Hello all,
I have a 2001 Dodge Ram Van 1500 5.2 L 8 cyl ≈220,000 miles ,which would not come out of 2nd gear, it's an automatic and would show D not 2 or 1 but was clearly not leaving 2nd and was having startup issues. Before that it was giving a CPS error code even after replacing CPS, and would occasionally get stuck in 2nd then have to be put in park and put back in drive to get it to pick up again. Then it stopped going out of 2nd entirely as I was going to get a read out so I took it to a shop and they said probably transmission issues but I didn't have money for a lot of work so I just took it back. I originally tried to replace the transmission but found out not all 46REs are compatible [see post: https://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-ram-van/445737-2001-5-2-l-46re-trans-swap-new-style-nss-to-old-style-nss.html ] . So then I decided I would have to fix it myself.

I clearly screwed up but let me share what all I did first. I looked at the diagnostics for the car/ a 46RE being stuck in low speed/ 2nd and decided to adjust the front and back bands on the transmission, replace the governor pressure solenoid and sensor, replace the starter (for the startup issues), replace one of my cooler lines that was dripping at the radiator and cleane all the electrical connections. My question is what part of it I screwed up.

Firstly I do know my cooler lines are reattached poorly because the threads are stripped both in the hole and on the connecter and I managed to put them on anyway and thought it was pretty snug but it didn't work of course because I mean that was dumb, and they spray fluid of course. The O-ring probably also needs replaced at the connection with the radiator since it is still dripping a little.

​​​​​​Secondly there was no longer a startup issue so I guess that did have to do with the starter and not the CPS, however the dash is showing brake on even once it's off, says "R" when in "P" says nothing when in "R", will not go to "D" and will only skip to "2" and only drives in 1st (10mph or less/ jerking). Soooo, what did I break?

 

As an addition because I can't seem to get editing to work, I used CRC QD electronic cleaner to clean the connections. And I know it happens a lot so I would like to say I did turn the torque converter and line it up with the pins in the bell housing, so that shouldn't be the issue hopefully.

 

As an update I am thinking something went wrong when I replaced the governor sensor and solenoid because the diagnosis for no R and not 1-2 upshift is either the valve body or a governor failure. Either it is my broken 1-2 accumulator coil (I ordered it but I had not planned changing it and can't get one so I just put it back for the time being), or I put the valve body or solenoid back wrong.

However if it is the broken coil, then why was it not acting like this before? It had no 2-3 upshift, but did not have any issue reading position and could get out of 1st.

 

Is the trans range sensor mounted properly? Connector plugged in tight?

 

It looked seated well but I know the screws were a little messed up so I unplugged it, took it out, checked stuff over and put it back with replaced screws. It seems like it will pop out entirely without the screws holding it in even if I push it in well. I turned it back on and all positions appeared and were selected properly (when moving shifter the correct position was highlighted) but the vehicle now will not move at all.

 

How is fluid level? Bear in mind, gotta check in neutral, checking in park will give you an artificially high reading.

Will it move if you disconnect the 8 pin connector on the trans?

 

I refilled the transmission fluid (ATF+4) when I put everything back but it is undoubtedly low now since the cooler line is basically spraying fluid (I only drove it out if the driveway the first time because I didn't realize). I can't fix the cooler line attachment until I can go to the store later.

It does not move with the 8 pin disconnected (I just put a pan under the trans to catch the fluid and only ran it for a minute).

 

You still have a mechanical issue with the trans then.

 

So, it will probably need rebuilt entirely? I'm just super confused because the issue has changed entirely since when I first took the transmission out.

Thanks for responding btw I appreciate it. I guess next steps are fix the cooler line, check and refill fluid, and then I'll probably try taking off the pan/filter to inspect the valve body, maybe replacing the TRS/NSS before I try dropping the trans again because if I can not do that for a third time it'd really be great haha. My exhaust system blocks the trans too and is all welded together so I have to remove the entire exhaust system to drop it again lol.

 

Yeah, fixing the trans lines *may* help, but, I wouldn't hold my breath on that. I do believe it is indeed rebuild time. With 220K.... doesn't really come as a surprise.