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I've seen kits for collector cars but they are only so so and you have to straighten them sometimes as they get bent in shipment. I have a roll of brake line tubing. I cut however long I need and either reuse old flare nuts if they're in good shape or get new ones. If the corners are rounded off for instance, I'll take one and find another that size and thread. I have manual flaring tools but I've seen hydraulic ones that are easier to use and if I was going to buy tools now, I'd get one. The old ones do require a good amount of hand strength.
One tip, whether you make a new line or shorten a store bought one, put the flare nut on the line and facing the right way BEFORE you flare the end. Nothing like getting a beautiful cut and flare and find you forgot the nut.
The hydraulic fellers are REALLY cool, easy to use, and fit in some odd places, but, they are EXPENSIVE...... As I don't do this for a living any more, and try and avoid doing it as much as possible.... I just can't justify the cost of the spiffy hydraulic feller. The manual version I have works rather well, and doesn't really require that much effort. For as little as I do it, it'll continue to do the job.
So I wanted to do something simple today to keep the thread going while I change locations.
The fuel filter seemed like easy prey, until I got into the specifics of relieving the fuel system pressure. Both the Hanyes and Chrysler manual talk about removing the fuel cap and then running 12v through the injector wires on the harness for a few seconds. According the diagrams, the second pin from the top is the 12v + pin on this connector. See it? Upper left center of picture, 4 vertical pins.
I ran a current through at short bursts and heard... nothing. It was as if the battery were dead. I test battery and see 12.1v. Low, but alive. I cross connection on the leads and see sparks.
Ok, I must assume and according to instruction - the fuel pressure has been relieved.
I went with the fully chrome fuel filter, just in case I get featured in Low Rider magazine.
I compared it to the existing filter.
Appears identical in size and shape.
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Less than 1/2 cup of gasoline was wasted in the exchange, confirming for me that the fuel pressure had been properly relieved.
Fits perfect.
"Made in Taiwan". That tells me that this is the original filter that shipped with the vehicle. Almost nothing is made in Taiwan but many years ago China exported from Taiwan to avoid some trade regulation. This stopped around 1990. These two filters are very likely identical and have been made in the same exact factory, only this time they say, "Made in China".
We will be revisiting the ball joint issue soon as it's becoming a pressing problem.
Oh yeah, I also picked up a hacksaw and an exhaust repair kit for when we revisit the oil pump job. New set of ratchet wrenches as well. More to come.
Last edited by 1990B150318; 06-09-2021 at 06:58 PM.
Just a quick update, I was having some issues with the temperature fluctuating some. It's not, "overheating" per se, but the temp isn't acting normal. It rides a little higher and bounces between 1/4 and 1/2.
I decided to change the thermostat.
The manuals both say to drain the coolant from the system. It's (to me anyway), a pretty elaborate process that involves quite a bit more than detaching a hose. On top of that, the Haynes manual has about a full page of instructions for dealing the the thermostat. Ridiculous!
The housing was a real pain to get to. But after removing a bunch of stuff, I could finally see and remove the bolts. You can see one of them, just under the spring. This is the view laying on the driver's floor with the covering off.
I put a very large and wide tubberware bin below the engine, and just removed the two bolts. Almost two quarts of liquid collected, along with a ton of debris.
The fluid's color was decent, and didn't feel oily. I emptied the remainder of a coolant jug into the radiator, and then used a funnel and coffee filter to recollect the drained fluid back into the jug.
Results? Runs a little warmer, but more stable, less range of movement on the temp gauge. Tends to stay right at 1/4, goes a little higher on the hills.
I've seen a lot of thermostats that were nearly impossible to access over the years. Here's a little tip. Get a distributor wrench. I was working on a Cadillac Eldorado with the 500 c.i. engine and the thermostat stuck open. One bolt was hidden under the a/c compressor. Rather than disassemble the front of the engine, a distributor wrench got underneath it and removed the bolt. Pulled the thermostat, replaced it with a little water pump RTV and bolted it back on. 30 minutes instead of 2 or 3 hours.
I put a very large and wide tupperware bin below the engine, and just removed the two bolts. Almost two quarts of liquid collected, along with a ton of debris.
FYI, those are the main water jackets in the block and it's not necessary to remove those unless you're doing a complete cooling system flush. For the t-stat change, all you needed to do was open the drain at the bottom of the radiator and drain the radiator about halfway, or in other words until the coolant level is below the t-stat.
FYI, those are the main water jackets in the block and it's not necessary to remove those unless you're doing a complete cooling system flush. For the t-stat change, all you needed to do was open the drain at the bottom of the radiator and drain the radiator about halfway, or in other words until the coolant level is below the t-stat.
Good to know for if and when I drain coolant in the future.
The Chrysler manual doesn't make it sound so simple. The directions were to run the vehicle with the heater on, and then release the cylinder head petcock to remove the coolant for t-stat install.
For me, not being a mechanic, having no help with this otherwise, I have to be very careful about doing things outside of the specific directions in the manual. If it's a square peg in the square hole, et cetera, then I can wrench or torque as required, but going outside of what's there can get me in trouble. I will definitely check to drain at the radiator in all future endeavors. Thanks for that tip!
I wanted to just chime in to say that I've changed locations and there will be good opportunity to complete this project in the coming days or weeks.
Furthermore, I'm currently being offered an old Sportsman dual axle box truck. Not sure on the year but I'm guessing mid 70s?
I'll include some pictures soon and will be hopeful for any advice along the way. I'm thinking that if I take on the Sportsman, it will be a separate thread.
The new place is much better than the old, but I've found myself needing to use the van on the daily and so I've been reluctant to advance repairs, although it will happen sooner or later.
Having said that, the oil pressure has been great. 30 lbs on the regular. The Liqui Molly made a difference, but only after some time of driving it. There were a few small metal bits in the drain pan, but no sludge after the drain.
I still need to get the flare nut wrenches for the brake lines. But in doing that, I realized that if I have an issue with the metal lines, it could park the van and right now I just cannot afford to have it out of commission, so critical repairs have been slow in coming. I'm in the process of getting a small commuter car for the time being so that the van can be fully dedicated to restoration instead of carrying my gf around to her various appointments (ok that's a cheap shot I use it too). It drinks a ton of gas but I can tell you that after the repairs so far, it runs very strong. Surprisingly strong.
I didn't go all the way but I wanted to stress it a little to see how it ran because the thing is babied all the time. Doesn't hurt to try an blow some of the carbon out! I live in a very rural place and some areas do not have speed limits. I made sure I was alone on a straightaway in such an area.
It could have gone more, sounded real good.
I have that digital speedo because this analog one is wonky. Sometimes it doesn't work, other times it pegs out so I got that GPS speedo as a fix. Runs on 12v also reports distance and voltages.
While I'm here, a request - if anyone can find a place to get the center link for this van, I'd like to know about it. It's not the "drag link". Every part of the front end is easily available - tie rod inner/outer, idler arms, tie rod sleeves, drag link, control arms - everything front end on this is available everywhere... except the center link. Why?
Last edited by 1990B150318; 07-15-2021 at 01:58 PM.
06-06-2021, 07:04 PM
The manual version I have works rather well, and doesn't really require that much effort. For as little as I do it, it'll continue to do the job.
(ok that's a cheap shot I use it too). It drinks a ton of gas but I can tell you that after the repairs so far, it runs very strong. Surprisingly strong.
