OK guys. Help me out. I was camping 2 weeks ago and killed my battery. No big deal I thought. Next day I tried to jump it and it would not start. Cranking though. Next day. Cranked one time and second time it would not even crank. I was in the middle of nowhere. I get friend to get tech to come out and look at it since I am 3 hours away from home. He replaces starter. Nothing. I wish I would have had my DMM. Finds blown fuse under hood that you could not see blown by looking at it. Anyways, then car starts but now I have no charging from alternator. Just great. He leaves and comes in morning saying that voltage regulator is in computer. I cannot believe this all happened from dead battery. He says it may be alternator still and I say nay. I get a ride home from friend and he takes my van to his shop or wherever. Calls me 2 days later and says it was just connections he cleaned up. What? I had no issues before this nightmare. Anyways, even takes out new starter and puts back in old one. 500 bill. All fine and dandy. He came out on weekend, towed, etc. I take off after picking it up and brake and anti lock brake light are on. was not before. He says they were always on. He has stopped responding to me. I checked all fuses in glove compartment and under hood. Unfortunely not that simple. brake lights work and speedometer work. Brake fluid level is fine. Who out there can tell me what the hell happened? Brakes work fine but I am guessing anti lock system is not fine. Do not get this either. there are 2 spots in the fuse box under the hood for anti lock system, I actueally think one is for a relay, but they do not have posts or occupied. I would think then that I do not even have anti lock brakes? Anyways, I also heard there was some module that U can short out a certain pin to get anti lock code but online it was all for dodge trucks. If I do have anti lock, can someone tell me where this module is and specific directions on what I need to do? Any other possible reasons these stupid lights may be on? If I lose a speed senor, will my speedo still work? What wheels all have speedo sensors on a van? online it was trucks and it sounded like they were on the rear and sensor was on pumkin. Is that true with vans also? Any input would be great. I got charged 500 by this guy because I was in a tight spot and really do not feel like paying out more money. Love it when U take your car to a shop and leave with another problem Just wonderful

 

What year is your van? Sounds like you have RWAL, instead of 4WAL, as the relay isn't there. (which is normal.)

 

The van is a 1996 B2500 with 318.

 

Could be the sensor on top of the rear diff. Your 96 has the speed sensor for the speedometer in the trans tailshaft housing.

 

Just some other info if you may know. I cannot find much on the internet for the van. Is this a passive sensor? Should I have no voltage on the line to the sensor with the key turned on? If it is the sensor and I put a low resistance resistor across the wire harness should this turn of the anti lock brake light and tell me that it is definately the speed sensor?

 

Some easy freebies to try -

The brake light in dash being lit - check your emergency brake pedal , hit the release and even pull up on it by hand.
If it passes that test - disconnect the switch at E-Brake pedal- see if it goes out.

Anti-Lock lit - check for stored CEL codes first.
Then disconnect positive battery cable for a few minutes - reconnect.
See if it goes out - comes back on - or stays off

A friend had a 2004 jeep grand cherokee that lit up a lot of dash lights after a battery/alternator problem, once it got back roadworthy. Positive battery cable disco for a few minutes made them go away.
Cars do weird shet these days with all their gizmos and micro-management

 

That is exactly what I had two weeks ago. Battery went dead, alternator was not charging battery but it was fuses under hood and bad connections. I disconnected the negative terminal and it did not reset. Has to be the positive, hu? I will try that. Thanks.

 

I don't think disconnecting the battery will clear ABS codes....

There should be five volts at the sensor with key on. If there isn't, you just found out what the problem is, now you need to find WHERE it is.

 

I am sort of conflicted on the speed sensor testing. I saw one video where they said that this was a passive sensor that should not receive any voltage from the module and it is actually the sensor itself that creates an AC signal with frequency changing according to speed, sending this signal back to the module. Can anybody clarify this?

 

The sensor gets 5 volts from the PCM. It's a hall affect sensor.