For the past year my van has been rolling with out Anti-lock brakes. I was told it was a sensor but no idea which one since there are two I think any idea of a way to diagnose or a common one that breaks? If not I will probably just order the part and replace and if it doesnt fix it return and retry the next sensor.

 

The rear ABS sensor is on top of the differential.

 

Yeah I went with that one and changed it out as it did seem to be the most common problem. After changing it out still have both lights come on at same time after about 2 min of driving. I reset the battery as well taking off the neg cable for 5 min.

I dug up an old post where it seemed there was a brake proportioning valve that went bad. Do yall think this could be it? The front sensors are 120-140 each so I dunno about changing them out and then it be this valve deal.

 

You didn't mention lights in your first post. A problem with the ABS system will not turn on the brake light, only the ABS light. But a problem with the brake system will turn on the brake light, which in turn can turn on the ABS light. Since the brake light is on, your problem is not an ABS one, it's a problem with the regular hydraulic brake system.

 

Lots of vans were manufactured with rear ABS only, so make sure your model has front sensors before beginning to buy replacement parts. There is a wiring harness (4 wires?) that connects to one of the proportioning valves underneath the battery that is fairly notorious for going bad so you might want to check that out. In this case your ABS continues to work just fine mechanically but you get the dash light because the electronic self-check fails due to the wiring failure at the proportioning valve.

 

Rusty: How do I check to see if these wires are good or not? Or just inspect to see the connection looks good?

Alloro: Since both lights are on and its not ABS and brake system what would you suggest I replace or check?

Thanks guys! Id really love to get this figured out.

Before replacing my rear sensor I slammed on my brakes to check for ABS my non scientific way but worked and wheels locked up. After changing rear ABS sensor ... lights still on but I havent done the red neck abs test.

 

I'm a bit confused -- every working ABS I've slammed has pulsed the brakes, doing its best NOT to lock up... with kind of a foot massage at the pedal...

but I know nothing of the B ABS systems...

 

I would start by testing the front and rear output ports on the master cylinder to see if one or the other won't pump up any pressure.

 

Dave: That was my point was that they are not working.

 

Take a closer look under the battery by first removing the left side front turn lens assy, the left fender extension, and then the horn mounting plate. I have experienced situations where you can see wiring damage (one of the wires broken or corroded) and I have also seen situations where the wiring looks physically OK but there is still a bad wiring connection at the valve. You can try moving the wiring where it connects to the valve and see if the ABS light goes off. Of course, you'll need a second set of eyes in the van to help you with this.