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  #51  
Old 01-22-2019, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Azboyinmi
I still think you should try swapping out the distributor pickup and crank sensor tho
I can certainly try the Distributor pick up and CPS as they are not to expensive of a trial and error.

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  #52  
Old 01-22-2019, 10:32 AM
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I wouldn't use your dad's old wire... There's a good chance it's either too small or the wrong kind. I've got a roll on the shelf that's 10mm wire for a tractor, only problem is is it's not the suppression kind. So if your engines running and you grab the sucker it shock the holy Jesus out of you. You don't want to use wire like that
 
  #53  
Old 01-22-2019, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Azboyinmi
I wouldn't use your dad's old wire... There's a good chance it's either too small or the wrong kind. I've got a roll on the shelf that's 10mm wire for a tractor, only problem is is it's not the suppression kind. So if your engines running and you grab the sucker it shock the holy Jesus out of you. You don't want to use wire like that
I hear ya on that for sure the stuff has to be 60+ yrs old... It was mor of a funny than for actual suggestion..lol The old wire stuff sure does pack a punch as I remember from wayyyy back when I got the ZAP and have not had another one since (knock on wood).


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  #54  
Old 01-22-2019, 10:47 AM
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I wonder too, even though you replaced the coil, if you're spark is too weak. Their could be any number of issues... If your injector is spraying too much fuel into the cylinder it'll drown the plug. If you have carbon buildup on your injector port it could be spraying fuel directly onto the spark plugs and and drowning it. Same carbon buildup could cause the fuel to not atomize correctly.
now back to the coil, if you go aftermarket to an accel coil that puts out way more spark it might help with that, but if your wires are junk they extra spark won't help. At least not til you get them replaced.
But of course it might be the distributor pickup or crank sensor, no they aren't expensive but there's a difference between brands, someone did a write-up on all of them, don't remember who but it would take be hard to find.
Also you replaced your cap and rotor right? Please tell me you got the cap with the brass terminals! The brass transfers current way better than the aluminum terminals, plus the aluminum tends to corrode.
When you replace the crank sensor and distributor pickup make sure you check the wiring from the connectors back into the harness. I had an issue with my pickup wires, you could see where they had rubbed through just from vibration and the wires were touching base metal on occasion and the truck would run like crap
 
  #55  
Old 01-22-2019, 11:00 AM
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Hey so just re read everything and had a random idea. Have you tried swapping the 6 and 8 injector connectors? They're both right next to each other and should be about the same length. Just wondering.......
 
  #56  
Old 01-22-2019, 01:05 PM
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The bosch sensor may be at least part of the problem..... Something else to keep in mind, our trucks HATE aftermarket sensor in critical areas. Crank sensor being right at the top of the list.
 
  #57  
Old 01-22-2019, 01:56 PM
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Yeah Bosch sensors aren't the best for our trucks. They seem to like densos though.
id still swap those injector connections though. Just switch 6 and 8 connections and see what happens. Just don't drive it like that unless it seems to fix the problem
 
  #58  
Old 01-22-2019, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Azboyinmi
I wonder too, even though you replaced the coil, if you're spark is too weak. Their could be any number of issues... If your injector is spraying too much fuel into the cylinder it'll drown the plug. If you have carbon buildup on your injector port it could be spraying fuel directly onto the spark plugs and and drowning it. Same carbon buildup could cause the fuel to not atomize correctly.
now back to the coil, if you go aftermarket to an accel coil that puts out way more spark it might help with that, but if your wires are junk they extra spark won't help. At least not til you get them replaced.
But of course it might be the distributor pickup or crank sensor, no they aren't expensive but there's a difference between brands, someone did a write-up on all of them, don't remember who but it would take be hard to find.
Also you replaced your cap and rotor right? Please tell me you got the cap with the brass terminals! The brass transfers current way better than the aluminum terminals, plus the aluminum tends to corrode.
When you replace the crank sensor and distributor pickup make sure you check the wiring from the connectors back into the harness. I had an issue with my pickup wires, you could see where they had rubbed through just from vibration and the wires were touching base metal on occasion and the truck would run like crap
Injector #6 is brand new and when I had the head off I had the head off as I was not sure if I had blew the plenum gasket or head gasket as I had the thought maybe I blew the gasket between cyl 6 and 8 and thought the pressures were swapping from 6 and 8 but nope On either as both were good. So when I had the intake off I made sure all ports were clear.

Honestly I THINK it may be the aluminum ones but id have to check but yes brass or copper would be much better​​​​​​ brass being stronger of course.

I will deff check the wires for fray.

vizi
 
  #59  
Old 01-22-2019, 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Azboyinmi
Hey so just re read everything and had a random idea. Have you tried swapping the 6 and 8 injector connectors? They're both right next to each other and should be about the same length. Just wondering.......

Yes sir I swapped the new injector between 6 and 8.

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  #60  
Old 01-22-2019, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
The bosch sensor may be at least part of the problem..... Something else to keep in mind, our trucks HATE aftermarket sensor in critical areas. Crank sensor being right at the top of the list.

So you are suggesting crank sensor from dealer and denso O2 sensor from parts store?


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