95 Dakota 5.2L 2WD - Inner Tie Rods
#1
95 Dakota 5.2L 2WD - Inner Tie Rods
Hello,
Does the 92-96 Dakota with the 5.2L 2WD have inner tie rods? I was told from a shop here that they need replacing, but when I look at the service manual it doesn't appear to
show any in the diagram. It looks like the outers are directly screwed into the rack.
I'm going to have a go at this myself, just want to know before hand if anyone's replaced the inners on this vehicle and if they actually exist.
Thanks!
Does the 92-96 Dakota with the 5.2L 2WD have inner tie rods? I was told from a shop here that they need replacing, but when I look at the service manual it doesn't appear to
show any in the diagram. It looks like the outers are directly screwed into the rack.
I'm going to have a go at this myself, just want to know before hand if anyone's replaced the inners on this vehicle and if they actually exist.
Thanks!
#2
The outers screw into the inners, which screw into the rack.
I had to use the "tie rod tool" I rented from O'Reilly's to get mine out.
Also, I'd order new bellows and replace them.
If you're also doing outers, consider taking the tie rods out as a set (inner and outer, leave them set as they are) then adjust the new pair to the same length so it's close when you get it in; makes it easier to drive to the alignment shop.
In the FSM, pages 19-34 and 19-35 calls out the inner tie rod (figure 4 on page 19-34) and shows it in more detail (figure 5 on page 19-35). It doesn't show replacing it; it was part of the rack assembly at Chrysler. But they ARE available.
Yes, I've replaced the inners; I currently have some ACDelco ones on my 1988 Dakota 2WD, have about 40,000 miles on them, and have about 1/4" total slack in the steering wheel (say 5° or so) and THAT may be due to a missing set screw in my intermediate shaft (the coupler on the rack rocks slightly due to the set screw having worked out while I was driving. Yes, I'm going to replace it. With over 3/4" engagement, no, it's not coming off.)
Here's a YouTube on doing it on a 2nd Gen Dakota; however, the sequence is the same.
RwP
I had to use the "tie rod tool" I rented from O'Reilly's to get mine out.
Also, I'd order new bellows and replace them.
If you're also doing outers, consider taking the tie rods out as a set (inner and outer, leave them set as they are) then adjust the new pair to the same length so it's close when you get it in; makes it easier to drive to the alignment shop.
In the FSM, pages 19-34 and 19-35 calls out the inner tie rod (figure 4 on page 19-34) and shows it in more detail (figure 5 on page 19-35). It doesn't show replacing it; it was part of the rack assembly at Chrysler. But they ARE available.
Yes, I've replaced the inners; I currently have some ACDelco ones on my 1988 Dakota 2WD, have about 40,000 miles on them, and have about 1/4" total slack in the steering wheel (say 5° or so) and THAT may be due to a missing set screw in my intermediate shaft (the coupler on the rack rocks slightly due to the set screw having worked out while I was driving. Yes, I'm going to replace it. With over 3/4" engagement, no, it's not coming off.)
Here's a YouTube on doing it on a 2nd Gen Dakota; however, the sequence is the same.
RwP
#3
The outers screw into the inners, which screw into the rack.
I had to use the "tie rod tool" I rented from O'Reilly's to get mine out.
Also, I'd order new bellows and replace them.
If you're also doing outers, consider taking the tie rods out as a set (inner and outer, leave them set as they are) then adjust the new pair to the same length so it's close when you get it in; makes it easier to drive to the alignment shop.
In the FSM, pages 19-34 and 19-35 calls out the inner tie rod (figure 4 on page 19-34) and shows it in more detail (figure 5 on page 19-35). It doesn't show replacing it; it was part of the rack assembly at Chrysler. But they ARE available.
Yes, I've replaced the inners; I currently have some ACDelco ones on my 1988 Dakota 2WD, have about 40,000 miles on them, and have about 1/4" total slack in the steering wheel (say 5° or so) and THAT may be due to a missing set screw in my intermediate shaft (the coupler on the rack rocks slightly due to the set screw having worked out while I was driving. Yes, I'm going to replace it. With over 3/4" engagement, no, it's not coming off.)
Here's a YouTube on doing it on a 2nd Gen Dakota; however, the sequence is the same.
RwP
I had to use the "tie rod tool" I rented from O'Reilly's to get mine out.
Also, I'd order new bellows and replace them.
If you're also doing outers, consider taking the tie rods out as a set (inner and outer, leave them set as they are) then adjust the new pair to the same length so it's close when you get it in; makes it easier to drive to the alignment shop.
In the FSM, pages 19-34 and 19-35 calls out the inner tie rod (figure 4 on page 19-34) and shows it in more detail (figure 5 on page 19-35). It doesn't show replacing it; it was part of the rack assembly at Chrysler. But they ARE available.
Yes, I've replaced the inners; I currently have some ACDelco ones on my 1988 Dakota 2WD, have about 40,000 miles on them, and have about 1/4" total slack in the steering wheel (say 5° or so) and THAT may be due to a missing set screw in my intermediate shaft (the coupler on the rack rocks slightly due to the set screw having worked out while I was driving. Yes, I'm going to replace it. With over 3/4" engagement, no, it's not coming off.)
Here's a YouTube on doing it on a 2nd Gen Dakota; however, the sequence is the same.
RwP
Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. For some reason I didn't notice that. I see it in the FSM now.
I have the replacement inner tie rods, but two things concern me here:
1) No installation torque I can find. Do you have this somewhere? I have a Haynes manual as well that doesn't list any installation torque.
2) There is a little note that says: "Servicing the rubber boot must be done with the steering gear removed from the vehicle". Good God, does this mean I need to remove the entire rack and pinion? Or did you manage to replace the bellows without it?
Thanks!
#4
1) I used red Loktite brand thread locker on the threads and used the German gudantite on mine. That's as opposed to the UggaDugga method
2) Rack stayed on the truck, but I used some skinny 11" zip ties to fasten the inner side.The outer I left loose until I had the alignment; then I used some 4" zip ties to hold that side.
Biggest problem on the truck is getting the vent tube in and lined up. Helps if you can curse in a few other languages
RwP
2) Rack stayed on the truck, but I used some skinny 11" zip ties to fasten the inner side.The outer I left loose until I had the alignment; then I used some 4" zip ties to hold that side.
Biggest problem on the truck is getting the vent tube in and lined up. Helps if you can curse in a few other languages
RwP
#5
1) I used red Loktite brand thread locker on the threads and used the German gudantite on mine. That's as opposed to the UggaDugga method
2) Rack stayed on the truck, but I used some skinny 11" zip ties to fasten the inner side.The outer I left loose until I had the alignment; then I used some 4" zip ties to hold that side.
Biggest problem on the truck is getting the vent tube in and lined up. Helps if you can curse in a few other languages
RwP
2) Rack stayed on the truck, but I used some skinny 11" zip ties to fasten the inner side.The outer I left loose until I had the alignment; then I used some 4" zip ties to hold that side.
Biggest problem on the truck is getting the vent tube in and lined up. Helps if you can curse in a few other languages
RwP
Nice to know I don't have to take the rack off. I'd prefer it stay put truth be told. I bought new Moog bellows and they come with zip ties, so that will be the approach going forward!
I think I'm going to have many chances to learn swearing in different languages on this truck LOL!
The following users liked this post:
tndakman (08-10-2020)
#7
I deal with a lot of Russian truck drivers and I've found that Russian is a good language to be rude in and quite satisfying when you use it to cuss. Responding in Russian will also stop a driver getting snotty with you.
Last edited by ol' grouch; 08-10-2020 at 06:52 PM. Reason: i kant spel wurth a durn.
The following users liked this post:
RalphP (08-11-2020)
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