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3539382[/url]]Nope, in the engine compartment, where the intermediate shaft hits it.
I知 changing the oil tomorrow so I値l take a look. I知 struggling to remember what it looks like offhand. Unlike Ralph who knew every square inch of his truck, I always need to look at it.
I知 changing the oil tomorrow so I値l take a look. I知 struggling to remember what it looks like offhand. Unlike Ralph who knew every square inch of his truck, I always need to look at it.
BTW, I don稚 have dust shields for the rotors.
Yeah, I gotta go look too.
That means they are definitely not the problem then......
3539385]Well, the headache came in fast so I had to quit thinking. A couple of questions though. How are the caliper pins on the brakes moving? Are the pads wearing flat or at an angle. Are there any wear or grind marks on the inside of the wheels in front?
I had a '93 V-6 Sport I bought new. After a few years, I was getting an odd grinding noise when I braked. The pads were wearing at an angle and leaving grind marks on the inside of the wheel. New pads cured it and I quit using the truck to stop a large trailer without brakes.
I'm not saying this is your problem, just something to eliminate.
Hmmm, I値l have to look for grind marks on the inner wheel.
those being new brakes, the sliders were lubed last month with sil glyde. The previous pads on one side were definitely angled. I believe it was a lazy slide pin that was dry. They were very old brakes. These new ones haven稚 seen enuf action to know how they are wearing.
Update tomorrow.
I知 going to check for wheel wiggle too. With all new balljoints, tie rods, and wheel bearings there ought to be zero play in those wheels.
Hmmm, I値l have to look for grind marks on the inner wheel.
those being new brakes, the sliders were lubed last month with sil glyde. The previous pads on one side were definitely angled. I believe it was a lazy slide pin that was dry. They were very old brakes. These new ones haven稚 seen enuf action to know how they are wearing.
Update tomorrow.
I知 going to check for wheel wiggle too. With all new balljoints, tie rods, and wheel bearings there ought to be zero play in those wheels.
My pads wore at an angle twice before I realized the loading was wearing them at an angle. I stay up on my brakes as that is the most critical system on your vehicle. If you lubed the slider pins, then they shouldn't be popping.
Not seeing any grind marks. Also, took some snapshots of the steering column. Hard to get my face (or camera in there).
I like some of these "out of the box" ideas because I think this noise is non-conventional...something rare.
I think I may try two more things before pulling the trigger on a chassis ear. I'm going back to the tbugden theory...rechecking some of my work. Specifically, the shock and the axle nut. These are two things I performed not only recently but also the previous time some years ago. So perhaps my method is wrong, albeit consistent. One thing I am concluding here. The slap/clank/creak noise is coming from the left side and I believe somewhere in the vicinity of the wheel. I'm more sure of the left side than the wheel. I leaned my body over to the passenger side while driving and hit the brakes. The sound is definitely more defined when sitting in the driver's seat.
Shock
Perhaps I have a loose shock. I put in some KYB Gas-A-Justs and I never felt comfortable with how they tightened up on the top. I used an impact to try and squish the rubber bushing down to the same width of the washer but it never really did. Plenty more squishing is available. I got them as tight as I could before the shaft just spun around. Or, maybe I didn't put the bushings on correct. Those bushings have the keyed faced to fit in the mounting hole. Maybe I have it wrong and in combination of it possibly not being tight the top of the shock is shifting. I do see what looks like an outline to one side of the rubber bushing on top so that might be a sign. Grasping? Probably. But worth the time to remove the shock and check my work. Question: Can I replace that top shock nut with a regular nut? KYB uses those stop nuts and I think that prevents me from cinching them down.
Spindle Nut
Or maybe they're called axle nuts or adjusting nut. Whatever it's called, it's the nut behind the grease cap. I do not remember how I tightened that thing. Truthfully, I'm not sure I did it correctly. Did I use a torque spec? Did I overtighten? Undertighten? Don't remember. Not even sure if I torqued it, then loosened it to finger tight. No idea what I did. So maybe this is worth revisiting. Could this be the source of the noise? Highly doubt it, but I should go back and check my work anyway. So my question is, what is the correct procedure to tighten that adjusting nut behind the grease cap? What I think it is means nothing. I want to hear from a experienced mechanic to tell me just to be sure.
Not seeing any grind marks. Also, took some snapshots of the steering column. Hard to get my face (or camera in there).
I like some of these "out of the box" ideas because I think this noise is non-conventional...something rare.
I think I may try two more things before pulling the trigger on a chassis ear. I'm going back to the tbugden theory...rechecking some of my work. Specifically, the shock and the axle nut. These are two things I performed not only recently but also the previous time some years ago. So perhaps my method is wrong, albeit consistent. One thing I am concluding here. The slap/clank/creak noise is coming from the left side and I believe somewhere in the vicinity of the wheel. I'm more sure of the left side than the wheel. I leaned my body over to the passenger side while driving and hit the brakes. The sound is definitely more defined when sitting in the driver's seat.
Shock
Perhaps I have a loose shock. I put in some KYB Gas-A-Justs and I never felt comfortable with how they tightened up on the top. I used an impact to try and squish the rubber bushing down to the same width of the washer but it never really did. Plenty more squishing is available. I got them as tight as I could before the shaft just spun around. Or, maybe I didn't put the bushings on correct. Those bushings have the keyed faced to fit in the mounting hole. Maybe I have it wrong and in combination of it possibly not being tight the top of the shock is shifting. I do see what looks like an outline to one side of the rubber bushing on top so that might be a sign. Grasping? Probably. But worth the time to remove the shock and check my work. Question: Can I replace that top shock nut with a regular nut? KYB uses those stop nuts and I think that prevents me from cinching them down.
Spindle Nut
Or maybe they're called axle nuts or adjusting nut. Whatever it's called, it's the nut behind the grease cap. I do not remember how I tightened that thing. Truthfully, I'm not sure I did it correctly. Did I use a torque spec? Did I overtighten? Undertighten? Don't remember. Not even sure if I torqued it, then loosened it to finger tight. No idea what I did. So maybe this is worth revisiting. Could this be the source of the noise? Highly doubt it, but I should go back and check my work anyway. So my question is, what is the correct procedure to tighten that adjusting nut behind the grease cap? What I think it is means nothing. I want to hear from a experienced mechanic to tell me just to be sure.
Steering column photos (doesn't show much):
Generally, the top bushing should squish out (<---fancy technical term) to the width of the upper washer. There should be a flat end on top of the shock threaded rod. You hold that with a small flat crescent wrench while you tighten with either an open end or ratcheting closed end wrench. A shifting shock would do what you say is happening. See if you can take a photo of the top of the shock absorber. As for a regular nut in place of the one sent, if there is enough room on the thread for two nuts, just use two and double nut it. Tighten it down, then tighten the second one onto it.
Generally, the top bushing should squish out (<---fancy technical term) to the width of the upper washer. There should be a flat end on top of the shock threaded rod. You hold that with a small flat crescent wrench while you tighten with either an open end or ratcheting closed end wrench. A shifting shock would do what you say is happening. See if you can take a photo of the top of the shock absorber. As for a regular nut in place of the one sent, if there is enough room on the thread for two nuts, just use two and double nut it. Tighten it down, then tighten the second one onto it.
The problem I have is there is a step down to get to that top nut. The upper control arm gets in the way (elevation wise) to get a regular wrench on it. I have a few offset box wrenches but none that are the right size. I tried those special tools that is a socket in a socket made for tightening top nuts on shocks. One holds the double D shaft the other goes around the nut. Again, wrong sizes. KYB uses some squirrelly sizes. Think I値l bite the bullet and just buy the right offset wrench. Was thinking I could drive a regular nut further down than their stop nut. Yes, I壇 have to double nut it. It痴 a 3/8 nut but I have only coarser threads so I壇 have to get some nuts. Can稚 win jury rigging this thing.
03-10-2022, 08:12 PM
A couple of questions though. How are the caliper pins on the brakes moving? Are the pads wearing flat or at an angle. Are there any wear or grind marks on the inside of the wheels in front?
