I discovered my harmonic balancer is wobbling so badly is just barely missing the timing cover. Pretty scary. The rubber isolator/dampener is fine. Maybe somebody pulled on the outer edge at some point or something.

Anyone replace a harmonic balancer on your van?

The FSM instructions seems pretty straightforward although they provide instructions using specialty tools and doesn't give you details on getting clearance.

My plan is to work from underneath so I don't have to deal with all the hoses and whatnot above. I assume, the fan and fan cover need to be removed, right?

I've read the seal should be replaced when replacing the balancer as well but the shaft/crank appears to have no play/turns straight. My understanding is the front crank seal can be replaced without removing the cover by using a seal puller. If thats the case, I'll leaning towards going ahead and replacing the seal althogh I'm a bit worried when tapping a new seal in the cover may damage the cover gasket (from the pressure). Any thoughts?

I don't plan on using the crank bolt to set the pulley. I 'rented' a balancer remover/install kit from Advance Auto. By using this kit, I don't have to worry about keeping the crank from turning (prying/screwdriver against flexplate for example), right?

Thanks!

 

Wrong, the crank can still turn because you are cranking the press-on nut to the right as you're installing the pulley. Granted it's not as much torque as using just the crank bolt, but just be prepared for it to turn. Also, when you go to install the crank bolt, you have to torque that down and the crank will need to be held at that point.

 

Good point. Would you go with the flexplate screwdriver deal? This will be a first for me, so am worried about damaging the teeth. Seems like the alternative is using an impact wrench.

Any opinion on the crank seal?

 

I would just use an impact wrench if you have one and save yourself a headache. You have to remove the timing cover to replace the seal.

 

Clamp vise grips on the pulley, turn till it hits and then tighten the harmonic balancer bolt to 180 ft lbs. I'd only only replace the seal if it were leaking and/or if you see a wear pattern on the balancer, in which case you should install a repair sleeve and new seal.

 

So essentially the woodruff key is keeping the crank from turning? Would this put to much stress on it?

I think I read a similar method using a socket through the balancer.

Probably just gonna pick up an impact wrench.

 

Its true that an impact wrench will simplify things but is not required.

Locking the pulley in place with visegrips will place stress on the pulley and the woodruff key when tightening the bolt yes, that is true. I've done over a hundred like this and never had an issue. All methods of tightening this bolt will place stress on that key. The fact is that this bolt isn't going to come loose: its more a matter of being sure that the balancer is fully seated so the pulley aligns with the others. But just FYI, most of the competent car manufacturers use Loctite on that bolt, so you may want to coat the bolt with that to be certain.

As per the instructions that should come with your new balancer its a good idea to lightly wipe the seal surface with motor oil prior to installation. This helps to insure lubrication when initially starting the engine and should preserve your existing balancer seal.

 

You convinced me. Gonna give that method a shot.
Thanks!

 

Quick Update:

Got the balancer off literally as the local rain system moved in.

Because I didnt have a 1/2" breaker bar for the 1 1/4" crank bolt socket, I opted to pick up a $35 1/2" electric impact wrench from harbor freight. Unfortunately, this required additional clearance than expected. I had to lift the radiator several inches temporarily onto a jack stand. Then removed two bolts holding driver side condensor and was able to pull that side back far enough to get the impact wrench in. Once in, the crank bolt zipped off easy peasy. Crank didnt rotate when removing the bolt or using the crow foot puller on the balancer.

So in summary, for those in the future who opt to use a larger 1/2" impact wrench I ended up removing belt, fan, fan shroud, oil fill extension and swing brace over, coolant overflow and washer fluid reservoir tank (makes room to get the shroud out), air intake hose/extension, hood release cable, lift radiator, move driver side of ac condensor. towards front of vehicle.

Still got to put the new balancer in once the rain clears but seems pretty straightforward. The crank seal looked good but grimy. Once I clean that up a bit I'll figure out if a replacement is in order, but don't expect it'll be the case.

 

Balancer is on and everything is buttoned up. It went on easy with the installer after heating the balancer up a bit in the oven. The vise grip trick to keep the crank from turning came in handy when installer didnt want to come back out.

Thing is, the balancer still has some wobble. Not as much as before but more than I'd like. I don't have a dial indicator on hand to determine exactly how much. I suppose the crank may be a bit bent or the main bearings are worn. Anything else?

Hopefully its not a keyway issue because I didn't replace it when I was in there. It looked fine and with it tucked back behind the crank seal I didnt want to mess with it too much and damage the seal. Is it customary to replace the key whenever the balancer is replaced?