Well, when you pull the spring up towards the frame, it'll self-depocket itself from the lower control arm. At that point I removed the inner LCA/frame bolts (already had the spindle out). It's only spring tension that holds it in the pocket after all.

But you have to remove the shock first to DO that.

Yah, didn't need the fork part. Did use an impact wrench to tighten and loosen it, though. (Loosened it and replaced the upper spring mounts while I was doing - truck was about 27, 28 years old at the time.)

I THINK I took the fingers off, fed them across, and then ran the bolt back into them; I'd have to try it again though to verify.

I reassembled; you may not have to, but then, if you don't, I'd take that as a sign that the spring is partially compressed.

If you're just doing the bushings, you may be able to remove the sway bar end links, then do it all with it still attached to the spindle. You'll probably want some way of holding the spindle/UCA up and out of the way, but the LCA, if I remember correctly, has enough room to spin around after the bolts holding it to the frame are removed. And if not, well, then it's time to get the ball joint out of the spindle; I'd make sure I have some new cotter pins though.

RwP

 

My only concern is getting that hook end inside of the spring. Looks too big to fit thru the bottom shock hole and the hooks are attached by a pressed pin (as opposed to nut n bolt) so disassembly/reassembly is impossible. Thinking the only way will be to somehow slip the hook portion thru the side of the coil. Guessing your 88 has a similar bottom shock hole and you somehow made it work...perhaps by the disassembly/reassembly method. It's worth a try.

 

Another question...do polyurethane bushings stand up to heat better than standard rubber bushings? I ask because I'm thinking those upper control arm bushings go bad because they're right next to the exhaust manifold, they get hot and cook the lube right out of them. This also suggests I need a really high temperature lube for those bushings. I'm not versed on compatible poly lubes that are high temp. Any suggestions?

 

I dunno, I've only got like 200,000 miles and six or eight years of life on mine. But so far they're holding up fine with PTFE spray.

RwP

 

Next time you put your face in your engine compartment take a look to see how close those UCA bushings are to the manifold. On my 5.2 Magnum, the right side rear bushing is literally 1" away. The right side front is 2" away. Probably 4 - 5" on both the left side bushings. I have extra ES grease coming...just in case (I hear they don't give you anymore than the bare minimum). But I will ALSO be using that PTFE spray (you talked me into it the first time you mentioned it...cheap enuf solution)! Is that liquid or dry PTFE you use?

Oh, and I read on the ES website that some of their black poly bushings are impregnated with graphite. They don't tell you which ones though.

 

Damn you stack up the miles!

 

Oh, I know how close they are.

I just haven't had a problem due to that.

RwP

 

As always, take with a grain of salt when it comes to You Tube.

 

It makes sense; PTFE is just about the slickest substance we have.

RwP

 

Well, that’s why I posted it. It does make at least a modicum of sense.

You missed my earlier question. Do you use liquid or dry PTFE?