When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
3530852[/url]]5.9 liters is 360CID. They use the same mounts, so it carries across.
Differences are almost all internal (bigger bore, longer stroke.)
The 340 can be thought of as a 360 block with a 318 crank (it's not actually, but that's pretty darn close.)
The 340 was never sold by Mopar with Magnum mounts; I understand Dart made a few 340 blocks with them, but I could be wrong on that.
RwP
My memory is fading but if I remember, the 340 was standard in the Dusters and perhaps others back in the 69s/70s. Maybe the Challenger and/or Cuda too. Most Mopars were 318 with upgrade options to 340 or 383.
3530857[/url]]In other notes -yep, the passenger side poly bushings are dying on my truck; the front one is definately no longer centered.
So I get to replace those also.
There is a TSB on the bushings failing due to heat ... but I can't find it now.
No big deal; but that does mean I'll order a set of control arms so I can get them powder coated.
RwP
I found a real cool video of an old timer refurbing some ‘64 control arms (GM I believe). I started watching it and about 2 minutes in I was hooked and had to watch the whole thing. Total perfection for what had to be for a show car. Beautiful work. Good vid production too. I’ll dig it up and post it.
Aren't the lower engine mounts just notched, so the bolt drops into it? (put it thru the upper mount, thread the nut on a little bit, lower the ending on to the mounts.)
My memory is fading but if I remember, the 340 was standard in the Dusters and perhaps others back in the 69s/70s. Maybe the Challenger and/or Cuda too. Most Mopars were 318 with upgrade options to 340 or 383.
Standard in the Duster was the Leaning Tower Of Power, the 225 Slant Six. Dad almost bought me a 1972 Duster with the LTOP, but opted instead on a new 1972 Biscayne for him and pass the 1967 Belair to me.
The 340 was an option.
Even the Cuda most years was available with the LTOP.
Ralph, do I assume correctly that Position #1 on your attached ES Installation diagram is the front-most mount? And it appears the Position #1 bushing set also differs from the 2 and 3 bushing sets.
3530919[/url]]Standard in the Duster was the Leaning Tower Of Power, the 225 Slant Six. Dad almost bought me a 1972 Duster with the LTOP, but opted instead on a new 1972 Biscayne for him and pass the 1967 Belair to me.
The 340 was an option.
Even the Cuda most years was available with the LTOP.
RwP
I just do not remember that 225. Seemed every mopar I ran into had an 8-cyl.
Ralph, do I assume correctly that Position #1 on your attached ES Installation diagram is the front-most mount? And it appears the Position #1 bushing set also differs from the 2 and 3 bushing sets.
Yep, set 1 is the core support bushing pair. Sets 2 and 3 are the actual cab mounts.
Core support lifts with the cab if the fenders et al are still bolted on.
Only the top is a different part number; it LOOKS different, so should be easy to track while installing.
Yep, set 1 is the core support bushing pair. Sets 2 and 3 are the actual cab mounts.
Core support lifts with the cab if the fenders et al are still bolted on.
Only the top is a different part number; it LOOKS different, so should be easy to track while installing.
RwP
OK, I see what you're saying now. This is starting to add up in my pea brain. I took another look. That core support (front-most) bushing actually sits under the fender. I guess I'll find out in time, but that cab has to go up a good 2" or more to slide the old bushing out and put the new one back in. Hard to believe that fender and anything attached to it (incl the core support) will flex/lift that much without ripping up stuff. OTOH, many people have done it so it's not like I'm navigating new territory. And this doesn't include anything going through the firewall. Hmmmm. Now I see why you only loosen (and not remove) the bolts on the other side...to keep them from coming out of alignment. Hard to get PB on those cage nuts. Can only shoot the stuff in the channel and hope some of it gets to the nuts. Guess I'll hit it with PB once in awhile till I'm ready to tackle the job. Today was the first dose. I have to work on the wife's Jeep starting later this weekend provided all the stuff shows up when they say..
I had the truck re-aligned the other day after re-bushing my control arms. A day or two ago I noticed the bellows were all cheesed out. Crumpled, twisted, wigged out. All the in/out turning pressure was on just a few points. So I got under there and found the alignment kid didn't bother to loosen the outside clamp to make his adjustments. He just turned the inner rod to get it aligned and just let the bellow do what it did. So I straightened them out today and they're back to being accordions again. Had to take the left tire off just to get to the clamp ears with a pair of pliers. They were at the absolute back of the tie rod.
This is why I don't like having others work on my truck.
Here is a pix of my LH motor mount. Not sure how well you can see it but there is a crack between the arrow head points. I don't know what the rubber geometry is and I have not noticed the engine dancing around or anything but I suspect this is not good. Could this be the source of my crunching and creaking when I turn in and out of parking spaces?? As good as anything I can think of but I think the cab mounts might be a better possibility.
