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lifting or tilting the cab questions

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Old Sep 15, 2016 | 10:26 AM
  #41  
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For the air cleaner I wanted to use one like this.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MoPAR-Perfor...RX1hZK&vxp=mtr

FWIW we have the 95 and 96 FSM available as a download in the FAQ section. I looked at the transmission R&R process. They have the standard, remove, transfer case, y-pipe, starter, etc, then remove transmission. Never any mention of lifting body etc.
So, I believe its not going to be necessary, or the 95 is made different.

And Ragged, do you remember if you used an 11in, or 12in. clutch?
Thanks
 
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Old Sep 15, 2016 | 10:37 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by 93 ragtop
For the air cleaner I wanted to use one like this.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MoPAR-Perfor...RX1hZK&vxp=mtr

FWIW we have the 95 and 96 FSM available as a download in the FAQ section. I looked at the transmission R&R process. They have the standard, remove, transfer case, y-pipe, starter, etc, then remove transmission. Never any mention of lifting body etc.
So, I believe its not going to be necessary, or the 95 is made different.

And Ragged, do you remember if you used an 11in, or 12in. clutch?
Thanks
Fwiw, that air cleaner sucks. No reason to have a hot air intake. Stock intake is 500% better then that waste of money. Looks better, but performs a lot less.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2016 | 11:03 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Toby Warford
Fwiw, that air cleaner sucks. No reason to have a hot air intake. Stock intake is 500% better then that waste of money. Looks better, but performs a lot less.



Ahh, to each his own. I want it for a clean look. And besides, I will have a holley 670 4bbl. Stock will not fit.
As far as performing less? Ill bet, you would be hard pressed to see 2hp difference between any of them on a stock or near stock motor.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2016 | 12:42 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by 93 ragtop
And Ragged, do you remember if you used an 11in, or 12in. clutch?
Thanks
Yes, it was an 11" clutch.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2016 | 12:48 PM
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Thanks Ragged.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2016 | 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by 93 ragtop


Ahh, to each his own. I want it for a clean look. And besides, I will have a holley 670 4bbl. Stock will not fit.
As far as performing less? Ill bet, you would be hard pressed to see 2hp difference between any of them on a stock or near stock motor.
Heh.

Super Chevy tested a few CAIs on a El Camino (70's vintage).

The first dyno pull was OK; but by the third, HP was down something like 100HP due to how hot the air coming in was (!!!!)

Just keep that in mind.

RwP
 
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Old Sep 15, 2016 | 05:52 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by RalphP
Heh.

Super Chevy tested a few CAIs on a El Camino (70's vintage).

The first dyno pull was OK; but by the third, HP was down something like 100HP due to how hot the air coming in was (!!!!)

Just keep that in mind.

RwP



Yeah, im sorry, I dont believe that there would be a 100 rwhp loss on a 70's el camino, that the addition of a CAI would correct. There is more to the story then that.
Care to share a link?
Also, please keep in mind we are talking about a 5.2-5.9 200-250 rwhp, (at best)
 
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Old Sep 15, 2016 | 11:19 PM
  #48  
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Other way around; the CAI COST them 100 HP. Albeit, it was a typical "CAI" that sucked air from the engine bay.

This was a built motor; first pull passed 700HP or so IIRC.

I'd love to find the link; I read it in the paper and didn't keep it (drats!)

OTOH, here's a review of several as-installed:

http://dailyderbi.com/cold-air-intakes-dont-work/

(Note: A lot of the magazines show that they work great ... on an engine dyno. Under the hood, on a hot summer day, after a pull or three ... not so good for most of them. And the fact that you quite often end up with LESS filter element on the cone style filter means that the motor has to work a small bit harder to suck in enough air. They do sound good, though.)

RwP
 
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Old Sep 15, 2016 | 11:34 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by RalphP
Other way around; the CAI COST them 100 HP. Albeit, it was a typical "CAI" that sucked air from the engine bay.

This was a built motor; first pull passed 700HP or so IIRC.

I'd love to find the link; I read it in the paper and didn't keep it (drats!)

OTOH, here's a review of several as-installed:

http://dailyderbi.com/cold-air-intakes-dont-work/

(Note: A lot of the magazines show that they work great ... on an engine dyno. Under the hood, on a hot summer day, after a pull or three ... not so good for most of them. And the fact that you quite often end up with LESS filter element on the cone style filter means that the motor has to work a small bit harder to suck in enough air. They do sound good, though.)

RwP
What the hell is the difference between loosing HP and something costing you HP? its the same thing!
 
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Old Sep 16, 2016 | 01:04 AM
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Originally Posted by RalphP
Other way around; the CAI COST them 100 HP. Albeit, it was a typical "CAI" that sucked air from the engine bay.

This was a built motor; first pull passed 700HP or so IIRC.

I'd love to find the link; I read it in the paper and didn't keep it (drats!)

OTOH, here's a review of several as-installed:

http://dailyderbi.com/cold-air-intakes-dont-work/

(Note: A lot of the magazines show that they work great ... on an engine dyno. Under the hood, on a hot summer day, after a pull or three ... not so good for most of them. And the fact that you quite often end up with LESS filter element on the cone style filter means that the motor has to work a small bit harder to suck in enough air. They do sound good, though.)

RwP
CAI designs are often less than optimal, and there is a drop off after the engine (i.e. the engine bay) warms up, simply because everything the air comes in contact with is now warmer than when the engine was first started. But the theory is sound, all other things being equal, anytime you can get colder (actually denser) air to the engine, horsepower will increase. The old rule of thumb is every 10 degree drop in temperature is worth approx. a 1% HP increase. So a 250 HP engine should see a roughly 2.5 HP increase if you can get a 10 degree temperature drop in the incoming air. I know 2.5 HP isn't much, but it's interesting to note that driving off cold in 30 degree air your engine should be making about 15 HP more than it does on a 90 degree summer day. You can notice the difference in power on a cold day, if you pay close attention.

I used to drag race, and under-hood temperature was so important that most of us would push our car thru the que and not start it until just before making a run down the track. We also used cool cans to ice down the fuel, and even packed dry ice around the intake to get a denser intake.

This was a favorite subject of mine for a time. I even designed a system to dump refrigerant from a standard automotive AC system into coils placed in an intake tube. The charge would last long enough for a run down the quarter mile, or wherever you happened to be . Later I found an article where some Ford engineers were experimenting with the same concept, and actually built a prototype.

Sorry for helping to side track your post 93RT. For all of my yapping I guess what I'm really saying is that most methods of getting seriously cooler air into the engine aren't practical on a street vehicle anyway. I think you'll be perfectly satisfied with the filter unit you've chosen.
 
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