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  #111  
Old 10-19-2021, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Does the pneumatic feller try and suck fluid out the bleeder, or push it thru the master cylinder?

One problem I have found with the 'suck' fellers is, the threads on the bleeder valve to not seal real well. Especially if they are new, or, you clean them up to good. A bit of teflon tape solves that issue.
Wow, you've been down this road before because I admit I was concerned about the bleeder screw being loose too. Yes, it's a vacuum bleeder that sucks at the bleeder screw. One thing I noticed (yes, they are brand new wheel cylinders) is that bleeder screw wobbles a bit even when opened a half turn to allow the fluid to pass. Maybe I should tape it and try again, no?
 
  #112  
Old 10-19-2021, 02:40 PM
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Yep, worth a shot.

I really like the pressure bleeders that replace the m/c cover. Back when m/cs were actually cast iron.
 
  #113  
Old 10-19-2021, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Yep, worth a shot.
I'm on it. Back I go.

As a famous Dodge Forum member once said, "Eliminate what you can, what's left is what's wrong".
 
  #114  
Old 10-19-2021, 03:35 PM
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It was definitely getting less air. It was about 90% air before. Taping the fitting reduced it closer to 50%. Still lots of air though.

I measured the bleeder nipples on the rear wheel cylinders vs the front caliper. The rear wheel cylinder nipple measures .240" in width. The front caliper nipple measures .300" wide. The hex head on the rear is 5/16". The hex head on the front is 3/8". My point is maybe that sucker end is too loose on that rear nipple. The rear nipple is quite a bit smaller than the front nipple and perhaps that rubber end on the sucker is better suited for the larger nipple. Maybe I can find some aquarium tube around this place and see if I can rig something. Otherwise, I wait for the two-person bleed.
 
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Old 10-19-2021, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by bronze
It was definitely getting less air. It was about 90% air before. Taping the fitting reduced it closer to 50%. Still lots of air though.

I measured the bleeder nipples on the rear wheel cylinders vs the front caliper. The rear wheel cylinder nipple measures .240" in width. The front caliper nipple measures .300" wide. The hex head on the rear is 5/16". The hex head on the front is 3/8". My point is maybe that sucker end is too loose on that rear nipple. The rear nipple is quite a bit smaller than the front nipple and perhaps that rubber end on the sucker is better suited for the larger nipple. Maybe I can find some aquarium tube around this place and see if I can rig something. Otherwise, I wait for the two-person bleed.
No go. I found some clear 5/16" aquarium tube. Cut a 6" hunk off it. Pulled that cheesy black rubber thingy off the end of the sucker and replaced it with my aquarium tube. Pushed the other end of the aqua tube on the bleeder nipple. Nice tight fits both ends. Still got lots of air. 100% of it came out the nipple. None came around the aqua tube. It's clear so I could see clearly. I'm thinking this pneumatic bleeder is fine. The air is coming from some place else.
 
  #116  
Old 10-19-2021, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Grab another warm body. Put 'em in the drivers seat. Crack open the right rear bleeder, just enough to allow it to pass fluid. Stick your finger over the end of the hole on the bleeder, and have your warm body pump the brakes.

You *should* be able to FEEL the pressure/release as the brakes are pumped. It should also blow fluid past your finger. The idea of having your finger over the hole, is to act as a 'one way' valve. So it can pump fluid thru the system, but, can't suck air back into it.

See what happens.
OK, I did this. It does exactly as you say. Brake pedal is pumped, pressure/fluid spit out.

So what does this tell me? The MC is working?
 
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Old 10-19-2021, 05:16 PM
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You can feel the air coming out as well. Have your warm body simply continue pumping until you aren't getting any more air. (watch the fluid level in the M/C though.) Then move on to the next wheel.
 
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Old 10-19-2021, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
You can feel the air coming out as well. Have your warm body simply continue pumping until you aren't getting any more air. (watch the fluid level in the M/C though.) Then move on to the next wheel.
OK, let me get this straight.

Open bleeder
Put finger on opening
Pump brake, let air/fluid spit out.
Cover hole
Pump brake, let air/fluid spit out
Cover Hole
Rinse
Repeat

How will I know when the air is all out? To me. the thing just spits out fluid. How much of it is air I do not know. And how does this differ from the traditional 2-person-pump three times-hold-bleed-close method?

(That pneumatic bleeder comes with a feed bottle for the reservoir...probably 1-1/2ish pints)
 
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Old 10-19-2021, 07:44 PM
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Just hold your finger over the hole, the fluid/air will push it out of the way. You should be able to feel the air in fluid stream, when you don't feel it any more, move on to the next wheel. Do all four, pump the brakes a few times, see how they feel.

 
  #120  
Old 10-19-2021, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Just hold your finger over the hole, the fluid/air will push it out of the way. You should be able to feel the air in fluid stream, when you don't feel it any more, move on to the next wheel. Do all four, pump the brakes a few times, see how they feel.
OK. I hooked up that 6" piece of clear tube to the bleeder so I could see what was coming out. Just covered the end of the tube with my finger. Figured out the rhythm pretty quickly. Pumped thru 16+ ounces. Still full of air. Would get a few weak pumps that was mostly foam then back to stronger pumps with large air bubbles. It's sick. So is my wife's leg.

What haven't we eliminated other than re-flaring? I did pick up that Titan double flaring tool tonight. I can see just by looking at it that it is better than that hunk of crap I used from Advanced Auto.
 


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