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Transfer Case Fill Bolt Stuck - What's the Transfer Case Made of

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Old 03-29-2017, 11:42 PM
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Question Transfer Case Fill Bolt Stuck - What's the Transfer Case Made of

Hi all,

Today went to change the transfer case fluid on my 2000. I noticed the top fill bolt was almost sitting flush with the hole while the bottom was out about an 1/8 which is where they normally are. I tried removing the bolt after putting some Kroil penetrating oil, no go couldn't budge it either way. Tried a breaker bar. I was putting so much force I could see the transfer case moving. I then tried an impact gun back and forth no go. the hex hole is starting to look likes its about to spin. I took my MAP gas torch and gave it some heat for about 3 minutes and tried again, nothing.

Am I correct in assuming the transfer case is made of aluminum? If that is the case I can't put my Oxy/Acetylene torch to the case because that is too hot right?

Anyone have any ideas on what to try? Can't believe easy job turned to all day waste!
 
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Old 03-30-2017, 09:24 AM
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Yes, aluminum. Assuming you're talking about the large hex rear facing 'bolt' (about 1.5" across flats and 3/8" of threads when out), I'd say someone buggered it pretty well. Even if you get it out without cracking the back half of the case, you'd likely never be able to get it back in.

Further assuming the fluid change is regular maint, not some emergency, I'd leave it until I was prepared for the worst case scenario, to replace the back half.
 
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Old 03-30-2017, 10:50 PM
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Yup the top fill bolt, its flush with the case. Today I am trying this. I put a plastic cover and siliconed it to the case and filled with krill oil. Hoping that a few days of soaking will help this loosen up. Anyone else have any tips?

I am changing it for maintenance. Luckily I decided to start at the top bolt before the bottom.

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I saw a video on on youtube, where the guy torches an aluminum block to attach a nut to a few broken bolts. Wouldn't the transfer case be similar? The block seems to take the heat without any problems.

 
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Old 03-31-2017, 08:56 AM
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HEMI blocks are cast iron AFAIK, with aluminium heads. There is definitely a heat tolerance for aluminium before it warps and that will be dependent on many factors including the size of the part, the fluid (or air) that it touches and the shape of the material. Personally i wouldn't use too much heat on the aluminium.

I second the motion above to let it go until you are prepared to replace that part of the t-case housing this way if you force it out and it destroys the case you arent surprised by it and left high and dry with not transportation. The fluid in the t-case being old is unlikely to do any harm, consider this most people who have 4x4 suvs (your average soccer mom perhaps) dont even know that the t-cas needs to be serviced and they dont have any more issue than the rest of us.
 
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Old 04-04-2017, 12:41 PM
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Just wanted to update. So after driving the car around for a few days with the penetration oil covering the bolt I decided to give it another try.

I went to harbor freight and picked up some a long hex impact socket set. I figured that the tools would have a little more thickness because of the coating which should help with the slipping. I then took my impact and went back and forth a few times finally after about 5 times I felt the bolt give and then it was cake work.

Just wanted to update. So after driving the car around for a few days with the penetration oil covering the bolt I decided to give it another try.

I went to harbor freight and picked up some a long hex impact socket set. I figured that the tools would have a little more thickness because of the coating which should help with the slipping. I then took my impact and went back and forth a few times finally after about 5 times I felt the bolt give and then it was cake work.

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Old 04-04-2017, 02:03 PM
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congrats, now heres hoping you can get the bolt back in when you finish the job!
 
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Old 08-12-2018, 05:01 PM
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Default Does this look like a transfer case leak?

Just purchased an 08 Dakota Crew Cab. There is a slow leak, the skid plate is covered in oil... don't know a ton about trucks... but was hoping to gain some knowledge before I take it in to the shop. Appreciate any pointers you can offer.
Thanks







 

Last edited by handwedge; 08-12-2018 at 05:12 PM.
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Old 08-12-2018, 05:15 PM
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Invest in four of five cans of brake cleaner, and clean everything up good. (wear goggles, and a mask, that stuff is bad for you. doing it outside isn't a bad idea either.) See if you can isolate where the leak is coming from.

Don't use an impact on the fill plug..... might break something. (read that: Expensive lesson.) Get an allen head socket the right size, an appropriate extension, and a breaker bar to get it to break loose. After that, it comes out easy.
 
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Old 08-12-2018, 09:10 PM
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Thanks for the feedback. I'm hoping it just needs a new transmission pan gasket... I'll let you know what I find.
 




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