Ok so about 2 weeks ago my wheel bearing failed. So I replaced and thought everything was good. 2 days later I heard the growl start again. Sure enough it was bad again. Replaced the inner and outter again. Fast foward to now maybe a week later and I take my cap off and their is metal shards from the bearing everywhere. What couple be causing this. Any help is appreciated

 

Heh. I'm having the same problem.

My first one was after many, many miles; the second was after hand-packing and not getting it right (I think.)

How did you pack the bearings? By hand? Did you use a packer?

What kind of grease?

How did you preload the bearing? Quoting from my 1988 Dakota FSM, page 5-38, "Tighten wheel bearing adjusting nut to 240-300 in. lbs. (27-34 Nm) while rotating disc and hub assembly. Recheck braking disc runout as described previously." (Step 2 of how to install a new rotor/hub assembly).

Beyond all else, may be time to replace the rotor/hub assembly; I had to do that this past week because the ouiter race had spun inside the hub and worn it down.

RwP

 

BTW - For the record, what is a spindle for most vehicles is two parts on our trucks - a spindle proper, and a steering arm. Boneyard will sell you both together, though.

The STEERING ARM (which is where the tie rod end bolts) changed during production (87-90, 91-96 non-ABS, whenever-96 ABS), but the SPINDLE (with the mounts for the calipers and the cone the bearings go on) was the same part number, 87-96. So if you need a new spindle, you can take a later one and unbolt the steering arms and swap them. Be SURE to lock tite the sucker out of them, though! Upper ball joint goes into the spindle; I'm not sure, I THINK the steering arm has the mount for the lower ball joint, but that may also be part of the spindle.

RwP

 

Ok so I did that by hand. I cut out a piece of wood and tapped them in with that. I just used a multi purpose Greese because that is what they said to use. Now I’m looking at my manual and it’s tellinh me it’s saying 85-110 lb. (115-149 N•m). I can’t tell if they are talking about the axel nut or lug nuts though I’m gonna attach a picture. Thanks for the help btw

 

Did you change the bearing races as well?

The 85-110 ft/lb torque spec is for unit bearings, not the replaceable fellers. I use the bearing packer tool, but, I also put a fair bit more grease on the bearing, the race, and also some inside the hub. (rotor) put the whole thing on the spindle shaft, and thread the nut on BY HAND, as tight as I can get it. Spin the rotor, and turn the nut some more. Once I have everything completely seated, I will give the nut an 1/8th to 1/4 turn preload, and lock it in place.

 

85-110 lb/ft is the lug nut torque (100 lb/ft is perfect for most vehicles out there.)

Did you also replace the races but keep the old hub? Might need to replace the hub and rotor this time; the ones I've been buying (Bendix and DuraLast - don't laugh, when you're broke down on the side of the highway you'll take ANY brand almost!) come with races.

I DID stick with National brand bearings.

I'd use a bearing packer ... the one I use cost me $8 at O'Reilly's, so well worth it IMO. I pack the outer first (forcing grease in until it's coming out the rollers), then the inner (since the inner is bigger), then I also lube up the races and make sure to coat the outside of the bearings and the shaft with the excess grease from the packing.

A metal shaving sounds like the hub's coming apart on you to me.

RwP

 

Also, is that the Chrysler logo'ed factory service manual, or a Haynes or Chiltons? What year is your truck?

RwP

 

Thanks for your help bud I’m bout to give it a go right now I have a feeling I need a new hub as well at this point.. but I was also torguing that nut on as hard as I could.. I work on houses not cars lol.. I’m gonna grab a packer while I’m out as well cause I ain’t trying to do this **** again.. I got a 93 2wd with 3.9. And yes it’s the original manual also have the sound system book that came with it

 

That's why you were munching up bearings. They don't need to be really tight, just so long as there is no slop, and then just a bit of pre-load.

 

Yeah that’ll prolly do it.. now should I replace the inner and outer again or just do the outer