Welcome all, decided to post here as a way to document my unofficial Ram Van project. First let me say that I'm not a mechanic, and before owning this van I had only ever changed oil or spark plugs in a vehicle.

This is the 1990 B150 5.2L fuel injected, 3 speed auto, 5300 GVWR, 127" wheelbase, 1/2 ton cargo van.
I purchased the van in 2019 from the original owner - a rural school district in Oregon for $1,160. It was their school lunch van and it accrued 67,000 miles between 1990 and 2018 delivering lunch to a school... or something like that.





There were 3 problems I understood when examining the van; there was an oil leak, low oil pressure, and it pulled to the right. Normally, I would pass on a vehicle with low oil pressure however, this van came with the 5.2L. I used to own a 1979 Dodge Magnum with the 318 and it always had low pressure. For 3 years it was my daily driver and the pressure was always low, the engine rattled, and it always ran. So, on that sentiment, I didn't let the low pressure thing stop me (even though it maybe should have).

After driving the van off and on for about 2 years and adding almost 4,000 miles to it, I started to want to improve the van. I then decided that I would make the van a mechanically sound, somewhat livable RV. That is my goal.

The windows have been sprayed on the inside with frosted glass. The translucency works great!

And speaking of windows, none of the windows in the back open. Only the front two windows open, so I added an RV vent to the roof.



The cargo rack is also mine, but I'm considering a small utility trailer if this project works out.

Work done so far - oxygen sensor, MAP sensor, caliper/pads/rotors, front wheel bearings, drag link, ignition coil, universal joints, spark plugs

Work to be done (and will be covered on this thread), but not limited to - upper and lower ball joints (threaded and press in both sides), inner and outer tie rods both sides (with new sleeves as well), fuel pump, throttle position sensor, Denso 120amp alternator, and the one...
I call it the big one...
dropping the pan and replacing the rear main seal, oil pump, and pickup tube.

After that's done, I'll finish the inside with a bed, kitchen, entertainment center, and possibly a bathroom.




As I point out earlier, I'm not a mechanic. But I do have these books AND, I'm buying the tools to do these jobs. The ball joint press and other tools are being shipped. I'm purchasing tools to do the job for the first time. Mostly everything is from Harbor Freight. Stuff that I can't get there like the o2 sensor socket I needed I get online. Rock Auto has been great.

I'll discuss in detail later the nuances of this particular van, but for now, here are some shots from the inside.





Will update soon and if you made it this far, thank you!

For those that have noticed or are wondering, the truck in the background is a 1992 D250 1st gen cummins. It runs great and doesn't need anything.

D

 

Replace the soft lines on the brakes as well.

For the tools that you will only use once, you can likely rent them from your local auto parts store.

You also want to get a service manual for your van. Doesn't have to be the print feller, and electronic version would be just fine. Should be able to find them online, from various sources. Haynes, or Chiltons, just aren't gonna cut it. You want the actual FACTORY service manual. It will have LOADS of truly useful information in it.

 

@HeyYou I will add soft brake lines to the list and get that ordered. They did look suspect. Lots of work to do. Thanks!

As for manuals, I do have the factory service manual (and Haynes). Pictured above. And you're so right - it has a lot that the Haynes manual doesn't have. But I will say that more of the Haynes is understandable to me, and what is missing can always be found in the service manual. I'm learning as I go and I'm grateful to have both.

Also, already spent on the tools. I'm hoping I'll have a use for them after I'm done with this van. That might be fun.

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So today I was changing the oil and my suspicions were correct...


I've been using the wrong filter. How could this happen? I'll explain.
When I first changed the oil, I referenced the fram filter PH43. I could not find it at two different locations but I noticed PH4386 which appeared to be the size of the filter already installed. Sure enough, it matched up to the old filter, a ValuCraft which I believe is used by Valvoline Instant Oil Change. So when I've purchased replacement filters, I've regularly grabbed the always available PH4386 except for this last time when it was not in stock. I checked and double checked the STP filter and it said that it was for this vehicle. And you know what? It installed without issue. So not only was I using the wrong filter this whole time, so were the people before me. I imagine the school would have no idea if the wrong filter was on. Anyway, the right one is on now.

While I was changing the oil, FedEx showed up. Brought me a fuel filter, throttle position sensor, and plug wires. What great luck to have that delivery show up as I have the engine compartment open
Check out these plug wires! They look to be off the shelf from the day the van was new.


Fortunately, they were in new condition - no cracks or drying, like they were manufactured the other day. Each wire attached to the plug and distributor cap with a satisfying, "SNAP". I like when that happens.
Throttle position sensor screws were tough to reach. Was like a puzzle playing around with ratchet extension sizes, but got it done.



So there's the filthy engine compartment with the nice new ignition coil and new wires. Notice on the air filter cover, toward the right side there is a wire hanging down. There are actually 2 and I read 12v coming out of it. Hmm. This might explain the radio and backup warning situation... more on that in a later post.

Next up will be the alternator which should arrive tomorrow. Then I need to adjust the drag link before putting in complete tie rod replacements - inner/outer/adjusting sleeve. Both sides. Then ball joints. Then fuel pump and filter. Then the big one.

edit - I've failed to mention that this engine runs very strong. It has a lot of pep and can climb up hills with ease, easily upshifting while on some very steep angles. I live in a mountainous area. On the highway, just purrs along at 65 and 70mph. Takes very little throttle or effort to maintain speeds. All of this with never more than 30psi on oil pressure and usually not more than 15psi. The three speed transmission is not good for passing though and besides - it's old and doesn't need that kind of handling. My average weight is around 5000 with me and one passenger and yes I can weigh daily and sometimes do.

 

All right, got the new alternator installed today. It was slow going but relatively easy.

Here are the two alternators side by side -


So the new alternator is a Nippondenso 120a, replacing the old alternator which seems to be the same spec. I was surprised to find a 120a in there, but since this was purchased by a school, perhaps they selected that as an option. Pretty sure this is the original from 1990.

I have a digital speedo that also has voltage output. I was noticing that sometimes the alternator would run at 14.2-14.4 but only once in awhile. Most of the time it was running at 13.6-13.8 without any lights, accessories, or anything on.

New alternator steady at 14.2
I will say that if anyone has a use for this old one, they're welcome to it just pay shipping. I know that the manuals have a section for rebuilding these... not sure if anyone is into that or if I should post in another section.

 

If you don't have one, get a digital volt/ohm meter. I'd test the plug wires when you take them off. They may very well be the original. You can use your ohm meter to check them. Put one electrode on each end of the wire and move the ends towards each other. The resistance may change a bit but if it jumps to 1, you've got a bad wire. I replace old ones as a matter of course. For the price, you avoid a lot of issues down the road. On your flex hoses on the brake lines, I'd replace the rear one too. It's the same age. On the oil pressure, 10 psi per 1000 RPM is what I look for. Your sending unit may not be accurate anyway. I'd add a mechanical gauge and see what it reads.

 

Well, I have to say that threaded ball joints suck.


This is a socket for a threaded balljoint. The factory manual calls for tool C-3561 to unthread the ball joint. This is the equivalent size 2-9/64.

Unfortunately, I could not break the ball joint free. Was using a long break bar and I'm only stripping the balljoint as it refuses to turn. As such I'll need new upper control arms so I'm going to put the ball joint and shocks on hiatus.

On a positive note I found that the dropping the oil pan for this particular model is not a big deal. I do not need to raise the engine or disconnect motor mounts. Simply removing the cross exhaust pipe and engine/trans strut then the pan is all it takes.

So, I may be doing the oil pump soon. Should I do the high volume pump? Does it really make that much of a difference? I've had lifter noise for awhile.

 

I doubt your van ever idled for hours like a fire truck. If I'm dropping a used engine into something, I'll put a HV unit is as well as replace the expansion plugs and timing chain. I don't think you need to bother with them for a while. I'd check to make sure the gauge is accurate. Replace it with a mechanical unit to see what that reads. Then again, I've seen engines like yours with a sludged up oil pan and oil pickup tube.

 

I'm fairly certain that it is sludged up. My battle plan was going to be to use liqui moly, drain, then drop the pain and replace the rear main seal and the oil pump, along with the oil pump pickup tube. That will probably get done soon now that I reached an impasse on the front end. First job I had to put away the tools with it unfinished. Grr.

 

Yeah, whoever thought threaded balljoints was a 'good idea' should be taken out behind the woodshed......

Some heat will probably convince it to let go.

 

I took a break on the front end and decided to paint the wheels as they looked so nasty.



I simply used an angle grinder with a soft wire brush attachment and did some, "sanding" on the gouged out rusted spots.
Used a primer that has extra fill in properties for rough services.

Followed with a rust stop enamel. It's similar to farm equipment paint.

Looks good up close too.