I saw that on ebay too. It's got a couple of screws missing on the backside which make me wary. No answer from the guy either.

I would say that Mopar had to start with an ecu to make the Mopar Performance unit hence the regular ecu part number. The sticker lists the Mopar Performance number and those units were emissions exempt.

Can't have mine programmed as it is non working.

 

Don't need yours, that link I gave you, they have the units already. You supply your VIN and they program it accordingly. You can always call and ask them if they do the Mopar Performance programming as well, or just the stock programming? For the $267.00 you get a fully programmed unit shipped to your door. The units aren't new, they're reconditioned.

 

I'm pretty sure I checked their reviews and those made me look elsewhere. They are the first company to pop up any time you search for an ecu.

The main reason for the Mopar Performance computers was they were brand new, not used or rebuilt. The HP would have been a nice plus, the need for premium I could have put up with.

 

Nope. Do NOT buy from them. Their reputation is absolutely horrid. This guy has TWO posts here, both advocating for the same company. I should likely just ban him as a spammer.

 

Thanks for that. I actually bought a used ecu for $30 an hour away from me. Guy parts out Dodge trucks and he could vouch for it coming from a running truck. It was the same initial part number of P56040 but the last 3 were 888 I think and mine was 924. Put it in, but didn't start it as there was a wire dangling in front of the ecu and it turned out it was I'm pretty sure not factory. Had 2 resistors soldered inline. The wire came from the bundle that went into the plug on the right and ended up in the bundle by the plug on the left. The area of the resistor broke off right at the body from movement. I'm kind of figuring it has something to do with the 5 volt feed. If it's not one thing it's something else.

 

You have a total of 4 posts here, the one I'm now quoting and 3 others, all of which are promoting/advertising "autocomputerexchange."

https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/spam

spam: noun
spam: unsolicited usually commercial messages (such as emails, text messages, or Internet postings) sent to a large number of recipients or posted in a large number of places. spam: verb spammed; spamming: to send or post spam to
spammed customers with discount offers spamming a message board.

 

AAaaannnnd, he's history.

 

That's the way to take the trash out.

 

Still messing with this. I installed the known good ecu that I got for $30 and the van still doesn't start. Been watching a bunch of tube videos and decided to check and make sure I had a good 5v on the sensors. I disconnected both the crank and cam sensor one at a time and checked the connectors on the harness side and what I got is confusing me. Both connectors had 5v on the 2 outer pins. The center had none which is good as it's the ground. I can see 5v being supplied to the sensor, but why would there be 5v on the wire going back to the ecu. The voltage should have to go through the sensor in order for there to be voltage on that wire as I see it.

I also did the only check I could find on the crank sensor and it checked good. It was just an ohm reading between 2 pins which read open.

The check engine light does go off after a couple of seconds so that is a good sign.

 

Was that on both sensors???? I would be looking for a pinched harness somewhere.