So I've gone back to this for the moment and decided to replace the front brake lines as per @HeyYou 's recommendation.

I know this is going to sound stupid, but look at this picture and could any one tell me which way I should rotate this metal brake hose fitting?



I know it sounds dumb but I'm not a mechanic and I want to make sure. My guess is that I'd rotate the wrench to toward the light to loosen it.

I want to say, I tried that and this thing is really stuck in there. I need a flare wrench before I try again but I want to make sure I'm turning this the appropriate direction.

Having said that, I want to point out that there is virtually no information in the Chrysler service manual about this part. There is a crude diagram (not exploded) and zero instructions for brake hose replacement.
The Haynes manual has a lot more detail, but it has diagrams and explanations of systems not like this one. There is no clip on this hose. There are (get this) 4 bolts that hold this brake hose in, along with 2 screws that go to the frame for a total of 6 contact points for the left side hose. 7 if you count the bolt on the upper control arm, and 8 if you count the banjo bolt. 8 bolts for a brake hose less than 2 ft long. Genius design! Neither the Chrysler manual or the Haynes mention anything about this whatsoever. How odd!



Oh and wait it gets better! The left and right sides are completely different and there is no differentiation in the manuals.
I couldn't understand, with the detail that exists in the Chrysler manual, how this would be completely omitted.

In any case, I will pick up the 3/8 flare wrench when in town, but if someone could give me a suggestion on the direction to turn this, I'd be grateful.

 

Yep. Just remember: Righty Tighty, Lefty, Loosey. Of course, that assumes you are looking at the head of whatever fastener you are attempting to remove.

For brake lines, chemicals are you friend. PB Blaster works rather well for me. Soak the fittings a few times, let 'em sit for a while, then try and break 'em loose. What I have found is, the flare nut will break loose from the line it is screwed into, but, not from the line it is securing... so, wiggle in back and forth a bit, to get it to break loose from the line, then you should be golden. Either that, or be prepared to replace some hard lines as well.

 

When you look down at the head of a bolt, you rotate it counter-clockwise to loosen it. The combination wrench in your first photo will have the bar on top going towards the vehicle. The ratchet in the second photo, you want the bar to go towards the vehicle. In both photos the threaded part will rotate counter-clockwise. This is lefty. Like HayYou said, lefty loosey.

 

Thanks for that, guys. I'll get some chemicals when I get the flare wrench and try to wiggle and turn it towards the vehicle

 

Get a light hammer. Perhaps a tack hammer. Personally, I use a brass machinist hammer. Get the wrench on tight and snugly up with one hand. With the other hand and a hammer, tap it sharply in the direction to loosen it. If you've got some B'Laster or Kroil on the fitting, it should pop loose.

 

When you spray with PB Blaster immediately tap the nut with a hammer or the wrench. This will vibrate the PB Blaster in deeper to let it do its work. Also time helps. I like to spray stuff and let it marinate overnight. If I spray and rush to attempt the removal bad stuff usually happens. I hate having a bolt head twist off.

 

Ain't that the the truth.

For brake lines, I eventually got fed up with them constantly breaking off.... so, I took to just cutting the friggin line, right at the flare nut, then I could get a six-point socket on 'em. I made sure to have the replacement brake line right there handy.

 

I can't seem to find the replacement part for the metal lines. I suppose I could use a generic brake line repair kit?

 

That's what I do. Get a line the correct length, or, a bit longer, then bend it by hand. I have a flaring tool as well, so, if its really too long, I can cut and re-flare it. I don't think I have ever bought a brake line that was bent for a specific vehicle. (and I have been doing this a LONG time. )

 

I've seen kits for collector cars but they are only so so and you have to straighten them sometimes as they get bent in shipment. I have a roll of brake line tubing. I cut however long I need and either reuse old flare nuts if they're in good shape or get new ones. If the corners are rounded off for instance, I'll take one and find another that size and thread. I have manual flaring tools but I've seen hydraulic ones that are easier to use and if I was going to buy tools now, I'd get one. The old ones do require a good amount of hand strength.

One tip, whether you make a new line or shorten a store bought one, put the flare nut on the line and facing the right way BEFORE you flare the end. Nothing like getting a beautiful cut and flare and find you forgot the nut.