I have a 2000 Ram Conversion van 1500. About a month or so ago it seemed like it only wanted to start when it was warm outside, now it wont start at all, only turns over. I put a new battery in and a crank sensor and sprayed starting fluid. Turns over but nothing..... I have no spark from the coil and I used a multimeter and seems I am not getting anything to the coil. I then clean all connection on battery and inside the fuse box, I also changes some matching fuses around thinking it was the Auto shut off. Still nothing. I hear the fuel rail pressurizing and no engine light. I did the key dance and came up with "NO BUS". Also, there is a buzzing from the fuse box under the hood, auto shutdown I believe.Does the cam sensor play a part in this? or is the problem in the wires or PCM?

 

It's the PCM.

 

Considering the PCM is going to cost me my left arm, is there a way i can test it before i buy? Just to make sure. Also, all gauges seem to work fine.

 

Also, is it normal for the Auto shut off relay in the fuse box to continually buzz with the key turned?. With 5 daughters and a limited budget, I need this van running without breaking my bank.. thanks for your help.

 

No but the buzzing relay noise is yet another symptom of the PCM failing.

Many times the PCM can be tested by first warming it up with a hairdryer before attempting to start the engine. If it starts easier with the PCM warmed up, then it's definitely the PCM.

 

Thank you.. Heading out now to try the hair dryer.. Will let you know the outcome. If the PCM is bad, would i still hear the fuel rail pressurizing? I am thinking you would just shuts down the injectors.

 

Hair dryer did not work.. But, a month or so ago it seemed like it would only start when it got above freezing. One time it started right up, went down the road and then home, shut it off. I then reached in to start it and it hesitated then caputt. Hasn't started since. I got the PCM out now and looking for alternatives to getting another. What is the cheapest route i can take?

 

Just to get clarity from what ive read in this forum.. Will I not get a "no bus" code if it was the coil? Thinking this incase I tested the coil wrong. I used a multimeter, black on neg of battery and the red in the harness going into the bottom of the coil, with the plug detached from coil and motor turning over. Nothing showed. Cheapest i found was a remanufactured $175

 

No you would not. If the primary (low) side of the coil was getting pulsed voltage and you were not getting spark, then the coil would be no good. The No Bus message is the instrument cluster's way of telling you it cannot communicate with the PCM.

 

Sometimes you can find good used ones for 1/2 that.