Shimmey Revisited
#1
Shimmey Revisited
Hi all. A while back I asked about a vibration in my DRV 3500 which only occurred going uphill under acceleration between 40 and 50. It didn't have to be very steep either otherwise ride was smooth at all speeds. The suggestion back then was to check my unjoints and turns out they are fine.
Today I was driving an atypical hilly road for Fl. and noticed 2 things- the rough running always seemed to occur at an up shift (I'm accelerating) and if I got down on the pedal (instead of feathering it trying to get better gas mileage like I usually do) the tranny would kick down and then get no vibration at all thru the gears.
When I bought the van it would kick down too easily on slight acceleration on flat roads and so adjusted the throttle cable which was misaligned quite a bit from the shop manual position. On flat roads every thing was fine after that. Moving to N. Fl. there are hills and my problems became evident.
Does it make any sense that if I overcompensated a little with the throttle cable adjustment to prevent kick down or if the position has changed a little over time that now accelerating up hill especially trying to "feather" the gas pedal that the tranny is shifting into a higher gear a bit too soon for the speed I'm going with the engine under heavy load causing the engine to shudder a little. Like if you upshift too soon going uphill with a manual tranny. I'm thinking I might just have to readjust the throttle linkage.
Before I do that any advise would be greatly appreciated.
Today I was driving an atypical hilly road for Fl. and noticed 2 things- the rough running always seemed to occur at an up shift (I'm accelerating) and if I got down on the pedal (instead of feathering it trying to get better gas mileage like I usually do) the tranny would kick down and then get no vibration at all thru the gears.
When I bought the van it would kick down too easily on slight acceleration on flat roads and so adjusted the throttle cable which was misaligned quite a bit from the shop manual position. On flat roads every thing was fine after that. Moving to N. Fl. there are hills and my problems became evident.
Does it make any sense that if I overcompensated a little with the throttle cable adjustment to prevent kick down or if the position has changed a little over time that now accelerating up hill especially trying to "feather" the gas pedal that the tranny is shifting into a higher gear a bit too soon for the speed I'm going with the engine under heavy load causing the engine to shudder a little. Like if you upshift too soon going uphill with a manual tranny. I'm thinking I might just have to readjust the throttle linkage.
Before I do that any advise would be greatly appreciated.
#2
#3
Never did anything electrical so don't know when the last tune up was or anything about age of O2 sensors. The only code I get is PO442 for small evaporative emmisions leak and have had that code since day 1.
#4
#5
Thanks
#6
Plugs, definitely. Just use some good copper plugs, skip the rare earth fellers, these engines don't always care for them. I went with NGK's. Plug wires, if they are old and stiff.... (or original.....) distributor cap, and rotor, and a genuine mopar pcv valve. (aftermarket fellers aren't always the correct flow rate.) And don't forget the O2 sensor. (those can be a real drag to get out...... I used a pipe wrench, and a big hammer. )
#7
Plugs, definitely. Just use some good copper plugs, skip the rare earth fellers, these engines don't always care for them. I went with NGK's. Plug wires, if they are old and stiff.... (or original.....) distributor cap, and rotor, and a genuine mopar pcv valve. (aftermarket fellers aren't always the correct flow rate.) And don't forget the O2 sensor. (those can be a real drag to get out...... I used a pipe wrench, and a big hammer. )
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#8
Plugs, definitely. Just use some good copper plugs, skip the rare earth fellers, these engines don't always care for them. I went with NGK's. Plug wires, if they are old and stiff.... (or original.....) distributor cap, and rotor, and a genuine mopar pcv valve. (aftermarket fellers aren't always the correct flow rate.) And don't forget the O2 sensor. (those can be a real drag to get out...... I used a pipe wrench, and a big hammer. )
Do you know a brand of wires that actually fit (5.9L)? If nothing else should Mopar?
Thanks
Last edited by arty4444; 05-18-2019 at 01:40 PM. Reason: Spelling
#9
#10
You were spot on. Took me a while but after new plugs, dist. cap, rotor, front O2 sensor, PCV valve and finally ig. wires (had to order wires to get right lengths- Taylor 8.2 mm) van is running so much better. But the shimmey that was so obvious before is still ever so slightly present at same speed/conditions as before. It is barely noticeable and I could easily live with it but for gas mileage purposes would like to fix it. It's obvious now my main problem was ignition. Do you think I should try replacing the coil? It is prob. orig @ 80K miles now and is the only part of the ig. system not replaced. Thank you so much for your help- I was initially sure it had to be the drive train or tires and would have headed off in all the wrong directions without your help.
Last edited by arty4444; 05-26-2019 at 01:50 PM. Reason: Spelling