Keep us updated.

 

Sorry to keep ya waiting fellas. Got the job done. Found a Sea Foam lubricant spray that was helpful in cleaning. New oil pump was all good and managed to get a new engine-mount in.

Unfortunately, the knocking persists. Going the remanufactured engine route. Any tips on manufacturers? Must haves? On THE tightest of budgets... but upgrades seem interesting.

I'm adding new cat and muffler.

Anyone know what belts or other replacement parts I should buy for the swap? Water pump? Steering wheel cover?

 

Would this apply to my engine? It's a 94 5.9 L

Distributor - Surging, Bucking, or Intermittent Missing
NO.:
18-16-92 Rev. A
GROUP:
Driveability
DATE:
Oct. 19, 1992
SUBJECT:
Surging, Bucking, Or Intermittent Missing
THIS BULLETIN SUPERSEDES TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN 18-16-92 WHICH SHOULD BE REMOVED FROM YOUR FILES. REVISIONS ARE HIGHLIGHTED WITH **ASTERISKS**.
**THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO 1992 VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH 3.9L OR 5.2L MPI ENGINES AND 1993 VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH 3.9L, 5.2L OR 5.9L MPI ENGINES.**
MODELS:
1992--1993**
(AB) Ram Van/Wagon
(AD) Ram Pickup/Ramcharger
(AN) Dakota
**1993**
(ZJ) Grand Cherokee
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
Vehicles may exhibit surging, light bucking, or intermittent engine misfiring. This will most likely occur when the vehicle is at operating temperature, and under a light load at approximately 2000 RPM. This condition may be caused by a mis-indexed distributor. The following procedure is an alternative to the indexing procedure outlined in the service manual.
REPAIR PROCEDURE:
This bulletin outlines an alternative distributor indexing procedure.
1. Connect a voltmeter to the distributor sensor connector by removing the end seal and carefully back probing the connector. Connect the positive lead to the sensor output pin (pin 3, either a tan wire with a yellow tracer or a gray wire, depending on vehicle application). Connect the negative lead to the sensor ground pin (pin 2, a black wire with a light blue tracer).
2. Rotate the engine clockwise as viewed from the front, until the number one piston is at Top Dead Center (TDC) of the compression stroke. The timing mark on the vibration damper should line up with the zero degree (TDC) mark on the timing chain case cover.
3. Continue to rotate the engine slowly clockwise until the V6 or V8 mark (depending on engine type) lines up with the zero degree (TDC) mark on the timing chain case cover. The V8 mark is 17.5°after TDC and the V6 mark is 147°after TDC.
NOTE:
DO NOT ROTATE THE ENGINE COUNTER CLOCKWISE. IF THE ENGINE IS ROTATED BEYOND THE MARK, RETURN TO STEP 2 AND REPEAT THE PROCEDURE.
4. Loosen the distributor clamp bolt.

5. With the ignition switch in the ON position, rotate the distributor slightly in either direction until the voltmeter switches between the sensor transition point of 0 and 5 volts.
6. Adjust the distributor as close as possible to either side of this transition point and tighten the distributor clamp bolt to 170-230 in.lbs. (19-26 N-m).
POLICY:
Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty.
TIME ALLOWANCE:
Labor Operation No. 08-15-02-90

AD, AN ........ 0.3 Hrs.
AB ........... 0.4 Hrs.
FAILURE CODE:
51 - Improperly Installed

 

If the engine runs good, then probably not.

Did you check clearances on the new bearings?

 

Could be a wrist pin. May try pulling the other valve cover and if you dont see anything there pull the valve trains apart, then the heads as discussed before. I still think it possibly could be a bent push rod or something simple. It's coming apart anyway.

 

Thanks. I'll do that. What should I look for when I get the valve cover off? Is there a way to test for bent push rod, etc?

 

Yea spin it over or a quick start and watch the movement of each rocker arm. Im still hoping you may get get lucky.

 

Ok, I'll get on that. When you say quick start, do you mean turning the key over for a second, but not starting the vehicle?

 

Honestly, I ran into so many problems during the job. The first torque wrench I borrowed wouldn't click at all, so I got another, but it wasn't calibrated properly and I overtightened the bearings. Had to replace half of them when I finally got a good torque wrench. All of this on the side of the road. I just made sure everything was clean,, set properly and torqued to spec. One of the bearing was pretty crushed and misshapen. The rest had wear and some scoring. The first main bearing had some wear and minor scoring. I just put it back in.

I'm trying to find a good affordable mechanic to do a swap. I'll check the valves, but with work just can't afford the time to get it done properly myself. Feeling pretty bummed out, but hopefully things will work out well in the end. Thanks again for all of the support and guidance. It was a good learning experience getting under there. I want to know as much as I can about my vehicles, so it's worth it just for the learning.

 

I ordered my new engine.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b...q=engine&pos=1

Got a mechanic who is ASE certified to do the job for $1,200. You know which hoses and belts I need to order? I guess I'll do new spark plugs and water pump. New thermostat? Anything else?