Farm equipment paint is TOUGH. I used it on my mower deck (tractor). That stuff is pretty much indestructible.

 

So today I went back to the front end and installed inner and outer tie rods, along with a new tie rod adjusting sleeve for both sides.

These were so bad that when I checked them, I could easily move them around while they were still attached to the suspension. The studs are easy to move and clunky, the boots completely compromised and blown out. Only the castle nuts and the pressure from being together since 1990 held it all together.

I was able to use the pitman arm puller for this, and didn't need the longer tie rod end puller.





Because I was replacing the entire inner/outer/sleeve, all I had to do was measure the distance from each end to the edge of the sleeve, and the total distance of the assembly, and make the new components match the old ones in dimension.

In doing a lot of reading and video watching, there is talk of counting the threads with tie rod ends so that one may install new hardware with little change to the alignment. But in this scenario that wouldn't work because the replacement ends are longer than the originals. Thus, the new parts require a greater number of spins on the thread than the old ones. But since I was replacing the assembly, no need for any of that.

Something of note - When measuring from the end of the tie rod sleeve to the center of the grease fitting, each tie rod was 3 1/8" away on both tie rods, both sides. I assume no adjustment had ever been made.

On the test drive my alignment is the same as it was before, but the steering is so much tighter and responsive!

I'm thinking shocks and then the oil pan soon.

 

I would get an alignment anyway.

 

Going to phone that in in a bit. The alignment is bad enough that you can just tell it's off by looking Feels the same but yeah... gotta get it in.

Having said that, it was with quite a bit of dismay that I ran across this in the Haynes manual when looking up how to relieve fuel pressure.

"1990 models with the 5.2L engine are equipped with a throttle body that may cause hard starting when hot and then idle rough. This could be caused by a defective throttle body ... if the date code is 2409 or earlier, remove the throttle body and install a late style unit that is built with a raised injector port".

Well damn... that's just great.
And I do seem to be having the issue it describes.

I found a throttle body on rock auto for $337. Should I look elsewhere? Any advice on buying something like that?
Bear in mind I've yet to check the manufacture date on mine.

 

Check yours before spending money.

 

Ok, I got the alignment done today and it's riding much better.

It does still pull to the right a little but rides better than it ever has. I do still need to do ball joints so that could be a culprit. Not too worried about it.

All of the parts for the rear main seal and oil pump are here, I'm just working up the nerve and timing to do this. I will try to take and organize pictures of the process.

I've not checked on the throttle body yet, but found that it was something to do with the defective unit damaging the injector seals. I'm not going to replace it over that, but might try installing fresh injector seals.

 

Hopefully, you won't have to redo the FEA after you replace the ball joints.

 

I know, right? I really wanted to wait on an alignment after I did the ball joints but I am using the van now and it was really bad so had to get it done.
We shall see.

Today I did the rear shocks. I took care to read both the Haynes and the factory manual before doing a thorough visual inspection.


I have to say, both manuals were wrong. With the Haynes having you inexplicably loosening lug nuts and the factory manual has you removing the shocks under load, I had to figure out my own plan.

Both manuals say to lift and support the vehicle. The factory manual says to support the vehicle at the frame rails in the rear. If you do that, you cannot remove the shocks - they're under load, so I had a better idea...
lowered the vehicle back down. Removed the nut from the top part of the shock. With the nut off, you can see which way the bolt is "bending" under load. Then I used a jack on the rear axle directly, close to the wheel, to "straighten" out the bolt and pull it out. Problem solved.
I did both sides in less time than I spent trying to follow the service manual's simple but flawed method.

Here's an old one


Have to say, after the test ride I realized how bad off those shocks were. The switch removed some noise from the rear when backing down inclines as well. Very nice feel to the ride.
I wanted to get the more expensive Monroe Gas Magnum shocks, but with all I'm doing and what I'm doing it on, I rationalized that I can't go premium every where. But, these shocks were $15 a piece and feel so much better than what I had. The front two are in the mail.

Also in the mail are the remaining pieces to do the oil pump and rear main seal (thought I had everything but didn't). I even got a sneaky pete tool because I'm betting the original rope seal is what's in there. I will get some pictures of the new parts soon, front end included.
After the oil pump and rear seal there won't be a lot of mechanical work left (I hope), except for revisiting the ball joints, proactively replacing the fuel pump (already have the part), redoing the front brake lines... ok maybe there's more than I imagined

 

Your shocks should not be acting as a limiting strap........ That is REALLY bad for them, and tends to tear out mounts. Even with the axle at full droop, you should have to compress the shocks a bit to install them. Of course, on a van, I would like to think that it wouldn't be an issue, not like you are going to be running whoop-te-dos.... Or jumping anything....

 

So I was installing front shocks today and ran across this



Come to find out, my tie rod adjusting sleeve was not tightened either. So, I phoned the shop where I had the alignment done.

First of all, the said that they would have never touched the tie rods. That's a lie. Then they offered if I left it with them overnight that they'd see what they could do, but at the end of that said, "but we would not have adjusted the tie rods or torque anything down".
So, I just knew that they weren't going to own it. I torqued these to 55 and they were great. Only after the alignment are they crushed.

In any case, both inner tie rods have the boots completely blown out. I'm not going to take the van back to them because their attitude, I can just tell they're going to deny touching it.

Small claims court?
Grrrr.