Maybe. Yeah, that's helpful....

I could see them loosening up over time, simply due to the bushings wearing in. But, from 150 to 50 ft/lbs? That seems a bit excessive......

 

I'm taking the truck in Thursday and will have Frank or Mike (my mechanic) take a look at it. I'll pay them for a diagnosis only, no work at this time. This is a problem I'm beginning to think needs a pro who can stand (not lay) under the truck and get his face into it. I'm not a mechanic and it's ridiculous and unfair to expect brainiacs like Ralph and HY to solve all problems for me from 700 miles away without the opportunity to see the truck. They have to rely on my idiocy to tell them what I'm observing audiovisually. I've been around long enough to know how that works. My friend calls me from Florida asking how to fix his wash machine, dishwasher, disposal, A/C and in some cases I can get only so far with him because I'm not there to see or feel what is going on.

Anyway, if I'm a betting man I'd plunk money on lower control arm bushings. We'll see what Frank says after he gets his mitts on it.

 

They may have never been tightened to 150 ft/lbs. In fact, I'd bet they weren't. I know I did not torque them back then because I didn't have a torque wrench in them days. I probably just wung it. No idea how I got to those back nuts. As it was, I needed a cheater bar this morning just to get it to 150. I'm not as burly as I once was and find I'm good to about 120/130 before I ask, "where's my cheater bar"?.

 

I like your explanation of the trials & tribulations of long distance diagnosing...but trust me, it's great to read & see these diagnoses & if they work or not. Thanks to all.

 

I could not agree more! Guys like Ralph and Hey You (others in the past) are a Godsend. They help on so many levels...part and tool selection, diagnosing, evaluating, providing direction, options, alternatives, warnings and alerts, etc... Their help is invaluable and downright crucial to getting these jobs done correctly and in a timely fashion. I have heeded their advice countless times and their cyber fingerprints are all over my truck. I'd thank them more but they probably get tired of it.

 

And I have a long way to go cuz when I'm done with my truck I have to start working on my wife's Jeep Compass. 135,000 miles and I haven't done crap to it other than conventional PM. How it's still on the road amazes me but I know I'm on borrowed time.

 

The Energy Suspension control arm bushing kit includes all bushings for the upper and lower arms. They don’t offer them separately. Also, one pair of the lower bushings come with shells, the other pair does not. Not sure which is front and which is rear. For the shell-less bushings you simply use the existing/oem shells in your LCAs.

Still don’t know if I’m replacing mine but I researched this and posting it for the record.

 

Just got back from the mechanic to check out that nasty creaking/vibration going on in the front end. He wasn't able to do a deep dive but he did give it a cursory look-over. His first prognosis was the upper control arm. He wrapped his hand around the pivot bolt and was feeling some slippage/vibration. He thought lubing around those bushings would be worth a try. I have an appt for Thursday so he can take a deeper dive. Or I may try and play with it in the meanwhile. I have no problem reaching those front pivot bolt nuts but I can't get to the rear ones. At least not from the top. I know I did it before so I'll just have to figure it out again or just say to hell with it and let the mechanic do it. No doubt, he has a better tool arsenal than I have. But his UCA idea is certainly reasonable. I would not be the least bit surprised this noise and vibration is emanating from that upper control arm mount. After all, I'm the idiot that replaced those bushings some 12 years ago. Probably never lubed them when I installed them. I do have a UCA bushing press kit. But then do I have to remove the bushings or just loosen the nuts and lube around the end? Advice welcomed.

 

You know, I'm looking at that upper control arm. It looks like the only things holding it on the truck are the upper ball joint and the two alignment nuts on the pivot bar (see 1995 illustration below, still waiting for my 1993 FSM). Remove those three things and the arm should come right out. No brake lines attached to the arm. The shock is bolted on that frame bracket and not the arm itself.. Not sure how those alignment bolts are secured once the nut is removed. Wouldn't want them falling in the abyss.

This looks pretty simple especially since I shouldn't have to fight the ball joint cuz that's just been changed out. A couple pops with a hammer should de-knuckle it I would think. Once off the truck it would be easy to remove/replace the upper control arm bushings. No? Would need an alignment unless I can matchmark stuff and get it back in the same position. I welcome advice, again.

 

Looks like the bolts have a collar that prevents them from spinning when you take of the nuts, but, of course, they will NOT prevent them from falling out, and disappearing, never to be seen again. At least, not until after the replacement bolts have been installed.

I'd say go for it. Get some of the graphite impregnated poly bushings, and tighten up the steering a wee bit as well. (do both sides..... )