Thanks for the sway bar lessons. I needed it.

OK, here are my results:

1) Removed both sway bar end links. Put truck back on the floor. Turned wheels and there is still creaking when I turn the wheels WITH the brake applied (none or very little without the brake applied). In other words, removing the end links made no difference. However, I did find the end link mounting hole on the right side sway bar is way out of line from the companion mounting hole on the control arm. By about an inch. Meanwhile, the same mounting holes on the left side line up perfectly straight up and down. So sumpin' is bent...sway bar or control arm. Only way to know is to pull the sway bar and get in on a flat surface and start measuring and comparing stuff...a job for when I change out the sway bar bushings. But for purposes of finding the creaking, it makes no difference if the end links are installed or removed.

2) With the end links still removed, I raised the front end of the truck to get the wheels off the ground. I applied the brake and turned the wheels. NO creaking noise.

Based on all of this, the only time I get the creaking is when the brake is applied AND the wheels are on the ground thereby pinning the wheel from rolling. Not certain I understand that because it will creak pulling in and out of parking spots with no brake applied. Maybe I'm full of it and will have to pay more attention when pulling in and out of parking spaces to see if in fact it ONLY happens if I have the brake applied. Very possible. I'll try doing it with no brake pedal next time and see what happens.

Fellas, this isn't related to the sway bar, balljoints, tie rods, end links, or front bearings. All that stuff is brand new. About all that remains is the control arms. I got my face in those LCA bushings and I am seeing no damage around the bushings. There's 1/8ish" of rubber sticking out the end of all sides of the bushings and it all looks proper and intact. No obvious flopping, slipping, twisting, or anything. Now, is the creaking originating from the control arm or the brakes?? That I do not know but it is hard to believe it's the brakes. Those are brand new too and this creaking noise happened before and after I replaced the brakes. This creaking noise sounds like metal on metal, not brake pads stuttering on the rotors. Lastly, I inspected the upper control arm bushings too. Not only do they look perfectly fine, they're very clean (no corrosion) and I changed those out some 12 years ago so they have 16 less years of wear on them than the LCA bushings.

Running out of ideas. Any thoughts?

 

I think this is another occasion where a second body is going to be required..... Have your warm body turn the wheels, while you go exploring for where the noise is coming from. Bribe the wife? Offer to take her out for dinner?

 

I like how HeyYou is thinking ... just be sure that when you take her out, go to an expensive place.

Like Wendy's or McDonald's.

And remember, or it didn't happen.

RwP

 

You guys are a lotta help.

 

 

I’m going to replace the sway bar bushings (even though the ones on there now look perectly fine). I’m going to replace the end links too because the ones I put on are cheap Chinesium crap. I see Energy Suspension sells sway bushings as a kit…comes with bushings AND end links. While I have the bar off the truck I am going to inspect it closely for bends. If it is bent I’m not sure how to unbend it yet. That’s not a wimpy bar but I suppose I’ll figger it out. I’m kinda hoping it is bent cuz if it’s not then it tells me maybe the LCA is. That wouldn’t be good. I would think if that LCA was bent it would chew thru those LCA bushings. That has not been the case. I did graphite the snot out of those LCA bushings. Made no difference. For all I know the creaking is coming from a cab bushing or a leaf spring or shock or coil or rack or sumpin’. I give up for now or until it blows up or when my OCD gets triggered.

oh, and I did have the wife turning the wheel whilst I listened. Too much engine noise.

 

Hhhmmm..... Maybe if you unload the front a little bit with a jack, so you don't need the power steering, and can leave the engine off, it would work?

 

That’s an idea!

 

I’m not at this point yet but could be. If I change out lower control arm bushings do I need to take the arms to a machine shop to get the old bushings removed and new ones pressed in? I ask because I’m speculating those bushings could be a real PITA…southern climate, garage-kept notwithstanding.

 

There are other ways to remove the bushings.

is one way to.

If replacing with poly, you want to leave the shells in; if using rubber, then when the shells are empty a few minutes with an air chisel will remove the shell (beaten into submission, just about literally.)

Before I found that, I used a MAPP torch to heat the rubber up until it turned loose from the old shell.

RwP