Brakes
#122
Before I forget and if it comes down to re-flaring my brake lines I have another question.
I think I know generally how the brake system works but I’m not taking any chances. If I’m trying to solve the air coming thru the right rear wheel ONLY, do I re-flare both rear brake lines AND the feed line that connects to the rear center brake hose?
in other words, could the air source fouling up my right rear be coming from faulty flares in the front?
If I re-flare, I’d like to test it after doing the back five flares before moving on to the front.
I think I know generally how the brake system works but I’m not taking any chances. If I’m trying to solve the air coming thru the right rear wheel ONLY, do I re-flare both rear brake lines AND the feed line that connects to the rear center brake hose?
in other words, could the air source fouling up my right rear be coming from faulty flares in the front?
If I re-flare, I’d like to test it after doing the back five flares before moving on to the front.
#123
Front and rear are completely separate. So, cross-contamination just isn't an issue. Unless the master cylinder has failed..... But, if it was working fine before you opened the system, no reason to believe that it is bad now.
As for where the air is coming from, that is a VERY good question. Even if it were a bad flare, those usually don't show up until you actually have some real pressure on the system..... To draw the amount of air you are seeing, at least one of them would have to be REALLY bad.
Recheck all connections on the rear circuit. Make sure everything is tight. (yeah, I've made that blunder before......)
As for where the air is coming from, that is a VERY good question. Even if it were a bad flare, those usually don't show up until you actually have some real pressure on the system..... To draw the amount of air you are seeing, at least one of them would have to be REALLY bad.
Recheck all connections on the rear circuit. Make sure everything is tight. (yeah, I've made that blunder before......)
#124
Originally Posted by HeyYou;[url=tel:3527657
3527657[/url]]Front and rear are completely separate. So, cross-contamination just isn't an issue. Unless the master cylinder has failed..... But, if it was working fine before you opened the system, no reason to believe that it is bad now.
As for where the air is coming from, that is a VERY good question. Even if it were a bad flare, those usually don't show up until you actually have some real pressure on the system..... To draw the amount of air you are seeing, at least one of them would have to be REALLY bad.
Recheck all connections on the rear circuit. Make sure everything is tight. (yeah, I've made that blunder before......)
As for where the air is coming from, that is a VERY good question. Even if it were a bad flare, those usually don't show up until you actually have some real pressure on the system..... To draw the amount of air you are seeing, at least one of them would have to be REALLY bad.
Recheck all connections on the rear circuit. Make sure everything is tight. (yeah, I've made that blunder before......)
Not sure what to do next. A bad flare wouldn’t seem to cause that much air would it? Unless collectively they’re all bad.
#125
Originally Posted by bronze;[url=tel:3527660
3527660[/url]]That’s exactly what I did about a half hour ago. Checked to be sure all my connections were tight. They were. I do have a slight problem getting to the wheel cylinder flange nuts. They do not protrude far enough out to get a good grip on them with a straight flange wrench. Looked for an offset flange wrench and cannot find one. Also practiced some double flares with the new Titan tool. Day and night difference vs the bar clamp style. Have to shorten the distance 1/16” for nicop to work though. Pays to read the reviews.
Not sure what to do next. A bad flare wouldn’t seem to cause that much air would it? Unless collectively they’re all bad.
Not sure what to do next. A bad flare wouldn’t seem to cause that much air would it? Unless collectively they’re all bad.
#126
That’s exactly what I did about a half hour ago. Checked to be sure all my connections were tight. They were. I do have a slight problem getting to the wheel cylinder flange nuts. They do not protrude far enough out to get a good grip on them with a straight flange wrench. Looked for an offset flange wrench and cannot find one. Also practiced some double flares with the new Titan tool. Day and night difference vs the bar clamp style. Have to shorten the distance 1/16” for nicop to work though. Pays to read the reviews.
Not sure what to do next. A bad flare wouldn’t seem to cause that much air would it? Unless collectively they’re all bad.
Not sure what to do next. A bad flare wouldn’t seem to cause that much air would it? Unless collectively they’re all bad.
The master cylinder isn't drawing air around where the reservoir plugs into it, is it? (is it a plastic reservoir??)
#128
#129
Have one line reflared. In progress with the second line. Then one more flare on the main brake line that comes from the front. Upon inspection, those flares did not even go all around the end of the flare nut.
I don’t know if this will resolve the issue. I’m in your camp that says there’s too much air coming thru to just be a bad flare. OTOH, I’m downright ashamed of those flares and it will always bother me so I may as well re-do them and put my mind to rest. If it still sucks air then I can at least eliminate the flares as the problem.
Eliminate what you can, what’s left is what’s wrong.
#130