Brakes
#101
10-18-2021, 08:30 PM
Originally Posted by RalphP;[url=tel:3527556
3527556[/url]]Knowing it's Mopar, it's more like "Was it put together by Charles with a red plaid shirt, Luis with the blue plaid shirt, or Charles with the green plaid shirt?"
Mopar used to be horrible about using umpteen part numbers for the exact same part, except it wasn't the exact same part ...
RwP
Mopar used to be horrible about using umpteen part numbers for the exact same part, except it wasn't the exact same part ...
RwP
Looked at that Titan. Nice! Should have got that one from the jump.
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RalphP (10-18-2021)
#102
10-19-2021, 12:31 PM
Bleeding Operation: FAIL!
Ran 1.75 quarts through the system and still sucking large majority of air. Probably collected aprox 1.25 quarts in the bleeder container. So there's still about a 0.5 quarts in the system somewheres. My main suspect as mentioned previously are those double flares made with that cheap piece of crap tool I rented from Advanced Auto. The more I researched that tool the less I like it. Gets horrible reviews as do all those clamp bar style flaring tools. I know I was underwhelmed with the quality of flare that junk made and I'm not a mechanic. Too flat, not much of a bubble around it. So I'm going to run to O'Reilly's tonight when the wife gets home and get one of those Titan double flaring tools and redo all my flares. $@#!*&%&^*!
QUESTION SECTION:
1. I know that bleeder doesn't draw much air but would I see any leakage coming from a bad flare connection? I'm seeing none though I expect I wouldn't from low psi vacuuming...under pressure like in a properly operating brake system, yes.
2. That Titan double flaring tool says it's not recommended for stainless steel tubing. I re-flared two existing brake lines and plan to do it again once I get the Titan (there are three other lines I replaced completely using copper-nickel). Are my Dakota brake lines made of stainless steel? Just wondering...they gave me a stainless steel exhaust system I would not have expected.
Ran 1.75 quarts through the system and still sucking large majority of air. Probably collected aprox 1.25 quarts in the bleeder container. So there's still about a 0.5 quarts in the system somewheres. My main suspect as mentioned previously are those double flares made with that cheap piece of crap tool I rented from Advanced Auto. The more I researched that tool the less I like it. Gets horrible reviews as do all those clamp bar style flaring tools. I know I was underwhelmed with the quality of flare that junk made and I'm not a mechanic. Too flat, not much of a bubble around it. So I'm going to run to O'Reilly's tonight when the wife gets home and get one of those Titan double flaring tools and redo all my flares. $@#!*&%&^*!
QUESTION SECTION:
1. I know that bleeder doesn't draw much air but would I see any leakage coming from a bad flare connection? I'm seeing none though I expect I wouldn't from low psi vacuuming...under pressure like in a properly operating brake system, yes.
2. That Titan double flaring tool says it's not recommended for stainless steel tubing. I re-flared two existing brake lines and plan to do it again once I get the Titan (there are three other lines I replaced completely using copper-nickel). Are my Dakota brake lines made of stainless steel? Just wondering...they gave me a stainless steel exhaust system I would not have expected.
#103
10-19-2021, 12:40 PM
How are you bleeding the brakes?
Nope, your original brake lines were just plain ol' steel. That's why the rust out, break, and are VERY difficult to get them to unscrew, without disintegrating.
Stainless from the factory would have saved us all a BUNCH of work. Of course, the truck would have cost more too.....
Nope, your original brake lines were just plain ol' steel. That's why the rust out, break, and are VERY difficult to get them to unscrew, without disintegrating.
Stainless from the factory would have saved us all a BUNCH of work. Of course, the truck would have cost more too.....
#104
10-19-2021, 12:52 PM
How are you bleeding the brakes?
Nope, your original brake lines were just plain ol' steel. That's why the rust out, break, and are VERY difficult to get them to unscrew, without disintegrating. Stainless from the factory would have saved us all a BUNCH of work. Of course, the truck would have cost more too.....
Nope, your original brake lines were just plain ol' steel. That's why the rust out, break, and are VERY difficult to get them to unscrew, without disintegrating.
Stainless from the factory would have saved us all a BUNCH of work. Of course, the truck would have cost more too.....
Starting with the right rear.I have little/no corrosion on my brake lines. But to be fair, I have that spring-like rock guard protecting the line so I suspect it protects it from corrosion to a significant degree too. OTOH, my lines snapped when unscrewing the flare nuts.
#105
10-19-2021, 01:32 PM
After being together for so long, the nuts tend to 'become one' with the lines. I usually have to work 'em back and forth a bit, with generous use of chemicals to get them to actually break loose. Other times, I just cut them off, replace them, and re-flare the line. (sometimes, that method is faster..... )
Close up the system, and pump up the brakes. (if they will....) How does it feel? If it's spongey, that's air. If there is a lot of pedal travel before the brakes start doing anything, but, otherwise the pedal is solid, thats a rear brake adjustment.
I would also hold some serious pressure on it for 15-20 seconds, and then inspect all the joints/nuts, and see if you have any leaks.
)Close up the system, and pump up the brakes. (if they will....) How does it feel? If it's spongey, that's air. If there is a lot of pedal travel before the brakes start doing anything, but, otherwise the pedal is solid, thats a rear brake adjustment.
I would also hold some serious pressure on it for 15-20 seconds, and then inspect all the joints/nuts, and see if you have any leaks.
#106
10-19-2021, 01:35 PM
After being together for so long, the nuts tend to 'become one' with the lines. I usually have to work 'em back and forth a bit, with generous use of chemicals to get them to actually break loose. Other times, I just cut them off, replace them, and re-flare the line. (sometimes, that method is faster..... )
Close up the system, and pump up the brakes. (if they will....) How does it feel? If it's spongey, that's air. If there is a lot of pedal travel before the brakes start doing anything, but, otherwise the pedal is solid, thats a rear brake adjustment.
I would also hold some serious pressure on it for 15-20 seconds, and then inspect all the joints/nuts, and see if you have any leaks.
)Close up the system, and pump up the brakes. (if they will....) How does it feel? If it's spongey, that's air. If there is a lot of pedal travel before the brakes start doing anything, but, otherwise the pedal is solid, thats a rear brake adjustment.
I would also hold some serious pressure on it for 15-20 seconds, and then inspect all the joints/nuts, and see if you have any leaks.
#107
10-19-2021, 01:46 PM
After being together for so long, the nuts tend to 'become one' with the lines. I usually have to work 'em back and forth a bit, with generous use of chemicals to get them to actually break loose. Other times, I just cut them off, replace them, and re-flare the line. (sometimes, that method is faster..... )
Close up the system, and pump up the brakes. (if they will....) How does it feel? If it's spongey, that's air. If there is a lot of pedal travel before the brakes start doing anything, but, otherwise the pedal is solid, thats a rear brake adjustment.
I would also hold some serious pressure on it for 15-20 seconds, and then inspect all the joints/nuts, and see if you have any leaks.
)Close up the system, and pump up the brakes. (if they will....) How does it feel? If it's spongey, that's air. If there is a lot of pedal travel before the brakes start doing anything, but, otherwise the pedal is solid, thats a rear brake adjustment.
I would also hold some serious pressure on it for 15-20 seconds, and then inspect all the joints/nuts, and see if you have any leaks.
#108
10-19-2021, 01:55 PM
Grab another warm body. Put 'em in the drivers seat. Crack open the right rear bleeder, just enough to allow it to pass fluid. Stick your finger over the end of the hole on the bleeder, and have your warm body pump the brakes.
You *should* be able to FEEL the pressure/release as the brakes are pumped. It should also blow fluid past your finger. The idea of having your finger over the hole, is to act as a 'one way' valve. So it can pump fluid thru the system, but, can't suck air back into it.
See what happens.
You *should* be able to FEEL the pressure/release as the brakes are pumped. It should also blow fluid past your finger. The idea of having your finger over the hole, is to act as a 'one way' valve. So it can pump fluid thru the system, but, can't suck air back into it.
See what happens.
#109
10-19-2021, 02:17 PM
Grab another warm body. Put 'em in the drivers seat. Crack open the right rear bleeder, just enough to allow it to pass fluid. Stick your finger over the end of the hole on the bleeder, and have your warm body pump the brakes.
You *should* be able to FEEL the pressure/release as the brakes are pumped. It should also blow fluid past your finger. The idea of having your finger over the hole, is to act as a 'one way' valve. So it can pump fluid thru the system, but, can't suck air back into it.
See what happens.
You *should* be able to FEEL the pressure/release as the brakes are pumped. It should also blow fluid past your finger. The idea of having your finger over the hole, is to act as a 'one way' valve. So it can pump fluid thru the system, but, can't suck air back into it.
See what happens.
Mrs Warm Body gets home in 2-3 hours so I'll borrow her leg when she gets home. The thought that the pneumatic bleeder not sealing all the way has entered my mind. Especially at the end where it goes on the bleeder nipple. Did eventually put a little syl glyde on the nipple but made no difference.
#110
10-19-2021, 02:25 PM
Does the pneumatic feller try and suck fluid out the bleeder, or push it thru the master cylinder?
One problem I have found with the 'suck' fellers is, the threads on the bleeder valve to not seal real well. Especially if they are new, or, you clean them up to good. A bit of teflon tape solves that issue.
One problem I have found with the 'suck' fellers is, the threads on the bleeder valve to not seal real well. Especially if they are new, or, you clean them up to good.
A bit of teflon tape solves that issue.