fuel is not used to run the engine is used to lubricate and cool the VP44, then this fuel is returned to the tank. under high load conditions the VP44 diverts more fuel to the operation of the engine lowing the amount of fuelbeing used to lubricate and cool itself. this is where problems occur. this is also where fuel flow instead of pressure is crucial for operation.

so realy, you could run the lines from the fuel tank, to the inlet of the FASS pump, then from the outlet of the FASS to the inlet of theVP44. once you have everything running, you can remove the stock filter canister and just leave the fuel heater lines unhooked.

OR, you can remove the stock lift pump, then plumb the outlet of the FASS pump to the back of the filter canister if you want to keep it there. you dont have to have it, however the WIF sensor will need to find a home. this should be in the instructions. (WIF = Water In Fuel)

 

This F%*KING site !!!! [:@]

I had a whole thing all typed up but I got dumped AGAIN !!! [:@]

Anyway .... First of all, thanks Drew for thaking the time to explain everything. I feel better now about eliminating the heater. I guess FASS isn't too concerned with the heater if their instructions seem to bypass it huh?

Here is what I found from that other guy's install. It loks like it's just like how FASS says to do the install ..



The instructions from FASS don't mention the WIF sensor at all. If I run the line directly to the VP-44 ( what FASS calls an injection pump ), aren't I eliminating that sensor?

It sounds like I should probably try and figure out how to plumb it all up going from the FASS to the fuel stock filter huh? ( kinda what I was thinking ) Do you see any potential problems there? I was going to leave the filter housing empty just to keep from having to maintain another filter since the FASS filter will now be not only 2X the size of stock, but also so easy to maintain.